Leaking oil from engine into primary case

Started by guys, January 08, 2025, 02:38:31 PM

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guys

Apologies for incorrect formatting, first post here.
Pretty much what the title says, doing a stator change and engine oil has now started to quite quickly drip through the stator and into the primary case, and thus all over my floor.
Bike is a 1994 Sportster XLH1200
Steps I took to get here:
1. Removed primary case cover
2. Removed pressure plate
3. HEATED UP FRONT BOLT WITH A MAPP GAS TORCH. <--perhaps what caused this issue
4. Removed both bolts, and then the magnet and clutch assembly as one unit.
I am following this video as a step-by-step tutorial. It seems pretty comprehensive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGbGPiRuMj0&t=2708s
To get to the point, did I screw up? How badly? Is there a seal in there I need to replace? If so, is it a pain?

guys

#1
Good god just let me attach an image please


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Ohio HD

First of all, how long has the oil been dripping? Keeping in mind these are dry sump motors, there is only what ever amount of oil that was splashed against the rear side of the seal to leak when sitting idle. But yes, there is a seal there, it could be bad, and the spacer that the seal rides around may also need to be replaced. I indicated the spacer and seal location in your image below.

Also, list what year and model Sportster or motor when asking for help. It's easier for members to help if they have more info.


thumpr54

I had output shaft seal failure on my 09 FLHR Road King....had maybe 40k on it.....first indication of problem was that the clutch wouldn't work right....went to take it apart and way too much oil in the primary....replacing the seal indicated cured my problem...
growing old is mandatory-growing up is optional
355 AMS(TAC)DMAFB 73-76 VFW6774

guys

I apologize for not listing the model and year, the website wiped my original post because I pasted an image and then tried to post, so I hastily retyped it and that appears the be the information I missed.
it is a 1994 Sporster XLH1200.
It has been dripping for about 2 or 3 days. (I am a slow worker and do this in my spare time)

Tacocaster

#5
To stop the mess, drain your motor oil until you replace the Oil Seal.
I'm sure Ohio has you pointed in the right direction suggesting the Oil Seal has been compromised.
Part # 35151-74A.
You Tube has a step-by step on repair but hopefully you have a Service Manual to reference.
https://youtu.be/Tb_CLrxc8d0?si=43Hd-hmiG9silbxr
We're all A-holes. It's to what degree that makes us different.

Ohio HD

Look at the sprocket spacer that the seal rides on. They tend to get a worn groove where the seal rides on them. Sometimes you can flip them if the seal rides off center of the spacer. Otherwise a new spacer as well.

guys

Seal is ordered, thank you all for the help.

fbn ent

Don't forget to get back to us with the results.
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

xlfan

Is it dripping between shaft and spacer? Or between spacer and oil seal?

choseneasy

Changing a seal never hurts but won't it leak without the clamping force of the nut on the spacer?
 

guys

I am back, with the correct seal ordered and unfortunately more issues.
Besides dropping $150 on a damn turned piece of turned rod (https://www.partsgiant.com/p357247-jims-usa-sprocket-shaft-seal-installer?m=432142&gQT=1) how the hell do you reinstall this seal? There's nothing I feel comfortable tapping/pounding on to seat the seal back into the engine.
Rant: what is up with companies charging $150 for something you can repeatedly make on a lathe in probably 15 minutes? It's not made out of gold.
https://www.zippersperformance.com/758-324/?gQT=1


xlfan

Quote from: guys on January 18, 2025, 05:50:16 PMRant: what is up with companies charging $150 for something you can repeatedly make on a lathe in probably 15 minutes? It's not made out of gold.
If it is that easy, I would have just done it 😁