HarleyTechTalk

I have read the many threads on this subject, but can't solve my problem. 2005 ultra.  Put in a new clutch cable last year and have had this problem since.  Old cable was too stiff...rather than lube I replaced it.  The new cable was same length. 

I installed as per SM and adjusted as per SM.  Also tried a few other methods for adjustment and always get this problem...which is.....once adjusted at the clutch....when I go to take the slack out at the cable adjustment screw.....I have to turn until it is basically on the last threat.....one more turn and the adjustment screw will separate.......I hope this makes sense......Is this normal, Is it ok.....or should I be adjusting something.  Just checked the ramp and all 3 balls are seated properly.   I have both sides open right now.  Thanks..>TBELL

Are you making your base adjustment at the pressure plate behind the Derby cover first with the cable fully collapsed?

QuoteThe new cable was same length. 

You perhaps are referring to the outer sheath when you say the same length.

What about the inner cable, obviously it was longer.

What brand of cable have you used?

Yes...adjustment first at clutch behind derby.

It was a harley replacement cable.

Tbell

The only thing I can think of then is what FSG said that the inner cable is longer then the one that came out of the bike.

QuoteIt was a harley replacement cable.

OK, what Part Number?

have to dig up part number......I will look and post it

Try this: Get slack in your cable at the cable adjusting area. So the handle will flop around. Now go to the adjusting screw at the clutch. Screw that screw in until it touches. Now keep screwing it in while watching your clutch HANDLE. You should see the slack at the handle disappear as you screw in the clutch adjusting screw. The handle will pull up against the handle stop for the clutch. When the handle touches the stop put more slack in your cable and repeat the procedure. Do this a couple of times and you will eventually get the cable adjuster back in the middle of the adjusting threads.

  FSG - might he be having ramp problems which is causing his clutch pushrod adjustment to appear correct when it's not. A few years ago I had a ramp problem and couldn't for the life of me get the clutch cable and clutch pushrod adjusted correctly. Did some tinkering with the ramp with a thin metal rod (I think I moved it cause it made a noise) and then everything adjusted as normal. I'm asking you FSG cause you're waaaaaay more knowledgeable than I. Just a thought.......

I'm thinking cable because HD changed the trannie end of the cable for the 6 speeds and everyone else followed suit.  To me the inners are always too long and the adjustable portion too short, if they made them the opposite then they're be no problem getting the top end into the lever and adjusting all the slack out.

bigfoot5x  has most of the curing procedure.

If it's the ramps and not the cable then slack the cable at the adjuster. Take a peek through the Trannie Oil Fill hole, put a screw driver or other in there and push the inner ramp into it's home rearward position.

check this => http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,70228.msg762167.html#msg762167


Now screw the screw the clutch adjusting screw in till you feel it touching the ramp, now screw it in further until you see the clutch plates separating.  At this point the ramps most certainly will be in their home position with the balls in the valleys.

Now adjust the cable adjuster to take the slack out of the cable, leaving 1/32" to 1/6" at the perch. 

Operate the clutch lever, yes it will feel odd because the clutch adjusting screw is in too far, but ignore that. 

Where is the cable adjuster now set, is there further adjustment available or have you run out of adjustment well before this point?

If the cable adjuster is OK then just back off the clutch adjusting screw then give it the little in out routine until you get it to 1/4 to 1/2 turn out from just touching.

How is it now?   

FSG....Part Number 38667-00  .  I checked the balls and ramps and all is fine.

Bigfoot...

I did as per your instructions and I think it has improved. 

Tbell

The instructions for adjusting the clutch states to screw in the screw until it just touches the rod and then back off the adjuster screw. I think what happens is that as we adjust the clutch through the years we gradually keep backing the screw off enough that the rod is moved to the clutch side of the bike. I've also seen this when people change the cable or clutch spring. We are creating our own problem when we disassemble the parts and don't realize it. I was really surprised the first time I adjusted the clutch on my brand new 2013 StreetGlide. It came from the factory with very little cable adjustment available. I screwed in the clutch screw until my cable adjuster was centered.

Quote from: bigfoot5x on June 27, 2014, 07:34:17 AM
The instructions for adjusting the clutch states to screw in the screw until it just touches the rod and then back off the adjuster screw. I think what happens is that as we adjust the clutch through the years we gradually keep backing the screw off enough that the rod is moved to the clutch side of the bike. I've also seen this when people change the cable or clutch spring. We are creating our own problem when we disassemble the parts and don't realize it. I was really surprised the first time I adjusted the clutch on my brand new 2013 StreetGlide. It came from the factory with very little cable adjustment available. I screwed in the clutch screw until my cable adjuster was centered.

You are forgetting the most import part before messing with the center adjuster.. You need to slack the clutch cable!!  and it needs to be sufficient.. If you don''t it will get screwed up like you say..


Here is the way I adjust the cables.. Gave this to Durwood..


1. I loosen the clutch cable about 1/4 to 1/2 inch slack.. Mainly it depends is how hard access is to the cable adjuster.

2. I loosen the clutch adjuster nut and screw in until tight as above no need to lock the nut.

3. I try the lever. No need to move it in to the grip but I watch the pressure plate comes off the clutch stack.

4. If lever doesn't have any play, I loosen the cable adjuster till there is slack in the cable and screw in the adjuster til it's tight.. If the lever has play go to 6

5. Recheck the lever, no play back to 4.

6. back the nut off 1/2 to 1 turn.. Probably do 3/4 the most, lock the nut.

7. set the cable slack, lock the cable nut..  Slack depends on which bike as some are set looser/tighter than others..


Max

QuoteFSG....Part Number 38667-00

Correct.

Some reading on Clutch Cables

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,32868.msg334842.html#msg334842

If you get the opportunity/time check your cable against the Clutch Cable Chart

Sounds like he got a cable for a 6 speed bike.  The free length is longer on a a cable for  a 6 speed bike.

Quote from: Tbell1961 on June 26, 2014, 11:11:05 AM
I have read the many threads on this subject, but can't solve my problem. 2005 ultra.  Put in a new clutch cable last year and have had this problem since.  Old cable was too stiff...rather than lube I replaced it.  The new cable was same length. 

I installed as per SM and adjusted as per SM.  Also tried a few other methods for adjustment and always get this problem...which is.....once adjusted at the clutch....when I go to take the slack out at the cable adjustment screw.....I have to turn until it is basically on the last threat.....one more turn and the adjustment screw will separate.......I hope this makes sense......Is this normal, Is it ok.....or should I be adjusting something.  Just checked the ramp and all 3 balls are seated properly.   I have both sides open right now.  Thanks..>TBELL

I had the same problem with the clutch cable on my 2010 RKC.  Stock Harley clutch cable,  adjusted all the way out (maybe one thread left on the adjuster) and still couldn't get all the slack out of the lever.  I used a Barnett clutch cable spacer to resolve the issue.  A number of people have had this issue (with both stock and aftermarket cables) since Harley changed the cable.

Barnett P/N is 111-80-28619 (2 spacers per pack).  They charged me $10 for the spacers, and another $10 for shipping, but it fixes the problem and I didn't have to replace the cable.

Just wanted to finalize this post.  I hate it when someone posts and problem and then never lets us know how things worked out.  Well, Bohnhead1 hit the nail on the head.  Although the part numbers says it was the correct cable, they gave me a 6 speed one which is and inch plus longer.  After tearing my hair out, I took the cable out and compared it with a known cable for my bike, low and behold it was too long.  Replaced with a new, correct model and everything works perfect. Adjusted as it should be.  Now the fight comes with the dealer to get reimbursed for their mistake.  I have the receipt showing the number there were supposed to give me.  Will see how it goes.  Thanks to everyone who offered advise.

Tbell

My thinking: IF you know that dealer (or not) they should have or Will exchanged you out at no $$$ for the correct one..

Now if you would Please give that answer After you prevail and then it is a time for a happier Closing...

Good cool heads work wonders.

Thanks for com'n bace to tell...

signed....BUBBIE

The dealer I bought the first cable from was a distance away, so I got the correct one from a local independent.  All I really want from the dealer is a credit and I'll buy some oil and a filter. I will let you know how it works out.

tbell