Does your bagger handle like a drunken camel in a sand storm?

[Durwood]

Nice Job Max

[Admiral Akbar]

Good to know Max.  Having your bike up to spec is the first step.  How did you align your bike?  Did you use one of the HD or Georges tools or did you use levels?  I bought one of the Georges tools and have it on my list to do this winter.  Oh and great job fabbing your own bracket and mount!

I get the front and rear wheel lined up on the lift and the bike level.. I use a cross hair laser mounted to a straight bar to set rear tire alignment with the front and a digital protractor on the rotors to align the wheels vertically.. I've also used levels for the vertical alignment but the protractor is easier to handle.

If you are talking about the 740050 shown here..

http://georges-garage.com/chassis_tools.htm

I'm not to hot on that one.. It's more a production tool to get the alignment close during bike assembly.. My bet it's what they use on the assembly line as it does not take into account tolerances in mounting points on the frame in relation to the front end..

Max

[14Frisco]

...and the bike level..

How do you determine the bike is level?

[Admiral Akbar]

The 2 tools.



I use 2 small c clamps mounted to the front brake rotors with scales rubber banded to them and pushed up against the rotor. Set the distance equal on both sides.

Max

[DOM]

Yup, that's the one.  HD has one just like it for the dealers to use and that is their procedure in the manual along with a method using alignment bars?.  The one for the tool is referred to as method A and the other, method B.  I supposed they both work pretty well.  I was told that where the tool bolts to the chassis is a datum point and is VERY accurate assuming no frame damage.  That of course may be the fly in the ointment.  If your bike has been hit, there might be unnoticed frame issues which could affect alignment.  I'm speculating on that one though!

[Admiral Akbar]

...and the bike level..

How do you determine the bike is level?

Off the front rotor after I have the front end straight with the rear.. The front wheel is in the wheel vise and use a jack under the frame at the cross member. I slide the frame back and forth on the jack until the front is lined up then shim under the jack until it's level or close to it.. The digital level as a zero so it's not so important.. When using a machinist level and square, it needs to be closer but only close enough to gauge where the bubble is.

Yup, that's the one.  HD has one just like it for the dealers to use and that is their procedure in the manual along with a method using alignment bars?.  The one for the tool is referred to as method A and the other, method B.  I supposed they both work pretty well.  I was told that where the tool bolts to the chassis is a datum point and is VERY accurate assuming no frame damage.  That of course may be the fly in the ointment.  If your bike has been hit, there might be unnoticed frame issues which could affect alignment.  I'm speculating on that one though!

It would be interesting to see how the 2 compare..  Especially on a chassis that has issues. One issue I'd have is that the special tool references on the center of a cast block and the cast block has some slop mounted on the frame..  When adding in tolerances in the swing arm and frame the errors can increase.. The thing about using a laser and level is that the alignment is done end to end so the only error is what is in the measurement and no tolerance build up issues..

Assuming that the special tool is used in production and possible tolerance issues might explain why some baggers handle better than others..

Max

[DOM]

I don't know if it is used in production or just repair.  I'd be curious to hear too.  I guess what would be the ultimate was be to align a bike with the tool, then check it with your lasers.

[Admiral Akbar]

I don't know if it is used in production or just repair.  I'd be curious to hear too.  I guess what would be the ultimate was be to align a bike with the tool, then check it with your lasers.

If it was used it would have to be for 08 bikes and before.. The new chassis doesn't have any adjustments as far as I can tell.. The newer bikes use donuts inn the front like the ones on the swingarm.. No adjustment there..  Even the top motor mount is a solid link..

Max

[DOM]

I have a 2005 so that should work. It is strange the new bikes wouldn't have any adjustment.

[mlemay]

I know this is an old thread, maybe no one will get a notice when I post to it, but I will see. 

I'm wondering if people that have had the glide pro in for a few years are still happy with them?
Also, how often should the glide pro parts be replaced, compared to stock?

[Y2KRKNG]

I know this is an old thread, maybe no one will get a notice when I post to it, but I will see. 

I'm wondering if people that have had the glide pro in for a few years are still happy with them?
Also, how often should the glide pro parts be replaced, compared to stock?

I've been running the GP frnt mount for a yr or so and still love it. Don't plan on even replacing it, and I'm low-middle age. Added the "stiffies" to the rear mounts as a "Band-Aid" to my ageing early style swing-arm pivot shaft bushings. It's good enough for now but I really should have bit the bullet on the whole GP set.

[Buffalo]

 Have you seen the videos of the productions lines at HD! I doubt if anything gets "Lined" up as in actually adjusted, everything will be pre-set and assembled and hope for the best.
They certainly don't take the time ($$) to check every bike with accurate lasers.. they'd be backed up for miles on the line.
I doubt if one in 20 HD Pro mechanics would know how to do it, or care.  LOL 
Max will ask me to leave again!!  Buffalo