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shifter lever

Started by bikerbill48, May 05, 2014, 07:40:58 AM

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bikerbill48

Morning everyone, it's been awhile. I have a question, my shifter lever on the trans (the one from the rod)(in between the trans & prinary case) any way it's way loose. I tried tightening the pinch bolt (it was tight) I plan to replace the lever, but the question is, is this a common problem? Also will I have to replace the shaft (inside the trans) The bike is a 2011 FLHTP 6speed with 15,000 miles

Coyote

Yes it is common if they aren't kept tight. Usually the arm wears and not the shaft so your shaft should be OK.

Ohio HD

Post #1...   

Here's a good solution for the loose shifter. Give this a look.

http://betterlever.com/index.php

les

Hey, before you take things apart, how about trying one of those "I've got nothing to loose" attempts.  Take the bolt out and put some assembly lube under the crown of the bolt head.  Also, some blue loctite on the threads.  See if you can get it tight enough with this extra lubrication.  Sometimes the friction binds the bolt and won't let it get extra tight.  If this does not work...then take apart and replace parts.

Gderkac2

We had this problem on the road last year. Take out the allen bolt and replace it with a Grade 8 bolt. You will be able to tighten it up, we were able to cure our Road Trip problem.

dakota224

You don't need the better lever, your shift lever will come right off the shaft, & then just install a NEW shift lever.. easy as pie.

seehogs

+1 for the new hex grade 8 bolt. Put a washer under it and tighten it up
I have done 5 or so like this. 2008 and up had more problems than earlier twincams.
Different/cheaper vender maybe?

02 Ultra

Les has the answer. Try it.
02 Ultra Classic mild 95"

les

The lubrication method (works sometime...sometime not) can be done in the field.  Just pull your dipstick and apply some engine oil under the bolt head crown.  While not quite as good as assembly lube for this application, it does enable you to get that thing tighter than if dry.

Again, it's a nothing-to-loose procedure. 

PoorUB

Quote from: seehogs on May 05, 2014, 03:40:45 PM
I have done 5 or so like this. 2008 and up had more problems than earlier twincams.


I donno about that! I had an '05 and everyone was whining about the shift levers working loose back then. I don't hear much about it any more. Maybe we all just got used to it, because ya know, "They all do it!"
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

02 Ultra

I fixed mine and two others using Les's method. I also mark the head with a sharpie so I can keep an eye of it.
 
02 Ultra Classic mild 95"

klammer76

Out of curiosity, why does the grade 8 hex head tighten better than the socket head? Is the socket head bolt softer and do some strip (round out) the socket portion? Have also heard about using a longer bolt with a nut on the bottom but never tried it. I'm currently replacing my worn shift lever on my 2002 FLHTC, the new one I got does look cheaper.

vtwinjim

I've removed the bolt and run a tap down the threads and then used a new bolt.

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: 02 Ultra on May 05, 2014, 06:40:47 PM
I fixed mine and two others using Les's method. I also mark the head with a sharpie so I can keep an eye of it.


FWIW,, The bolt probably won't turn and the arm can still come loose.. The problem is that the arm metal is soft and the fit ain't perfect to start. As soon as it comes loose the splines get eaten in the arm.. You need to re-tighten periodically until the splines on the arm have fully grabbed the splines on the shaft..  Baggers have this the worse since the shift arm is mounted on the primary which causes a rocking motion back to the tranny arm..

All you really need to do is get it tight and from the start which is usually the first few thousand miles.. Once fully seated, there usually isn't much of an issue.. Still it's one of those critical fasteners that needs checking..

Max

HARRLY

Had this same issue on my 99 RK. Bolt would not tighten any further. It turned out the bolt was actually bottoming out in the shifter arm and could not tighten any further. I carefully ground down some of the bolt length and it has been tight for many years so far.  Worth a shot. Good luck.

klammer76

Quote from: Max Headflow on May 05, 2014, 10:36:21 PM
Quote from: 02 Ultra on May 05, 2014, 06:40:47 PM
I fixed mine and two others using Les's method. I also mark the head with a sharpie so I can keep an eye of it.


FWIW,, The bolt probably won't turn and the arm can still come loose.. The problem is that the arm metal is soft and the fit ain't perfect to start. As soon as it comes loose the splines get eaten in the arm.. You need to re-tighten periodically until the splines on the arm have fully grabbed the splines on the shaft..  Baggers have this the worse since the shift arm is mounted on the primary which causes a rocking motion back to the tranny arm..

All you really need to do is get it tight and from the start which is usually the first few thousand miles.. Once fully seated, there usually isn't much of an issue.. Still it's one of those critical fasteners that needs checking..

Max

Max,

Do you use the socket head or a hex bolt and do you torque it or just get it as tight as you can initially?

Klammer

fourthgear

I replaced the arm & used the grade 8 bolt on my 03 & it loosened up in about a week , used a 1/2" breaker bar to get a little more leverage on the bolt (carefully ) & its been tight for a year now . 

joearizona

If you want to repair it. don't put a new one on just repair it. Remove the inner primary. drill & tap for two 8-32 set screw you can see in the picture. then take the leaver off clean the spline & the leaver with brake cleaner. reinstall with blue lock tite. & install the set screws, tighten the main bolt & it will never loosen again. I have done it to my 05 ultra & just did it on a 09 Ultra. 

[attachment removed after 60 days by system]

Ohio HD

Get rid of your heel shifter, and you probably won't have issues again.....      :potstir:

I take them off the bikes as soon as I get them.

klammer76

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 06, 2014, 05:33:41 AM
Get rid of your heel shifter, and you probably won't have issues again.....      :potstir:

I take them off the bikes as soon as I get them.

:agree: me too. Never cared for them.

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: klammer76 on May 06, 2014, 03:45:50 AM

Max,

Do you use the socket head or a hex bolt and do you torque it or just get it as tight as you can initially?

Klammer

I typically start with the stock allen.. If I can't get it tight enough, I'll throw an AN washer under the head. Pull the bolt and make sure it's straight. If bent, replace with a new one.. The bolts will bend some as the pinch section tightens up.. If allowed to run loose there will be more pinch on the arm and bent bolt may fight the final torque because it needs to bend a different way.

Quote from: Ohio HD on May 06, 2014, 05:33:41 AM
Get rid of your heel shifter, and you probably won't have issues again.....      :potstir:

I take them off the bikes as soon as I get them.

Funny you should say that.. I think that removing the rear shifter makes the bouncing on the external shift mechanism worse.. There is more of a "moment" around the front shaft with only one lever than both since the front of the drive train bounces around at idle.  Still I pull the back one off as I don't care for it either.

Shift levers coming loose on splines is nothing new.. Seen it on a ton of different bikes..

Max

Ohio HD

Quote from: Max Headflow on May 06, 2014, 07:39:43 AM
Funny you should say that.. I think that removing the rear shifter makes the bouncing on the external shift mechanism worse.. There is more of a "moment" around the front shaft with only one lever than both since the front of the drive train bounces around at idle.  Still I pull the back one off as I don't care for it either.

Shift levers coming loose on splines is nothing new.. Seen it on a ton of different bikes..

Max

That's true, mostly with motocross bikes, heavy boots stomping shifters. 

Hossamania

I think the positive stop used for 1st gear and 5th gear contribute to the problem. Putting a heavy boot on first gear double checking gear selection at stoplights, etc. It never seemed to be an issue before on the evos without the stop.
If you see someone crying,
ask if it's because of their haircut

bikerbill48

thanks guys for all the in-put, I think a grade 8 bolt would do the trick but in the past, by the time i discovered the loose lever, the shaft had enough ware on it I needed a new shaft, not going to chance it. I like the thought of the new type lever, a bit pricey but a better design. It's in the mail.. Thanks again.