Baker DD7 issues

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Continuing from the DD7 programming thread rather than to keep dragging it off topic.

My new DD7 has been KLANKY since installation. Both a KLANK into first and with every shift except into 7th, which is always silent. Also, on downshifting a firm shift is needed or it will grind a bit between gears. It's a little "notchy" on downshift.... as if a neutral is between each gear.  Today I took the clutch apart...

First thing I noticed is the fluid is black. This has never happened before, I guess I can write it off to the new MD gear? Magnet had some paste & small shards, nothing alarming.... again new stuff?

Clutch travel is .080-.083 which seems fine. With all the plates out and in neutral the clutch drum spins freely but...

Axial runout is .006"... radial is .003, is this normal? It also makes the chain tighter in some spots than others, and tension in general seems tighter than when I put it together (Baker manual adjuster).

None of the steel plates show any wear or warping, friction plates are like new & well within spec.

I notice all of the steel plates and the spring seat have a noticeable rounded side & sharp side from being stamped... does installation direction matter?

I was hoping to find a smoking gun here rather than I just got a bad tranny, but things are looking grim. 

[rredneckn2]

Primary fluid black?

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Primary fluid black?

Yep.
I did find the answer to plate direction. I have the assist & slip clutch, so naturally HD puts that info in the section of the manual for the clutch I don't have.
I did see that I had the spring in backwards. 

[rredneckn2]

Black primary fluid is not caused by a new main drive gear. Paste and a sliver or two is normal on the magnet. The fluid gets dirty from clutch plate wear. What lube is in the primary? I prefer amsoil 20/50 on any primary service (my preference) Did you check chain alignment during initial install? I only fill primary @32 ozs which is lower than the manual but is sufficient.  not trying to break you nads. I'm trying to help you as I have firsthand experience with the dd7. Rick

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Black primary fluid is not caused by a new main drive gear. Paste and a sliver or two is normal on the magnet. The fluid gets dirty from clutch plate wear. What lube is in the primary? I prefer amsoil 20/50 on any primary service (my preference) Did you check chain alignment during initial install? I only fill primary @32 ozs which is lower than the manual but is sufficient.  not trying to break you nads. I'm trying to help you as I have firsthand experience with the dd7. Rick

Fluid is Mobil 1 syn ATF. Been running it for thousands of miles & multiple changes, never been a problem.
Fluid was filled to the bottom of the clutch basket as always. Didn't check chain alignment... I will.

[jrgreene1968]

It's not a energy one clutch is it?

[Rockout Rocker Products]

It's not a energy one clutch is it?

Nope, stock HD "assist and slip" found on the Rushmore CVO's and Low models.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Soooo.... all back together. New fluid, everything checked..... pretty much the same 

Back to the shop, drop the pepto & replace with Bel-Ray 85-140.... maybe 10% better. Still KLANK into 1st, notchy shifts, sometimes grinding downshifts. Odd thing is... upshift into third is by far the loudest, upshift into 7th is dead silent & hardly any lever travel it seems. 

[Heinz]

I'm having the same problems as you but mine is a grudgebox. I gave my description of my problems and troubleshooting I've done in the other thread so I won't repeat it here. I installed the OEM transmission after I rebuilt it last week and I sent the grudgebox back to Baker and now I'm getting great shifts and it's smooth as can be expected. The only thing I miss is that the Grudge box has a sixth gear ratio of .92 so I dropped about 300 RPM at cruise which was really nice, cruising at 80 miles an hour at 2700 RPM. I'm hoping that Baker finds something that is obvious because if they don't I'm not putting that transmission back in my bike.

[Ohio HD]

I'm having the same problems as you but mine is a grudgebox. I gave my description of my problems and troubleshooting I've done in the other thread so I won't repeat it here. I installed the OEM transmission after I rebuilt it last week and I sent the grudgebox back to Baker and now I'm getting great shifts and it's smooth as can be expected. The only thing I miss is that the Grudge box has a sixth gear ratio of .92 so I dropped about 300 RPM at cruise which was really nice, cruising at 80 miles an hour at 2700 RPM. I'm hoping that Baker finds something that is obvious because if they don't I'm not putting that transmission back in my bike.

How many times do you think it's wise to press the main drive Timken race in and out? Or did you leave it in?

[Heinz]

How many times do you think it's wise to press the main drive Timken race in and out? Or did you leave it in?

Q #1: As few times as possible but Baker does contemplate the need to press the MDG out without changing the Timken bearings or the adapter to hold them because they send three different size spacers in the Grudgebox kit if the endplay isn't within spec of .0005 to .0020 after initially pressing in the MDG. In my case, initially my endplay was .0003-.0004 which was under spec. I was concerned about pressing out the MDG even though they say to do it in the instructions so I called to talk about it further. They told me it won't hurt the bearings and it's an easy press out. So I did and put the next bigger size spacer in (the blue one). My endplay was then in spec (mine was actually .0024 after the switch but the Youtube installation video from Baker says endplay spec is .0005-.0030 even though the written instructions say .0005-.0020). I called Baker afterward and they said .0024 was great.

Q #2: I did not leave the MDG in when I pulled the Grudgebox to send it back to Baker. They told me they wanted to see everything that was in the kit including the pawl because the engineers want to go over anything that might be causing the hard shifts and occasional grinding. As far as I know the Baker MDG is not compatible with the OEM transmission so yes I pressed it out and put in the newest Harley MDG bearing with the rebuilt MDG.

I certainly hope Baker does not send me back my used adapter and Timken bearings that I previously used. I told them in my cover letter with the Grudgebox return that I expect new bearings. But getting back to the OP, when I was talking to Baker, they assured me that they think the .0024 spec on endplay is completely acceptable and has nothing to do with the grinding I occasionally get when shifting. I asked then, why do you want me to send the MDG back to you with the bearings and adapter? Their response was to see if there might be any evidence of improper installation. That made perfect sense to me and I was happy to comply with their request.

The things I did for troubleshooting went above and beyond what Baker asked of me. I tried shifting exactly as instructed by Baker. I checked pressure plate travel and got .082 inches. I checked my Barnett Scorpion clutch plates (even though it was a new clutch) and all plates were perfectly flat. I tried different gear lube and levels of primary fluid (Red Line). When none of that worked, I installed a new Evolution Industries Black Ops ring/sprocket gear and basket combo. I put in a new Barnett Scorpion clutch, new primary chain, and a new SE compensator. I checked the runout on my Baker mainshaft and the new S&S engine left side sprocket shaft. They were both very good. Only .0008 in the mainshaft at the very end and .0010 on the engine sprocket shaft (I used the method described in the Darkhorse Crankworks video). None of that helped. The transmission would still act like the OP's DD7. Like I said in the previous thread, it sounds like me and the OP got defective transmissions but I guess time will tell.

[Ohio HD]

Yeah I just wondered if they wanted the MDG or not. Hopefully they see an issue and resolve it for you both. 

[Ohio HD]

John when you were installing everything, did you happen to dry rotated the transmission once the inner primary was on, but before the clutch? Just to feel how it shifted and rotated by hand? Just looking to understand there was not a bind of anything.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

I did rotate it to make sure it spun freely, I didn't run it through the gears.When I had the clutch apart yesterday the clutch drum/mainshaft spun freely.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

I was just looking through my installation instructions and noticed the warranty card I was supposed to mail in in 45 days or less. I don't like how this is shapIng up

[jrgreene1968]

I was just looking through my installation instructions and noticed the warranty card I was supposed to mail in in 45 days or less. I don't like how this is shapIng up

I hate it when they require you to register a product.
Maybe you will luck out. I just had a 2500.00 home theater receiver go out, and never mailed the warranty info in. I called Marantz when it quit and they had it fixed and back to me in 2 weeks, no charge

[Ohio HD]

I was just looking through my installation instructions and noticed the warranty card I was supposed to mail in in 45 days or less. I don't like how this is shapIng up

I think the card is more geared to someone who purchased it from a distributor, that got it from a shelf at Drag Specialties. That way they know when you actually took delivery of it, and not by the build date. You received it direct from Baker didn't you? They know when you bought it, and when it shipped. I wouldn't loose sleep over that.

[Admiral Akbar]

Continuing from the DD7 programming thread rather than to keep dragging it off topic.

My new DD7 has been KLANKY since installation. Both a KLANK into first and with every shift except into 7th, which is always silent. Also, on downshifting a firm shift is needed or it will grind a bit between gears. It's a little "notchy" on downshift.... as if a neutral is between each gear.  Today I took the clutch apart...

First thing I noticed is the fluid is black. This has never happened before, I guess I can write it off to the new MD gear? Magnet had some paste & small shards, nothing alarming.... again new stuff?

Clutch travel is .080-.083 which seems fine. With all the plates out and in neutral the clutch drum spins freely but...

Axial runout is .006"... radial is .003, is this normal? It also makes the chain tighter in some spots than others, and tension in general seems tighter than when I put it together (Baker manual adjuster).

None of the steel plates show any wear or warping, friction plates are like new & well within spec.

I notice all of the steel plates and the spring seat have a noticeable rounded side & sharp side from being stamped... does installation direction matter?

I was hoping to find a smoking gun here rather than I just got a bad tranny, but things are looking grim. 

I'd blame the clank on the slip assist clutch.  Too much rotational play in the pressure plate causes the clunk.  My 17 rk and 2 other M8s I rode clank every time I shift in the lower gears. 

As far as downshift, learn to blip the throttle.  Probably more "hold in angle" on the clutch dogs.

There is not such thing as axial runout but there are axises with runout.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Continuing from the DD7 programming thread rather than to keep dragging it off topic.

My new DD7 has been KLANKY since installation. Both a KLANK into first and with every shift except into 7th, which is always silent. Also, on downshifting a firm shift is needed or it will grind a bit between gears. It's a little "notchy" on downshift.... as if a neutral is between each gear.  Today I took the clutch apart...

First thing I noticed is the fluid is black. This has never happened before, I guess I can write it off to the new MD gear? Magnet had some paste & small shards, nothing alarming.... again new stuff?

Clutch travel is .080-.083 which seems fine. With all the plates out and in neutral the clutch drum spins freely but...

Axial runout is .006"... radial is .003, is this normal? It also makes the chain tighter in some spots than others, and tension in general seems tighter than when I put it together (Baker manual adjuster).

None of the steel plates show any wear or warping, friction plates are like new & well within spec.

I notice all of the steel plates and the spring seat have a noticeable rounded side & sharp side from being stamped... does installation direction matter?

I was hoping to find a smoking gun here rather than I just got a bad tranny, but things are looking grim. 

I'd blame the clank on the slip assist clutch.  Too much rotational play in the pressure plate causes the clunk.  My 17 rk and 2 other M8s I rode clank every time I shift in the lower gears. 

As far as downshift, learn to blip the throttle.  Probably more "hold in angle" on the clutch dogs.

There is not such thing as axial runout but there are axises with runout.

When I put an indicator on the face of the clutch basket, there is a "wobble" if you want to call it that of .006. I call it runout. I am not talking about endplay, I'm talking about runout just as if measuring disk rotor runout.

It would be fine to blame the A&S clutch except that the shift into first was very quiet with the stock trans, and while the shifting in the other gears wasn't quiet it is louder with the new trans. Quiet shifting was the main selling point to me.

[Admiral Akbar]

When I put an indicator on the face of the clutch basket, there is a "wobble" if you want to call it that of .006. I call it runout. I am not talking about endplay, I'm talking about runout just as if measuring disk rotor runout.

It would be fine to blame the A&S clutch except that the shift into first was very quiet with the stock trans, and while the shifting in the other gears wasn't quiet it is louder with the new trans. Quiet shifting was the main selling point to me.

So it's sideways runout out on the hub.   Did you check the pressure plate? Both engaged and disengaged?  Also did you get the order of the frictions and steels correct. Especially the 2 smaller outer frictions and the 1 smaller steel.  Did you misplace a spring seat? How do the springs stack up side by side?   

[Rockout Rocker Products]

When I put an indicator on the face of the clutch basket, there is a "wobble" if you want to call it that of .006. I call it runout. I am not talking about endplay, I'm talking about runout just as if measuring disk rotor runout.

It would be fine to blame the A&S clutch except that the shift into first was very quiet with the stock trans, and while the shifting in the other gears wasn't quiet it is louder with the new trans. Quiet shifting was the main selling point to me.

So it's sideways runout out on the hub.   Did you check the pressure plate? Both engaged and disengaged?  Also did you get the order of the frictions and steels correct. Especially the 2 smaller outer frictions and the 1 smaller steel.  Did you misplace a spring seat? How do the springs stack up side by side?

The runout is on what I call the basket... the outer portion of the clutch that the gear is attached to. The plates are all in the right order, double checked. I did have the disc spring in backwards but changing it had no effect. Spring seats are all in place, I didn't measure springs... good point there.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Here is the "runout" I was talking about. Turning the inside of the clutch causes the outside to wobble...https://vimeo.com/335020994/d49934de84

Clutch hub & basket seem to have little wear...

[attach=0]
[attach=1]
[attach=2]

Plates and disks are very free... little tendency to stick together.

And Max... springs are all the same length 

[rredneckn2]

Did you Install this Transmission? Did you have the proper tools for the final drive bearing and gear.?

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Did you Install this Transmission? Did you have the proper tools for the final drive bearing and gear.?

Yes, and yes.
Not saying I couldn't have screwed up.

[Admiral Akbar]

Did you change the tensioner at the same time you changed the tranny?

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Did you change the tensioner at the same time you changed the tranny?

The tensioner is a Baker unit... been in there almost since the bike was new in '15.

One thing tho...

I've always struggled with the adjustment. It's that in one set of adjustment "grooves" the chain free play is right at the loose limit, in the next set it's at the tight limit. I've always set it at the loose limit until this last time when I put the DD7 in... I went up that one notch. It's in spec, but as I said, right at the limit.

I'm still waiting for suggestions from Baker. I've given them all of the info I've posted here.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Dug a little deeper today, still no smoking gun. Baker guy says he's waiting to talk to the engineers 

Guess I found the answer to why my clutch wobbles.... why wouldn't it wobble? The clutch is a "Potty mouth" fit on the mainshaft splines, stock or baker. Tightening the nut just holds it against the washer behind that says OUT on it, but is sure to cock it off center. I was able to get it better by changing the orientation on the splines, but not right....

https://vimeo.com/335631007/80561237bc 

[Ohio HD]

Did you take a look at the splines in the clutch hub, see any obvious wear? I do know in my experience both the Barnett and the Bandit hubs seem to fit the transmission splines better. At least with OEM transmission shafts. Maybe also try the clutch hub on the OEM transmission shaft, see how it compares.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Did you take a look at the splines in the clutch hub, see any obvious wear? I do know in my experience both the Barnett and the Bandit hubs seem to fit the transmission splines better. At least with OEM transmission shafts. Maybe also try the clutch hub on the OEM transmission shaft, see how it compares.

There's no wear on the splines of the clutch hub... it's not a wear item. Once the nut is tightened it's locked in place. Fit is the same, stock or DD7.
One more update...

All back together. Slackened the chain one notch on the Baker adjuster, put in Redline 10-40 motor oil (not primary fluid), only because I had it on hand. (Oddly Redline oil isn't red).

First shift into neutral was silent. Then the next, and next. In fact a few times I had to let the clutch out slightly to get the gears lined up 

Test ride around the block a couple of times.... shifting mostly quiet. Still notchy but if it had stayed like this I'd be hard pressed to pull the DD7 & send it back. If.

Once warmed up it was back to banging, klanking into first, etc. 

Thinking about trying the MoCo's new primary fluid. 

[Ohio HD]

Actually the splines can wear and break, and then the clutch basket can get pulled out of line, causes the ring gear to contact the inner primary under power. I've seen more than one bikes clutch hub splines damaged.


[attach=0]

[Admiral Akbar]

So all you did was change the tranny any you got the clunk?

[rredneckn2]

That's what I'm reading thru this. Very interesting.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Actually the splines can wear and break, and then the clutch basket can get pulled out of line, causes the ring gear to contact the inner primary under power. I've seen more than one bikes clutch hub splines damaged.

True enough, I just meant that it's not a wear item in that it's not supposed to move.

So all you did was change the tranny any you got the clunk?

Not so much that just changing the tranny made it klunk. The DD7 is advertised to be, and users attest to, being very quiet and smooth shifting as compared to the stock 6 speed. Mine is not. Smoother, quieter shifting is why I paid thousands of dollars for it.... I could have changed to lower gearing if that's all I was after. If you're asking did I do any other mods at the same time the answer is no.

[Ohio HD]

Actually the splines can wear and break, and then the clutch basket can get pulled out of line, causes the ring gear to contact the inner primary under power. I've seen more than one bikes clutch hub splines damaged.

True enough, I just meant that it's not a wear item in that it's not supposed to move.

ahh, got ya John.

[Admiral Akbar]

Not so much that just changing the tranny made it klunk. The DD7 is advertised to be, and users attest to, being very quiet and smooth shifting as compared to the stock 6 speed. Mine is not. Smoother, quieter shifting is why I paid thousands of dollars for it.... I could have changed to lower gearing if that's all I was after. If you're asking did I do any other mods at the same time the answer is no.

So you didn't disassemble the clutch until after you got the clunk?

One thing to note is the reason why Baker (IMO) says that the 7 speed is a smoother shifter is because the gears ratios are spaced closer together.   The closer ratio means the clutch has less of a RPM change when shifting gears.  That is what typically causes the clutch clunk.  The trannies don't have synchros.   The 5 speeds I have with close ratio 1st and 2nd, shift smoother 1-2, 2-3 compared to a stock tranny.

For neutral to 1st, drag in the tranny will reduce clunk so maybe the dd7 has less drag.  I doubt they can make the claim for an easier shift from neutral to 1st. They definitely can't for the M8s.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

As I recall when I did the DD7 I pulled the clutch off as a unit.

The fact that it now seems OK when cold has me looking at fluids...
No KLANK into first means, as you say, there is sufficient drag in the trans to overcome parasitic drag of the spinning clutch. Seems the multi-vis oil in the primary would be at it's thinnest then. As things heat up, the primary oil thickens... more parasitic drag.... KLANK.
Probably explains why I always had such great success with syn ATF.
Thinking along the same lines.... it would seem light, straight weight fluid would work the best 

[Don D]

As things heat up, the primary oil thickens.
It is actually opposite of that.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

As things heat up, the primary oil thickens.
It is actually opposite of that.

You're right of course... not enough coffee...

[attach=0]

[kd]

One thing to consider may be expansion.  If your oil level is close to the edge of the clutch disc cold, it may be into the clutch when hot (or riding and maneuvering). The oil will move to the front on braking, the rear on acceleration and side to side on turns, further changing the depth.  I think that is why so many have good success with a reduced volume and companies like Bandit even recommend it. Have you tried to remove some oil and see if there is a change? 

[Rockout Rocker Products]

One thing to consider may be expansion.  If your oil level is close to the edge of the clutch disc cold, it may be into the clutch when hot (or riding and maneuvering). The oil will move to the front on braking, the rear on acceleration and side to side on turns, further changing the depth.  I think that is why so many have good success with a reduced volume and companies like Bandit even recommend it. Have you tried to remove some oil and see if there is a change?

Fun with fluids...

Today I dropped the 10-40 oil from the primary & put in a measured 26 ounces of Redline 75-140 gear oil. (Again.... NOT Redline motorcycle product). Took some temp readings before & after a 10-15 mile "spirited" run...

Before, 78 degrees.

After, head temp at 268 degrees:

Primary by comp: 190
Primary by starter: 168
Trans @ DD7 Logo: 202 (All with Fluke gun)

Cold performance was as before... great. Hot.... I'd say maybe 30% improvement? Hard to say for sure. One thing is for sure is that as things heat up they go south.

A little research... The Bel-Ray 85-140 hypoid gear oil in the trans viscosity is 376@40c/27 @100c.

 

That explains why the cold shifts into 1st are quiet... resistance to spinning the mainshaft.

My guess at this point is my DD7 is at the loose end of tolerances, and as the oil gets thinner it gets even looser. I don't see much they're going to be able to do about that through email. 

At any rate I'm done until they make a decision.

[jmorton10]

I hate when people post "Potty mouth" like this, but the DD7 I put in my 124" 07 RK is one of the best mods I've ever done to the bike.

I tore 6 teeth off the 3rd gear cluster in the stock 6 speed with an air shift  racing a buddy of mine & rather than repair it I installed the DD7 builders kit.  I have a Vulcan solid engine sprocket, the newer Baker adjuster & Bandit Sportsman clutch with Trask basket. 14 ounces of Redline Primary fluid & Redline HD Shockproof in the tranny.

Everybody who had ridden my bike can believe how smooth & quiet it shifts.  I can slip it into neutral at a dead stop easily any time I want.

~John

[Admiral Akbar]

I hate when people post "Potty mouth" like this, but the DD7 I put in my 124" 07 RK is one of the best mods I've ever done to the bike.

I tore 6 teeth off the 3rd gear cluster in the stock 6 speed with an air shift  racing a buddy of mine & rather than repair it I installed the DD7 builders kit.  I have a Vulcan solid engine sprocket, the newer Baker adjuster & Bandit Sportsman clutch with Trask basket. 14 ounces of Redline Primary fluid & Redline HD Shockproof in the tranny.

Everybody who had ridden my bike can believe how smooth & quiet it shifts.  I can slip it into neutral at a dead stop easily any time I want.

~John

Does you bike have a "slip/assist" clutch in it?

[Rockout Rocker Products]

I hate when people post "Potty mouth" like this, but the DD7 I put in my 124" 07 RK is one of the best mods I've ever done to the bike.

I tore 6 teeth off the 3rd gear cluster in the stock 6 speed with an air shift  racing a buddy of mine & rather than repair it I installed the DD7 builders kit.  I have a Vulcan solid engine sprocket, the newer Baker adjuster & Bandit Sportsman clutch with Trask basket. 14 ounces of Redline Primary fluid & Redline HD Shockproof in the tranny.

Everybody who had ridden my bike can believe how smooth & quiet it shifts.  I can slip it into neutral at a dead stop easily any time I want.

~John

How does everything you say being true affect me?   

[jrgreene1968]

I think your luck is like mine, you bought a good product, it works for everybody.. but you.
That's exactly how my luck goes, they could sell 10 thousand that worked perfect, and I'd buy the 1 that didn't . Hope they can get it resolved for you. I've never dealt with baker, but had always read good things about them

[Admiral Akbar]

It's my bet that, the issue is the clutch.  The pressure plate on the SA clutch has to rotate so many degrees to work. It rattles.  I can make the primary on my 17 RK rattle so bad that it'll sound like it's going to blow..

If the original tranny was considerably quieter, I'd suspect that DD7 probably has more clearance / lash in the dog clutches (lets them brag about smoother shifting).   The extra clearance like allows the SA clutch to rattle more..

One thing you could try is to go back to the stock tensioner and see if the clunk gets better.  If you have a non-SA clutch laying around try that.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

I'm not ruling the clutch (or anything) out. But, as I mentioned before... it has always worked ok. It has .080+ throw, engages all the way out at the lever (away from the grip). There is zero problem finding neutral.
The clutch also doesn't explain the notchy, detent between gears shifting, and grinding downshifts.

I do still have the stock tensioner on the shelf. As for replacement clutches.... not positive what my options are there. The '15 Limited Low was kind of a bastard model. It has the old style hydraulic clutch system that was only found elsewhere in the CVOs at the time. I also have a narrowed primary that was unique to the Low models. The master/slave cylinders changed in '17 I'm pretty sure.

I'm sure Baker will figure it out. I don't want to sound like I'm bashing them or their product. In fact it's the reputation the DD7 has that lets me know mine has an issue. I'm also curious to hear what they find in the other poster's grudgebox.
Thanks for your (and everyone's)  thoughts on the matter.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Well, the DD7 is out & will be on the way back to Baker for "evaluation" on Tuesday. Here is the extent of Baker field testing...

Baker: How much clutch disk travel do you have?

Me: .080+

Baker: Unfortunately we have reached a point that I think you will need to send it in to be inspected. We have went through all of the adjustments and other parts that might be causing this

Great. And I hear they are running weeks for "inspections"

Soooo..... I'm putting the 6 speed back in & have a little issue.... it won't go in  It gets maybe 1/2" shy & hits a hard stop. Try the Baker again, slides right in. 6 speed... hard stop.

I still have the Baker MDG assembly in there... is it not compatible with the stock 6 speed  I was trying to save some time but as usual that ain't how it's working out lol.

[Ohio HD]

There is a Baker main drive Timken for the OEM six speed, but maybe what they supply with the DD7 is not the same?

[Rockout Rocker Products]

And the answer is.... I'm screwed as usual 

Here's the "what's included" list for the Baker MDG kit on their website...

[attach=0]

[rigidthumper]

Well, the DD7 is out & will be on the way back to Baker for "evaluation" on Tuesday. Here is the extent of Baker field testing... I was trying to save some time but as usual that ain't how it's working out lol.

Would it be quicker/easier to send them the entire thing? Case and gears? No riding, but would give them more things to check...

[koko3052]

Well, the DD7 is out & will be on the way back to Baker for "evaluation" on Tuesday. Here is the extent of Baker field testing... I was trying to save some time but as usual that ain't how it's working out lol.

Would it be quicker/easier to send them the entire thing? Case and gears? No riding, but would give them more things to check...

That would be the way to do it!
You never know..... they may find some anomaly with the case.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

The no riding is the problem. I have a brother in law coming July 4th week to among other things ride down the Cal coast with me. (I have 2 bikes). Figure a week shipping there,a week shipping back, 3weeks for evaluation/repair...... cutting it too close. Rather than pull the inner primary,change the Baker MDG and bearing/race back to stock and putting in the 6 speed...I'll probably put the DD7 back in and deal with it after he leaves. I was hoping to do a quick swap, should have known better.


I did ask Baker if they would ship me a new unit,charge me for it then credit me when I return the defective one.... crickets.

[Ohio HD]

The no riding is the problem. I have a brother in law coming July 4th week to among other things ride down the Cal coast with me. (I have 2 bikes). Figure a week shipping there,a week shipping back, 3weeks for evaluation/repair...... cutting it too close. Rather than pull the inner primary,change the Baker MDG and bearing/race back to stock and putting in the 6 speed...I'll probably put the DD7 back in and deal with it after he leaves. I was hoping to do a quick swap, should have known better.


I did ask Baker if they would ship me a new unit,charge me for it then credit me when I return the defective one.... crickets.

Phone call Tuesday, ask to speak to Lisa Baker. You may have to leave a message, just be calm and explain. She can say what's what there.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

The no riding is the problem. I have a brother in law coming July 4th week to among other things ride down the Cal coast with me. (I have 2 bikes). Figure a week shipping there,a week shipping back, 3weeks for evaluation/repair...... cutting it too close. Rather than pull the inner primary,change the Baker MDG and bearing/race back to stock and putting in the 6 speed...I'll probably put the DD7 back in and deal with it after he leaves. I was hoping to do a quick swap, should have known better.


I did ask Baker if they would ship me a new unit,charge me for it then credit me when I return the defective one.... crickets.

Phone call Tuesday, ask to speak to Lisa Baker. You may have to leave a message, just be calm and explain. She can say what's what there.

Good suggestion but no time.  This was the weekend to get it done. The DD7 is back in, after the planned ride on the 4th I'll pull it & ride my Triumph Tiger 1050 while they sort it out.

[rredneckn2]

So I'm assuming you are running a sealed bearing on the inner primary.

[Coyote]

Phone call Tuesday, ask to speak to Lisa Baker. You may have to leave a message, just be calm and explain. She can say what's what there.

I have her cell number.   

[Ohio HD]

Phone call Tuesday, ask to speak to Lisa Baker. You may have to leave a message, just be calm and explain. She can say what's what there.

I have her cell number.   

I just have her email address......       

[Coyote]

Phone call Tuesday, ask to speak to Lisa Baker. You may have to leave a message, just be calm and explain. She can say what's what there.

I have her cell number.   

I just have her email address......       

That just means your not a big enough PITA   

[Ohio HD]

Phone call Tuesday, ask to speak to Lisa Baker. You may have to leave a message, just be calm and explain. She can say what's what there.

I have her cell number.   

I just have her email address......       

That just means your not a big enough PITA   

not yet......         

[rredneckn2]

Did you ever think u you might have stepped on your stick when they wanted your dd7 back and you reinstall it?

[Rockout Rocker Products]

So I'm assuming you are running a sealed bearing on the inner primary.

Yes, it comes with the DD7.

[Rockout Rocker Products]

Did you ever think u you might have stepped on your stick when they wanted your dd7 back and you reinstall it?

Far as they know I never took it out.
It would still be under warranty either way.

[rredneckn2]

Well mine didn't come with a sealed bearing. A 06 race and running a stock 08 bearing.

[shimaze]

Just be wondering if you ever got this problem reserved and if so, what was the problem? What did Baker say?

[Rockout Rocker Products]

It went back to Baker, they replaced a couple of gears & called it good. Got it back & it was same as when I sent it. 




I won't waste shipping money to send it back again.


F 'em.

[BadBass]

I'm having the same problems as you but mine is a grudgebox. I gave my description of my problems and troubleshooting I've done in the other thread so I won't repeat it here. I installed the OEM transmission after I rebuilt it last week and I sent the grudgebox back to Baker and now I'm getting great shifts and it's smooth as can be expected. The only thing I miss is that the Grudge box has a sixth gear ratio of .92 so I dropped about 300 RPM at cruise which was really nice, cruising at 80 miles an hour at 2700 RPM. I'm hoping that Baker finds something that is obvious because if they don't I'm not putting that transmission back in my bike.

I'm having the same exact issues as Heinz with my Grudge Box. I have a 2017 RG with the M8. After 450 miles on the tranny I sent it back to Baker. They tried telling me it was the Rekluse clutch, however it was only 3rd gear where I was having the issue. If it was the clutch I'd be having the issue in every gear.  Speaking with a gentleman who builds race transmissions, he said Baker over chamfers the dogs which causes the transmission not to go into gear properly. I was wondering if Baker was ever able to get yours fixed?

[barny7655]

 two things to ponder, not enough clearance when hot ,between steels and frictions, check over all clutch pack height,  Or main clutch  spring, needs replacing ,lost tension as the clutch pack expands, just not sure of the clutch spring, or springs your using , barny