2023 FLHTK steering head lubrication

[pauly]

Hi all,
Well I picked up a 23 ultra limited yesterday and it seems a nice bike. Lots of wires and plastic but that's modern life eh!
I was looking at maintenance points and for the last 50 years, every bike I've had, had a grease nipple in the middle of the steering head, and I would pump the whole assembly full of waterproof grease, and put a few pumps in at every wash. Worked a treat.
This new bike, has no apparent means of lubricating the steering head bearings, and although I don't have the service manual yet (it's on its way), I got hold of a 2020 flhtk service manual that indicated you need to disassemble the steering head to lubricate the bearings!
Please - tell me it isn't true, or tell me the sneaky ways you guys are lubricating this critical area.

Thanks
Pauly

[Tacocaster]

You can only hope there's a "sneaky way".
Failing that, you could do the recommended method (once) but while apart, drill 'er and plug 'er with a nipple. I then see many happy miles in your future.

[calif phil]

Congrats on the new bike, it does seem like they took a step backwards by making the grease Zerk go away. 

[rigidthumper]

The area, once full of grease, usually ended up dripping somewhat when warm outside. This caused some to believe they had leaking fork seals. Since it's cheaper to remove a machining step and a part, this was the factory solution. Lube/adjustment is at 25K mile intervals, so for the average rider it's once every 5 years.

[pauly]

Hi Tacocaster,

Looks like that's what I may have to do! What a pain.

Thanks
Pauly

You can only hope there's a "sneaky way".
Failing that, you could do the recommended method (once) but while apart, drill 'er and plug 'er with a nipple. I then see many happy miles in your future.

[pauly]

Hi Phil,

It was with mixed emotions, we said goodbye to out 07 Softail Custom. It had served us well, however lack of storage, a windscreen, navigation, etc (all the old man comforts) beckoned. It was (and still is) a beautiful bike which proved I over maintain things haha.
Reading through the docs I can find, there's a whole bunch of design decisions made, that seem to ignore common maintenance items for people that "keep" their bikes. Still...this new beast is a pretty sweet ride, and once my legs are a bit stronger (it's heavy!) I'll be maintaining it just like the Softail.

Thanks
Pauly

Congrats on the new bike, it does seem like they took a step backwards by making the grease Zerk go away. 

[pauly]

Hi Rigidthumper,

I guess we all handle such things differently. When I see a little grease forming around the steering head I say to myself, "good - it's lubricated", and pump some more in, then wipe off the excess. I guess I'll be removing all that wire, plastic, etc etc, and dissasembling the front end to lubricate it, and I'll pop a grease nipple in there then. I was surprised Harley made that decision.
Thanks
Pauly

The area, once full of grease, usually ended up dripping somewhat when warm outside. This caused some to believe they had leaking fork seals. Since it's cheaper to remove a machining step and a part, this was the factory solution. Lube/adjustment is at 25K mile intervals, so for the average rider it's once every 5 years.

[calif phil]

The area, once full of grease, usually ended up dripping somewhat when warm outside. This caused some to believe they had leaking fork seals. Since it's cheaper to remove a machining step and a part, this was the factory solution. Lube/adjustment is at 25K mile
intervals, so for the average rider it's once every 5 years.

I bet most bikes will be lucky to see them inspected and lubed by 50,000 miles.

[FSG]

I bet most bikes will be lucky to see them inspected and lubed by 50,000 miles.

if that   

[pauly]

Hi again Phil,
I agree. As I mentioned, I don't yet have the 2023 service manual, however I'm assuming it's very similar (if not exactly the same) as the 2020 procedure.... Quite a lot of work it seems. I sort of wish I could have bought a brand new old bike! Much of the old Harley quality seems to have fallen by the wayside. Little things, like not deburring metal before chroming, protection of paint from wires and other wear items, extensive use of those pathetic 'skrivvits', and of course missing grease nipples (I'd like to see them in at least the steering head, swingarm pivot, and gear selector shaft).
Anyway, the bike has lots of features, so let's just hope they all keep on working way past the warranty period.
Thanks
Pauly

The area, once full of grease, usually ended up dripping somewhat when warm outside. This caused some to believe they had leaking fork seals. Since it's cheaper to remove a machining step and a part, this was the factory solution. Lube/adjustment is at 25K mile
intervals, so for the average rider it's once every 5 years.

I bet most bikes will be lucky to see them inspected and lubed by 50,000 miles.

[pauly]

Hi FSG,

You'd have more experience with these tourers than me. How long would you estimate the procedure to repack the steering head bearings would take? To me it seems really involved, removing the outer, and inner fairing, and all the associated wires, switches etc, then disassembling the to triple tree etc... that would take me ages and I reckon I'd break 19 plastic clips, and incorrectly route many wires etc.

Thanks
Pauly

I bet most bikes will be lucky to see them inspected and lubed by 50,000 miles.

if that   

[smoserx1]

I guess we all handle such things differently. When I see a little grease forming around the steering head I say to myself, "good - it's lubricated", and pump some more in, then wipe off the excess. I guess I'll be removing all that wire, plastic, etc etc, and dissasembling the front end to lubricate it, and I'll pop a grease nipple in there then. I was surprised Harley made that decision.
Thanks
Pauly

I'm wondering if the old grease fitting did any good at all.  Those bearings (at least the one my bike uses) are tapered roller bearings and really need to be removed and packed  preferably with a bearing packer so the new grease is actually forced through the bearing itself and out between the rollers and cage.  Anyway that grease fitting is located halfway in between the bearings and nothing will get lubricated till that void fills up, and even then is any grease actually getting into the actual bearings and replacing the old grease like a bearing packer would do?  I doubt it.  Last time I did this on mine it took a whole grease cartridge before grease emerged from the bottom of the neck and none came out of the top.  I suspect it never even reached the top bearing, and what, if any reached the bottom bearing mostly just surrounded it and was not actuality forced through the bearing like it needs to be.  I guarantee you taking it apart and properly packing the bearings will give you a better result and is probably why Harley removed the grease fitting.  And yes, doing it this way involves a lot of work.

[Hossamania]

It's on my list, but it's only 12 years old with 60,000 miles on it. I'll get to it, eventually........

[FSG]

I've no idea the time it'd take ......  never been there  .....  but yes time consuming 

it all started with the 2014 Model


https://i.imgur.com/HeIMTlv.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/qPRueCL.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/1UjeEE2.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/TgH1wXL.mp4

https://i.imgur.com/RJG5oNt.mp4

[pauly]

Hi Smoserx1

I respectfully disagree. The grease has no option but to travel through the bearings when you compress it via a grease nipple. I see I with numerous tapered bearings, such as steering heads, and boat trailer bearings. The grease is forced into, and through the bearings, subsequently making a mess. I agree, the first application can take a lot of grease as you need to fill up the neck before the bearings are reached.

Thanks
Pauly

I guess we all handle such things differently. When I see a little grease forming around the steering head I say to myself, "good - it's lubricated", and pump some more in, then wipe off the excess. I guess I'll be removing all that wire, plastic, etc etc, and dissasembling the front end to lubricate it, and I'll pop a grease nipple in there then. I was surprised Harley made that decision.
Thanks
Pauly

I'm wondering if the old grease fitting did any good at all.  Those bearings (at least the one my bike uses) are tapered roller bearings and really need to be removed and packed  preferably with a bearing packer so the new grease is actually forced through the bearing itself and out between the rollers and cage.  Anyway that grease fitting is located halfway in between the bearings and nothing will get lubricated till that void fills up, and even then is any grease actually getting into the actual bearings and replacing the old grease like a bearing packer would do?  I doubt it.  Last time I did this on mine it took a whole grease cartridge before grease emerged from the bottom of the neck and none came out of the top.  I suspect it never even reached the top bearing, and what, if any reached the bottom bearing mostly just surrounded it and was not actuality forced through the bearing like it needs to be.  I guarantee you taking it apart and properly packing the bearings will give you a better result and is probably why Harley removed the grease fitting.  And yes, doing it this way involves a lot of work.

[pauly]

Haha I get that!
Just recently, I serviced a friends 2008 rocker, and it had never had the steering head greased. As I pumped and pumped, eventually, a bunch of rust and crud was forced out of the steering head and eventually replaced by nice gooey, clean grease. Get onto it! 😂

Thanks
Pauly

It's on my list, but it's only 12 years old with 60,000 miles on it. I'll get to it, eventually........

[Dan89flstc]

I think a lot of people who miss the grease fitting on the steering head have never disassembled a steering head and saw that the top bearing often got no grease.

I think the reason the fitting went away (beside the fact it often was just a placebo) was because the MoCo made the bikes so heavy they determined that the bearings needed to be inspected every 25,000 miles.

The fairing does not have to be removed to repack steering head bearings.

[pauly]

Hi Dan89flstc,

I disagree with the grease not getting to the top bearing. In my experience, the pressure it takes to push the grease through the bottom bearing, forces the grease to reach the top one eventually. May not be true with all bikes but certainly with mine it has been. There is a way to repack the bearings without removing the fairing? Please tell me more...I just cannot see how that could be done on this new bike.
Admittedly, it's only days old, which gives me some time to figure it out 😁, but I'd love to be educated.

Thanks
Pauly

I think a lot of people who miss the grease fitting on the steering head have never disassembled a steering head and saw that the top bearing often got no grease.

I think the reason the fitting went away (beside the fact it often was just a placebo) was because the MoCo made the bikes so heavy they determined that the bearings needed to be inspected every 25,000 miles.

The fairing does not have to be removed to repack steering head bearings.

[Hossamania]

In the old days, a trick was to wrap the bottom bearing with a rope or shoestring to keep the grease from pushing out and force it into the top bearing.
Then, when hot, the grease leaks down the left fork when parked, and more than one tube has been rebuilt to fix a leaking fork seal that was not leaking.

[smoserx1]

There is a way to repack the bearings without removing the fairing? Please tell me more...I just cannot see how that could be done on this new bike.

Don't know if it the same on your bike but on mine the fairing is held on with 2 brackets, and each bracket attaches to the triple tree upper and lower sections.  To get the bearings out the top nut and adjuster would have to come off and then the steering stem & bottom bearing would drop down along with the lower triple tree section.  It should require unbolting just the lower part of the fairing brackets to drop the stem.  The forks would have to come out but I cannot see why the fairing would need removing.  I got a new set of bearings plus all the tools to change the races, but I just haven't gotten around to it...maybe this coming winter.

[fbn ent]

In the old days, a trick was to wrap the bottom bearing with a rope or shoestring to keep the grease from pushing out and force it into the top bearing.
Then, when hot, the grease leaks down the left fork when parked, and more than one tube has been rebuilt to fix a leaking fork seal that was not leaking.

I have pushed enough grease into my '02 to get it coming out the top. I used some Amsoil heavy grease that they recommended. Been a few years (probably too many) and none has ever appeared. Even the heat in South Dakota annually hasn't caused it.

[pauly]

Hi smoserx1,

I also have no idea at this stage. I've not yet got the service manual, so I'll wait for that before I start checking things out.

Thanks
Pauly

There is a way to repack the bearings without removing the fairing? Please tell me more...I just cannot see how that could be done on this new bike.

Don't know if it the same on your bike but on mine the fairing is held on with 2 brackets, and each bracket attaches to the triple tree upper and lower sections.  To get the bearings out the top nut and adjuster would have to come off and then the steering stem & bottom bearing would drop down along with the lower triple tree section.  It should require unbolting just the lower part of the fairing brackets to drop the stem.  The forks would have to come out but I cannot see why the fairing would need removing.  I got a new set of bearings plus all the tools to change the races, but I just haven't gotten around to it...maybe this coming winter.

[pauly]

Hi Hoss,
You must be as old as me...poor bugger!
Thanks
Pauly

In the old days, a trick was to wrap the bottom bearing with a rope or shoestring to keep the grease from pushing out and force it into the top bearing.
Then, when hot, the grease leaks down the left fork when parked, and more than one tube has been rebuilt to fix a leaking fork seal that was not leaking.

I have pushed enough grease into my '02 to get it coming out the top. I used some Amsoil heavy grease that they recommended. Been a few years (probably too many) and none has ever appeared. Even the heat in South Dakota annually hasn't caused it.

[pauly]

Hi fbn,

Me too. The bottom leaks sooner, but if I keep pumping, eventually the top does too.
Thanks
Pauly

In the old days, a trick was to wrap the bottom bearing with a rope or shoestring to keep the grease from pushing out and force it into the top bearing.
Then, when hot, the grease leaks down the left fork when parked, and more than one tube has been rebuilt to fix a leaking fork seal that was not leaking.

I have pushed enough grease into my '02 to get it coming out the top. I used some Amsoil heavy grease that they recommended. Been a few years (probably too many) and none has ever appeared. Even the heat in South Dakota annually hasn't caused it.

[Breeze]

Neck bearings get 90 degrees of movement a couple of times a ride, and then very slowly. IMO fresh grease is more of a corrosion preventative than lubrication need.