HarleyTechTalk

Time to replace bearings and cups on the '94 Dresser. What's best practice to remove the races without butchering the mag wheel hubs?
Thanks for suggestions.
Cheers Flhfxd

The proper tool is a blind hole bearing puller, like shown in the attached link. In the US, some auto parts stores loan tools & may have what you need.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blind-Hole-9pc-Slide-Hammer-Pilot-Bearing-Puller-Internal-Extractor-Removal-Kit-/131250178161?hash=item1e8f1ec871&item=131250178161&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

The Jims tools race driver/remover is what I use.

JB

If your a good welder run a bead around the cup, let it cool, the weld will shrink the cup and it'll come out by hand if not just fall out.

I dont have a welder.........yet. I think Canadian Tire lends out some tools but they are usually more than well worn. Might have to buy a bearing puller.
Cheers, Flhfxd.

Obviously Ive never done one before, but Im guessing that once the bearing and spacer is removed theres just enough of a lip to get a grip on with the puller and then easily tap it out?
Can you tap it out with a hammer and drift?  I would rather not have to buy a single use tool.
Cheers, Flhfxd.

never had one easily tap out.  Buy the Jims bearing race remover tool.  You'll be glad you did.  or take it to an indy shop and have them do it. Don't forget to check wheel end play when done.

or take it to a friend that has a welder

I have done mine twice I just take it to a shop or dealer and have them do it, only charged me $20. I grease and put in bearings and seals.

Quote from: Flhfxd on July 24, 2014, 01:39:27 PM
I dont have a welder.........yet. I think Canadian Tire lends out some tools but they are usually more than well worn. Might have to buy a bearing puller.
Cheers, Flhfxd.

hey Flhfxd, Have you Gotten this Done yet? IF Not, Until VERY Recently, I'd done Quite a few, (ALL of) them By the "Tap Out" Method, BUTT, I Just Bought a Pit Posse Bearing Tools, and IF You want, I'll Box it all up, & Send it to you to Borrow for This, and All You have to do is Pay Postage/Shipping..... MIGHT Be Better off doing a Fed-Ex, Purcolator, or One of those Companies, as I Have The WORST Luck with Our Postal Service here, and I Won't even Get in to it right now.
Heading out to tie up any lose ends for my New Grandsons Baptism tomorrow, so, send me a P.M. or Reply here, and I'll Get to it As Soon as I can. Might, (Likely) be MUCH Later today though...... Sorry.
Let Me Know Sir.

local harley shop does mine w/no charge

My local Harley shop doesn't know what an EVO is. And I wouldn't be surprised if they start charging cover just to go in. I'm not interested in asking them for anything.
Very generous offer Hogman. Pm on the way.
Cheers Flhfxd.

Hogman, pm sent.
Thanks
Flhfxd

FWIW, On the wheels I've seen, you can walk the inner race out if you have a long punch with sharp edges.. You can get enough of the edge of the race to move it.. Be careful as the race comes out as it can cock and stick.. Also the punch can ding the hole where the race runs if not careful..

Max

Quote from: Max Headflow on July 26, 2014, 09:32:25 AM
FWIW, On the wheels I've seen, you can walk the inner race out if you have a long punch with sharp edges.. You can get enough of the edge of the race to move it.. Be careful as the race comes out as it can cock and stick.. Also the punch can ding the hole where the race runs if not careful..

Max

That's Exactly how I've Always done them Bruce, AND Like You Say, BE CAREFUL!

Flhfxdtchfxstdevo,    A Reply was Sent.  (I Know, I Just Couldn't remember ALL Your Letters, so I "Winged" it!) LOL OK, T T Y L

 Hogman, I just read ur pm reply and man I'm laughin. I understand that kind of busy! We could trade spaces and neither one of us would come out ahead! I just ordered my parts this mornin. So I won't even get them for a week or so. ain't in any kind of great big hurry.  Cheers brother. Good luck with all the arrangements. BTW, beers on me.
Cheers, Flhfxd.

Quote from: FSG on July 24, 2014, 01:19:55 PM
If your a good welder run a bead around the cup, let it cool, the weld will shrink the cup and it'll come out by hand if not just fall out.

I understand the logic behind this. However I would be more concerned with weld spatter and damage from the red hot race and the aluminum..

Quote from: Breeze on July 24, 2014, 05:44:10 AM
The proper tool is a blind hole bearing puller, like shown in the attached link. In the US, some auto parts stores loan tools & may have what you need.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blind-Hole-9pc-Slide-Hammer-Pilot-Bearing-Puller-Internal-Extractor-Removal-Kit-/131250178161?hash=item1e8f1ec871&item=131250178161&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

I have a blind bearing remover on a slide hammer and it don't work. I had to buy the George tool for it.

Quote from: N-gin on July 26, 2014, 05:06:21 PM

Quote from: FSG on July 24, 2014, 01:19:55 PM
If your a good welder run a bead around the cup, let it cool, the weld will shrink the cup and it'll come out by hand if not just fall out.

I understand the logic behind this. However I would be more concerned with weld spatter and damage from the red hot race and the aluminum..

Done a bunch like this.  If you use a MIG, you won't get splatter out of the hole(at least I never did).  You wait for the race to cool a little,so it's not red hot, and then if it doesn't fall right out, you can hook the little ledge with a sharp screwdriver and tap it right out.  I've got one set of wheels that's been done twice since my wife owned the bike.

 I have used this method as well on semi axles, but they are cast housings. Just was worried about the aluminum.

Quote from: N-gin on July 26, 2014, 05:06:21 PM

Quote from: FSG on July 24, 2014, 01:19:55 PM
If your a good welder run a bead around the cup, let it cool, the weld will shrink the cup and it'll come out by hand if not just fall out.

I understand the logic behind this. However I would be more concerned with weld spatter and damage from the red hot race and the aluminum..

The ol' weld bead works great.  I won a bet with this method when some machinists back in the Navy were trying to cut a race out of a  50 HP electric motor end support.  They worked all day and I did it in 5 minutes and it was free Spanish beer for me. 

The wonderful thing about aluminum is it that it is such a great heat sink.  The heat of welding is rapidly dispersed throughout the wheel and the temperature rise is barely noticeable within the wheel.  Also, due to the dissimilar metals, the steel spatter just wipes off the aluminum wheel with a finger (if someone is a bad enough welder to cause it to stick in the first place). 

In a past life I was a welder by trade so, having it in my shop, I actually use a TIG torch and just walk a "bead" around the inside of the race with no filler metal.  Extremely controllable and no chance of spatter.  I do neck races, along with any other races that may walk into my garage, this way also.

I cannot stand having to buy, or build, a single use type tool so I avoid it whenever possible.

 I tack weld a flat washer to the race then tap out from other side.
98Fxd

Quote from: 98FXD on July 30, 2014, 01:58:18 PM
I tack weld a flat washer to the race then tap out from other side.
98Fxd
[/quote/]

Nice