4 speed main shaft leak

[Chippitt68]

I have a leak on my 1982 flh since I bought it. It's gotten worse, to the point I don't want to ride it. I ordered the tools I needed and took it apart today. I've read several threads on this forum and the consensus is, if the MDG bushing is bad, you cannot fix the leak with a new seal or super nut.
How can you tell if the MDG bushing is bad? There is no discernible play side to side or up and down. There is about .020 end play when the sprocket and nut are installed. This was a hard measurement to get as I measured from the MDG to the end of the main shaft and my cheap caliper was difficult to maneuver. I'm confident that it's very close to .020 inch. 
The seal was really easy to pull out.It's rubber, no metal case.  The spacer is proud of the case an average of .073 inch.

[Chippitt68]

Here are some pics of the mess. Chain is shot. It's more like rebar than a chain.

[FSG]

[Chippitt68]

eBay link from video doesn't work. No longer selling there. I did look for this and I cannot find anywhere. Read the threads from saddlebagrail.

[FSG]

I have the DIMs somewhere so that one can be made

[billbuilds]

eBay link from video doesn't work. No longer selling there. I did look for this and I cannot find anywhere. Read the threads from saddlebagrail.

     They are on eBay. Just search "Shovelhead Leak Free Transmission". Be sure to order the correct one. I'd recommend using a Cometic seal. I have instructions that Ray emailed me years ago. Very helpful. If you get the o-ring spacer and you need just PM me and I'll forward them to you. Bottom line is you don't install it straight on.
                                      Good prep and patience is the key. HTH, Bill
                                               

[Chippitt68]

I have the DIMs somewhere so that one can be made

Thanks FSG. I should have said I read the threads from saddlebagrail. What I wrote sounded like I was telling you to read them. Not my intention and I apologize. Thanks for your help.

[Chippitt68]

eBay link from video doesn't work. No longer selling there. I did look for this and I cannot find anywhere. Read the threads from saddlebagrail.

     They are on eBay. Just search "Shovelhead Leak Free Transmission". Be sure to order the correct one. I'd recommend using a Cometic seal. I have instructions that Ray emailed me years ago. Very helpful. If you get the o-ring spacer and you need just PM me and I'll forward them to you. Bottom line is you don't install it straight on.
                                      Good prep and patience is the key. HTH, Bill
                                               

Thanks. I found it with that search. I ordered one. Appreciate the help

[fbn ent]

Think I'll order one up too!

[RTMike]

I purchased 6 of them 2 mounts ago,Ray is still in business

[JSD]

Yep Ray is still at it 

[JW113]

Get some extra O-rings, Viton. Trust me on this.
 

-JW

[Chippitt68]

I got the spacer from Ray. It was tight going on. I had to rap on it. I assume that's because of the o ring.I lubed the inside of the spacer and the tape I wrapped 4th gear. I used a single tight wrap of electrical tape. All the tape I had on there came off after install. I pushed the seal in too far and I don't see any way to get it out flush with the case without damaging it. I'll get another seal. Can I test by filling trans with fluid letting it sit overnight? Put the sprocket, nut and clutch basket back on and spin? I don't want to put everything back together until I'm reasonably sure the leak is gone.

[Ohio HD]

If you do that  I'd use some very light oil, like ATF. That way if it will leak, it should leak sooner. But then sometimes it takes parts moving (when riding) to have the leak. You can always flush the ATF out before closing the transmission up.

[JW113]

No need to flush it, just drain it. After all, it is automatic TRANSMISSION fluid! In fact, that is what I use in my sportster primary/trans. No issues what-so-ever.

-JW

[JSD]

As above and you could put nut on MS and spin with a drill impact tool etc

[Chippitt68]

I will do that. I am waiting on the new seal. I was cleaning up the inner primary today. I had it laid out on a towel and was scrubbing with brush and brake clean. I turned it over and these two washers fell out. I have no idea where they would have come from. I had wiped the inner off when I removed it and didn't notice them at that time. They are very small. Any idea where they might go?

[billbuilds]

      Did you make sure that there weren't any burrs on your splines? I found that putting the electrical tape just to the back edge of the splines made it such that I could install the spacer/seal by tipping it slighting and pushing a little bit at a time on the spacer to get the o-ring over the tape/main shaft seam. You shouldn't have to rap it and. again, you don't want to try to install it straight on so that all of the o-ring is going on at once. Tip it slightly and gently push on the spacer going in either a clockwise or counter clockwise direction  pushing more o-ring over that tape seam as you make your circle. It'll be a bit tight but it should not bind and you should not have to wrap the spacer to get the o-ring over the hump.

[xlfan]

The leak isn't coming from the mainshaft seal? That could be an indication of worn MDG bushing.

[billbuilds]

     "How can you tell if the MDG bushing is bad?" To be certain you really need to measure.

[Ohio HD]

One thing I just noticed. The inner primary is missing a seal that goes after the inner primary bearing shown. Possibly you pulled that seal already, but I wanted to mention it just in case it were missing. It looks like there was seepage there as well. Should be part number 12052A 12018 (see below posts).

[xlfan]

I do believe that inner primary oil seal is p/n 12018 for 70-e84.

[Ohio HD]

You're right. Interesting that HD shows both now that I look at their site again. When I scrolled I stopped at the 12052A first, item #32. Above it is another item #32, the 12018 seal.

I looked both HD numbers up under the James catalog, the 12052A is for five speeds. Which there were none offered in the Electra Glide to my knowledge. Only the Tour Glides. So HD has it listed wrong for that year and model.   

[Chippitt68]

Did you make sure that there weren't any burrs on your splines? I found that putting the electrical tape just to the back edge of the splines made it such that I could install the spacer/seal by tipping it slighting and pushing a little bit at a time on the spacer to get the o-ring over the tape/main shaft seam. You shouldn't have to rap it and. again, you don't want to try to install it straight on so that all of the o-ring is going on at once. Tip it slightly and gently push on the spacer going in either a clockwise or counter clockwise direction  pushing more o-ring over that tape seam as you make your circle. It'll be a bit tight but it should not bind and you should not have to wrap the spacer to get the o-ring over the hump.

I did tape the main shaft. After reading your post, I removed the seal. It was difficult to remove. There was tape under the O ring. It doesn't look like the ring was damaged. I got a couple spares with the spacer so I will replace. I did slide the spacer on without the Iring and it does slide on easily. I'll will take your advice when I get the new seal.

[Chippitt68]

"How can you tell if the MDG bushing is bad?" To be certain you really need to measure.

There is no decernable movement in the main shaft. The mdg does have end play. I do not have the ability to put a dial indicator on the main shaft. The main drive gear is a different story. I pushed it in measured with caliper to end of main shaft, pulled mdg out and measured again.  .104 was the difference. Toast?