KNOWLEDGABLE T-MAX TUNER, CLOSE TO RICHMOND, VA

Started by Quick_2s, November 28, 2008, 09:01:57 AM

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Quick_2s

Well I'm definitely going to have to remove the plug in the end of the baffle as V&H suggested I can definitely feel it choking the motor at 3k and above it feels like riding into mud at anything higher than that. Idle is smooth as silk and has a good lunge up to about 2700 though.
The only stupid question is the one not asked!

FLTRI

"choking the motor at 3k and above it feels like riding into mud at anything higher than that"

Are you exaggerating? The difference between the baffles will come into play above 5000rpm, and it should actually feel great till then and only feel like it is falling off a bit higher than that.

If you are really having issues above 3000rpms you may be sumping as you have described what an engine feels like when the flywheels are bathing in oil in the crankcase.

To prove the point simply remove the baffle and see how it accelerates above 3000rpms. If it just screams above 3000 without the baffle I will stand corrected.
Bob
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

Quick_2s

I ran it Wednesday ( look back about 4 posts) before the baffle I had ordered came in and It was spinning the tire at roll on in first repeatedly. The guy I talked to at V&H said that the pipe was designed around an 88 platform and with mine (114, heads, hi-lift cams, larger TB, velocity stack..... bla, bla, bla, I would need to open it up more by removing the cap in the front of the baffle. you guys are more exspierienced that me what do you think?
The only stupid question is the one not asked!

Quick_2s

Knocked out the end cap took it for a 10 mile little skip, the torque jump is phenomenal, I always hated the look of a 2-1 pipe but the increase is beyond me even arguing I'm sold. Now I just have to come up with a way to get the power to the ground without spinning the tire. Hopefully I can get it on a dyno for at least a baseline pull early next week and unless I miss my guess the tuning issues I was having may have just been a lack of back pressure and a good set of pipes. 
The only stupid question is the one not asked!

FLTRI

Quote from: Quick_2s on December 12, 2008, 03:04:27 PM
Knocked out the end cap took it for a 10 mile little skip, the torque jump is phenomenal, (So no more "feels like riding into mud" above 3000rpm?) I always hated the look of a 2-1 pipe but the increase is beyond me even arguing I'm sold. Now I just have to come up with a way to get the power to the ground without spinning the tire (upshift?). Hopefully I can get it on a dyno for at least a baseline pull early next week and unless I miss my guess the tuning issues I was having may have just been a lack of back pressure (the stock V&H baffle definitely provides backpressure and should work faily well to at least 5000rpm)and a good set of pipes.   :up: :up:
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

Quick_2s

There is definitely no more "mud" feel, and on the upshift thing I get what your saying its just odd that from a normal rolling start out of a red light and I get up to about 15 then "ROLL" into it about quickly it breaks traction. Now it has been cold (30's-40) when I have been doing these test runs could the cold temp of the tire compound be part of whats causing this? Its supposed to be in the upper 60's on Monday so I'll be able to somewhat answer that myself I guess.

On a side note is it normal to have some fuel vapor coming through your crankcase breather directly after a prolonged idle warm-up in say low 30's temp. It concerned me a bit so I googled it and I saw a few comments on some other chats that an injected bike can do this under these condition. And if so how is it getting there? Cold piston to cylinder wall tolerance greater when that cold maybe?
The only stupid question is the one not asked!

FLTRI

"fuel vapor coming through your crankcase breather"
If you have an open beather (to the atmosphere) certainly the overly rich cold-running condition can and will pas by the rings and cause some vapors to expell. This would not be an issue,nor noticed if the breathers were vented to the intake. If you had a tuning device (SERT,SEST,TTS,D/L) that you could change the warm-up enrichment with, you could reduce a bit of it @ real low temps and that will prolly eliminate the vapors.
It is not anything to worry about since is it just vapors that will burn off, unless it persists once the engine in warm.
JMHO, Bob
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open

Quick_2s

The t-max has a AFR correction vs. Engine temp graph would that do the same thing?
The only stupid question is the one not asked!

FLTRI

Quote from: Quick_2s on December 14, 2008, 02:41:09 PM
The t-max has a AFR correction vs. Engine temp graph would that do the same thing?
It should.
The best we've experienced is the best we know
Always keep eyes and mind open