Rebuild Bottom End 1970s 74in Shovelhead

Started by tinkering, May 07, 2020, 08:32:59 AM

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Buglet

  Do not use glass beads for inside of case use plastic plus dill out the Welsh plug of if welded so you can clean out the oil passage After you done blasting and cleaning don't forget to put a plug back in there. Its in the right case on the bottom of the case. Again do not use glass beads inside the case.

turboprop

Quote from: tinkering on May 07, 2020, 02:09:27 PM
Quote from: fbn ent on May 07, 2020, 01:11:30 PM
Ray Laslo is around Edmonton too......40-45 years experience.
Too bad he's not in Calgary. Thanks though.

Denco Cycles. Good stuff.

http://www.dencocycle.com
'We' like this' - Said by the one man operation.

tinkering

Quote from: Hillside Motorcycle on May 08, 2020, 03:50:01 AM
We re-build those cranks here and have for about 30 years now, and are fully equipped with a dedicated work area for this.
By the time you are set-ready-go with all the tooling needed, S&S Master Balancing Tools, flywheel fixtures, truing stand, indicators, rod re-build tools, line lapper, drill press, or mill,(a lathe is handy also) torque wrenches, various custom jigs and holders, etc, etc, etc, a shop can have north of $7500.00 plus dollars tied up in this, at today's prices, w/o the machine tools.
I hear you. I will do whatever I can with the gear I have. At that point I will use a bonifide builder machine shop in Calgary, hopefully. I've been directed to Sammich Sycles in Strathmore. It's still quite a drive if it requires me to travel back and forth, so I'm still looking for one closer.
Don't get me wrong. I appreciate your expertice. I just don't like the holdups at the border when shipping stuff. All of your information is really helpful. Please keep it coming.

tinkering

Quote from: jeffscycle on May 08, 2020, 09:42:55 AM
   There are a bunch of people here including myself that rebuild & balance flywheels, as we acquired all of the previously mentioned tools over7 the years when rebuilding the old stuff was a basic need. So just having someone do the wheels or buy a new S&S assembly is far cheaper & quicker than torturing your wallet. But I still see that the flywheels themselves are about the only savable items, and rods that don't get magnafluxed checked are an accident waiting to happen. You can do it on the Cheap with Chinese parts, and if staying with basic 74" configuration, you'd probably be OK, but that's your bet to back.
    As for case inspection & repair, I bolt down oven heated case halves & using plugs I made, I can put some stress on the races to see if they move. If they are loose, you can see oil seep out around the races. At that point if they're bad I don't ***K around & just ship them off to Dark Horse. These kind of shops have dedicated fixtures & machine to do fast and quality work far faster than It'd take me to set up my mill.
    Dragon Man, That guy was great for my Business!!!! I should have sent him Christmas cards.
I definitely belong too the society for the prevention of cruelty to wallets.  If only the wheels and rods are usable so be it. I don't like the idea of putting chiny parts in an American motor; that is not my intension. I don't bet on chiny products, that's for sure. I will make sure the guy who does any machine work plans on magnafluxing the rods. I like your hot pressure setup for checking the case race etc.... I'll make sure that gets done somehow. Dark Horse sounds like a Great machine shop. How much would they want to remake a box of parts into a bottom end again? Thanks for your infomation and help. I appreciate it.

fbn ent

'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

tinkering

Quote from: Buglet on May 08, 2020, 10:30:55 AM
  Do not use glass beads for inside of case use plastic plus dill out the Welsh plug of if welded so you can clean out the oil passage After you done blasting and cleaning don't forget to put a plug back in there. Its in the right case on the bottom of the case. Again do not use glass beads inside the case.
That is nice info. I will take a look at that... and see it I can find some plastic plus. Thanks


tinkering


Buglet

  Also take out the cylinder studs as debris gets stuck behind them when blasting. A little heat helps in removing the studs.

tinkering

Quote from: Buglet on May 09, 2020, 08:29:42 AM
  Also take out the cylinder studs as debris gets stuck behind them when blasting. A little heat helps in removing the studs.
Will do thanks.
With smaller compressors, do pressurized or syphon feed blasters work better? I have a 4 or 5 gallon syphon pail setup. Compressor is 1 or 2 hp I think with 100 gallons of tank. I want to get it set up better than it has been.

tinkering

Quote from: Buglet on May 08, 2020, 10:30:55 AM
  Do not use glass beads for inside of case use plastic plus dill out the Welsh plug of if welded so you can clean out the oil passage After you done blasting and cleaning don't forget to put a plug back in there. Its in the right case on the bottom of the case. Again do not use glass beads inside the case.
Why can't you use fine glass bead at lower psi, or soda, rather than plastic which is harder to find? Why is this more critical inside the case?

Buglet

   I see it to many time where guys would glass beads the inside of the cases and sometime the glass would get embedded in the cases and once it's running the cases get hot the beads fall out and that's not good for the motor. There is to many places for the glass to hide. I see to many redone motors get wasted that way.

tinkering

Quote from: Buglet on May 09, 2020, 11:20:21 AM
   I see it to many time where guys would glass beads the inside of the cases and sometime the glass would get embedded in the cases and once it's running the cases get hot the beads fall out and that's not good for the motor. There is to many places for the glass to hide. I see to many redone motors get wasted that way.
Well I can not argue that! Thanks for the heads up. I will try to find some plastic for that. The cases were painted inside I think, so it won't be as rough as the exposed areas. Do you use plastic on the outside too? What size of plastic plus do you use?

Buglet

     The stuff I use is Plastic Abrasive # 6712-50 it come in a 50lb box. I you want the outside of the case to look like when it can out of the factory then the plastic is the way to go. If you want more luster then go with glass.

tinkering

Where is the best price to order parts, and specialty tools for canadian delivery?  :baby:

fbn ent

Check Martin Hogan - HH Tools is in Calgary....he sells some tools. Haven't checked his pricing in quite a while.
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

tinkering

Quote from: Buglet on May 09, 2020, 02:21:02 PM
     The stuff I use is Plastic Abrasive # 6712-50 it come in a 50lb box. I you want the outside of the case to look like when it can out of the factory then the plastic is the way to go. If you want more luster then go with glass.
I like the luster. It has all kinds of time to dull up:)
Thanks

tinkering

Quote from: fbn ent on May 09, 2020, 03:15:48 PM
Check Martin Hogan - HH Tools is in Calgary....he sells some tools. Haven't checked his pricing in quite a while.
Thanks for that!   :up:

tinkering

Will a 2019 114cid motor fit a shovelhead frame without mods?

Burnout

I don't think so.
The biggest motor I know of that will fit in a stock 4 speed frame is a S&S 4"x4" 100" EVO
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

fbn ent

I don't even think an EVO will fit without some cutting...
'02 FLTRI - 103" / '84 FLH - 88"<br />Hinton, Alberta

Racepres

Quote from: Burnout on May 11, 2020, 01:10:43 PM
I don't think so.
The biggest motor I know of that will fit in a stock 4 speed frame is a S&S 4"x4" 100" EVO
Me too...
Quote from: fbn ent on May 11, 2020, 01:44:20 PM
I don't even think an EVO will fit without some cutting...
see the above... S&S built a 100 inch Evo just for the 4 speed frame...
While Harley built a 4-speed frame, just for the Evo engine... 1985 and 1986...

JW113

S&S used to sell a 79 cube Evo motor with short cylinders made for 4 speed frames. Have not seen one for quite some time, not sure if they still make that stuff. That said, you theoretically make a 114 shovelhead motor. 3-13/16" bore and 5" stroke. That might also be a tight fit in a 4 speed frame.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

Racepres

Quote from: JW113 on May 11, 2020, 02:16:08 PM
S&S used to sell a 79 cube Evo motor with short cylinders made for 4 speed frames. Have not seen one for quite some time, not sure if they still make that stuff. That said, you theoretically make a 114 shovelhead motor. 3-13/16" bore and 5" stroke. That might also be a tight fit in a 4 speed frame.

-JW
And... If you ever had a "conventional" 114, the 3-13/16 by 5... you next found that the Transmission was not up to the Task.. Too bad Baker did not have their 4-speed when I was runnin the 114...

Hossamania

Quote from: tinkering on May 11, 2020, 12:45:32 PM
Will a 2019 114cid motor fit a shovelhead frame without mods?

That made me laugh, I like your thinking!
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.