HarleyTechTalk

TO All  HTT Mod's and forum royalty:
  Let me know it you want this type of thread run in your Forum. If you decide to allow it I ask that you please advise on best practices, proper location and the best way to up load the photos. I am intending to run a continuous thread while building this Twin Cam. Maybe I will make additions as often as 1 times a day or in some instances 1-2 times per week.

I'm looking forward to your build an how its done. Its a twin cam...put it in a twin cam section.

Loading photos!!!
In my first attempt to get the photos uploaded, I ran into file size issues. Does any one have any tips on reducing the file size. Is there and app that will trim them down to an acceptable size, or do I make adjustment to my camera. FYI, This is my first Digital camera, a week old and my first go-round with uploading pics to this site
Any constructive help please?

I tuned into the stickie on uploading . Now to go out there and find out what the photo-bucket thing is, and what hoops to jump thru there.

It easy, just sign up for photo bucket, put your pix on there, and then post the link for us to see them.

I use to be able to insert a link to the address of a photo of mine in flickr and it would show up fine.  Now all I get is the blue box.  Anyone know why?

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,157.0.html

Maybe my problem is that when I copy the address from flickr it doesn't have anything like .jpg at the end.  Example this is the address I get when I right click on the picture and choose copy address:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/#

so when I insert this address I just get the blue box.  I use to be able to do it.  I read the link Max, I don't see how to fix it.  The link to the ofopos thread doesn't go anywhere anymore.

Quote from: ThumperDeuce on October 26, 2013, 09:48:32 PM
Maybe my problem is that when I copy the address from flickr it doesn't have anything like .jpg at the end.  Example this is the address I get when I right click on the picture and choose copy address:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/#

so when I insert this address I just get the blue box.  I use to be able to do it.  I read the link Max, I don't see how to fix it.  The link to the ofopos thread doesn't go anywhere anymore.

I just clicked your link and got a picture of two old guys hanging out in a garage.

Quote from: truck on October 27, 2013, 04:14:15 AM

Quote from: ThumperDeuce on October 26, 2013, 09:48:32 PM
Maybe my problem is that when I copy the address from flickr it doesn't have anything like .jpg at the end.  Example this is the address I get when I right click on the picture and choose copy address:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/#

so when I insert this address I just get the blue box.  I use to be able to do it.  I read the link Max, I don't see how to fix it.  The link to the ofopos thread doesn't go anywhere anymore.

I just clicked your link and got a picture of two old guys hanging out in a garage.

I clicked on the link and got to topless gals in a hot tub   

I can supply the link as shown and you can follow it ok ( that's a picture of me and Otto ).  If I try to embed it so that it shows up in the thread, I just get a blue box with a question mark.  Like I said it use to work and I am guessing that the address use to have something like a .jpg on the end and now it doesn't?

Quote from: ThumperDeuce on October 26, 2013, 09:48:32 PM
Maybe my problem is that when I copy the address from flickr it doesn't have anything like .jpg at the end.  Example this is the address I get when I right click on the picture and choose copy address:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39154675@N07/3598751495/#

so when I insert this address I just get the blue box.  I use to be able to do it.  I read the link Max, I don't see how to fix it.  The link to the ofopos thread doesn't go anywhere anymore.

Looks like you can't use flicker as a picture host..

QuoteWhere is the HTML code and photo file link?

The HTML code to embed a photo in a web page that you used to find on the All Sizes page is now only in the Share menu on the photo, to the left of the More menu. We now also include BBCode! (standard message board code)

There are a few cases where the code may not be available: 1) If the photo is restricted. 2) If that person has turned off "Share this" or access to original files.

The direct link to a photo file is no longer shown on the page. Per the Flickr Community Guidelines "pages on other websites that display content hosted on flickr.com must provide a link from each photo or video back to its page on Flickr." Linking directly to the photo file doesn't do this.

Permalink | Top

Max

Ok thanks for the input, I guess you'll just have to follow the link if your interested in seeing any pictures I post.

When I started this thread I had envisioned a much simpler task. After multiple failures using 3 different hosts, I really don't have any interest in messing around on a computer.
   As it turns out my interest lies in the work that I have in the garage, completing my engine and getting it in the bike and off to a tuner. I will continue to take pictures several times a day and see what can be done about loading the highlights after the bike is up.

  There are already over 300 views so you have an interested audience. Not many 105's around to check out so stay with us.

   cling

Ok, the cases are married now, so I'll give 'em tomato set up a bit and take another swing at the thread.
Later tonight, I just stopped for grub. I can prep the primary yet tonight.

Square one;
Checking stack heights. I can get an indication of how many cone spacers to have on hand, and in what direction from the factory set-up. The only true way to go is rattled up tight a time or two in the cups and on the sprocket shaft. Maybe I can get lucky and not need all dozen or so spacers on account.


After a close inspection of all surfaces, threads and condition I employed a 1" X 1" square stone to bring down any risers left from handling. These are completely de-burred and as it turns out they are dishwasher safe


Thanks to Summit Racing Prod and Wiseco I found and alternate wrist pin and I was able to get within 8 grams total of the bob weight the flywheel shop balanced the crank assembly. Scott says that "I'm golden with my piston, pin and ring set in this weight range"


I do like the way these cleaned up. I will spray some love from a H-D can of silver later on, before I slide it into the frame.

A bit of press work to start the build. I have set up hundreds of opposing taper roller sets in my carreer, from 43" dia 4 cone and cup sets across a 60" span all the down to .677od cup super high speed ceramic sets running 30k-35k rpms. With a dozen big twin lower ends under my belt I do not adhere to factory specs here. I will not argue the point, it's my money. Follow your bible and heart.
Last night I compared stack height with the old sets of timkens and found that both read about .003" higher than old. I let my experience guide me to place the factory spacer between the cones and rattled it up 3 times to 150 pound feet, although I knew form the back pressure from the hand pump that I had both cups in home position inside of the case half.
NOTE get your self in tune with how little pressure it takes to move the flywheels around upon the crank pin as a fulcrum. I always use an adjustable parallel between the wheels opposite the pin to avoid disappointment down the road. You can use a close fitting 1/2" bolt with a heavy flange nut to bridge the open space opposite the rod pin. I am not saying that you will spoil a well made and welded flywheel assembly, but why take chances here?
Here I have checked the end play at "nut". too good to be true?



To be certain I pressed the outside cone off and went 2 sizes more for the cone spacer and ratteled it up again, for a total of .004" plus "nut". As it turns out the only mistake I made today was thinking that I was wrong 20 minutes ago...... I tore it down and went back to the original spacer and TIR @  "nut". I say good enough.



Now the right side get some attention. Ready for three. The bible wants you to press the pinion side roller in from the cam side with the numbers up.

With Photobucket, you can use the image link like this..

http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx329/SE_Road_King/Setting%20up%20the%20end%20play/IMG_0041_zpse3bfaf10.jpg

The easiest way is to start a reply and click on this button where the arrow is and you will see some text on the box.

[attach=1]

copy your link to the picture and paste into the middle between the ][

[attach=0]

And you will get this.



Max


[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

Thank you, Sir.

Max   

or paste your link to the picture




select/highlight the link




then enclose it in img tags by hitting the Image Button




and you will get this.

Ok FSG, using you method
then I should be able to edit/modify my 2 posts where only links are displayed.

It actually took more work than that, but they are re-published with pictorials.

Thank you as well Sir.

   When you go back to edit/modify you have the URL [ url][/url ] Tags to deal with, but no biggie as you found out.

Some common bolts and nuts can save your surfaces and protect the dowels from destruction. I use 5 on each side. And two under the cam case provides a leg to keep the half upright

These little beggers are the reason the H_D switched from the 10 micron to the 5 micron. The only real difference that this move made is that it turned a $12.95 filter into a $15.95 one. And I think the dealerships also quit reporting the jets as being the root cause for cylinder bore and heat related failures. Go study how filters collect particles and the randomness of it all, and you may call it BS too.