Can a hub assembly be replaced on a Cast Wheel?

[Glide-Rider]

I went and picked up my new rotors for the front wheel.  A friend came along too.  We got home and I marked the old rotors and wheel with a black felt pen so I knew where to place the new ones went.  Lined up the new rotors with old and marked the new rotors as well.  I removed the disk brake screws on one side and "friend' said I will clean up the old threads with your tap and die set.  Before I could say, "NO." he was using a 3/8-16 bottom end tap to clean up the threads.  I stopped him and told him that they were 5/16-18 and not 3/8-16.  He had one of the old bolts in a 3/8-16 die and said, "Look it fits."  I then took the 5/16-18 die out and showed him the difference in fit.  He apologized and went home.  No sense in getting mad or upset.  It won't fix the assembly hub..  Open to any suggestions...  Thanks   

[FSG]

How many holes had he cleaned before you stopped him ?

[HenryJ]

This won't help now but it might save someone else. 
When cleaning bolt holes with a die you risk damaging the threads because a tap is built to cut.  A wad of dirt or locktite can get the tap off center and damage or completely destroy the threads. 
In my tool and die days I would take the bolt to the bench grinder and cut a flute in the end of it.  It didn't need to be pretty just use the corner of the wheel to cut a notch in the first couple of threads.  This "flute" would clean the hole without risk of damaging the threads.  If you can use the actual bolt and just leave it when done you will have no issues with wrong size or threads.

[FSG]

   HD actually market a bolt specially to clean the threaded holes. 

[Sonny S.]

again...I know this doesn't help you now...but I have a set of these that work great, and ya can't beat em for $15
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900200/?rtype=10

[Ed Y]

I'll 2nd what Sonny said. I've had a "thread chaser" set for lots of years. It's invaluable in cleaning threads. Lots of companies market them. Here's an example from Sears:

http://www.mysears.com/Craftsman-48-pc-SAE-amp-Metric-Thread-Restorer-Kit-reviews

Tap and die sets should only be used to initially create threads.

Glide-rider:  If he only screwed up one, a keen-sert might be the answer. Never heard of anyone replacing a hub assembly on a cast wheel.

[PoorUB]

Is there enough meat in the hub to repair the thread with a Keensert?

Look up "thread insert locking" at McMasterCarr.com

[Evo160K]

Glide-Rider
Here's a good site for inserts if that's the way you decide to go.  They have all sizes/lengths inserts, even a special kit for installing h-d head bolts in cases where the threads have given way..  I've used them several times.  Iiwy I would call and discuss the situation.

                     http://www.timesert.com/html/inchsert.html

[Glide-Rider]

Thanks for all the good advice..  He was on his second one when I caught him, "trying to help."  He is a good guy, a little slow but has a good heart..  Just gets a little excited from time to time..  Loves motorcycles.  Lives with his parents..  I forgot about using inserts, I have used them before...  The one's I have are in a kit with the proper drill included in kit..  I knew it was nothing to really to get excited over.  I will call him tomorrow and let him know it will be OK...   Thanks again for everyone's suggestion and concern..   Hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving...

[Sonny S.]

Even Heli-Coils will be fine for that.

[FSG]

Even Heli-Coils will be fine for that.

+1  , I was more concerned with the number of holes.

[Glide-Rider]

I have been looking around and left a couple of "contact me" notices.  Heli-Coils kits, can I use existing new Torx disk screws?  Can I get a kit to reduce 3/8-16 to 5/16-18?  I take it any auto parts store may carry them?

[Glide-Rider]

Evo160k,
I went to the web site you suggested and it looks like that may work.  I tried to leave an email on their page and it said to call them on phone.  Will call on Monday.  Thanks..

[Sonny S.]

good point ....I forgot about it being 3/8 now. 

other than trying a 3/8 bolt you might have to use a Timesert

[FSG]

I think you will find the rear rotor bolts P/N 43567-92 are  3/8"-16 x 1"  with a lock patch, while screw P/N 4163 that hold your floorboard brackets, etc, on are also 3/8"-16 x 1" , but dont have the lock patch. 

So why not use one of them instead ?   

Just had a thought. The head diameter of the 3/8"-16 bolts is .720" whereas the head diameter of the 5/16-18 bolts is .600" , this would only be a problem with stock rotors that have the holes recessed for the bolt head.  As you have new rotors I'd expect that there would not be a recess so you could use a bolt with a larger dia head.

[Justpassingas]

I have been looking around and left a couple of "contact me" notices.  Heli-Coils kits, can I use existing new Torx disk screws?  Can I get a kit to reduce 3/8-16 to 5/16-18?  I take it any auto parts store may carry them?

3/8 equals .375 (O.D. of tap)  and assuming the I.D. of the tapped hole is now around .375 in diameter at its biggest points you would need a "Q" drill which measures .332 dia. for a helicoil insert so in theory that hole wouldn't clean up......althought the price of a drill and insert might be worth the try and if all else fails....


What about welding the hole shut,use the rotor as a template and drill and tap a new hole???....I've had the holes for the exhaust studs on shovelheads when they stripped out welded up and then put helicoils in.....

http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-tap-helicoil.htm

[ClassicRider2002]

  HD actually market a bolt specially to clean the threaded holes.

FSG-

Does HD have several of these "particular" bolts for all of the various sizes of threaded bolt holes, is there a specific part number for these bolts?  If so do you have a reference to them some where please, thank you.

Regards,

"Classic"

[ClassicRider2002]

again...I know this doesn't help you now...but I have a set of these that work great, and ya can't beat em for $15
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900200/?rtype=10

Sonny I took a peek at what you "LINKED" above does that cover all the sizes  we need for our bikes or are there some addtional ones still needed, and if so where do you find those, and which sizes would still be needed?

Regards,

"Classic"

[Sonny S.]

Classic,
That set covers most applications. I have a few misc chasers as well, can't think of sizes off hand. Fine thread stuff. I have pieced together stuff over the years
The Sears kit Ed listed is nice and can be used on bolts/studs also.

http://www.mysears.com/Craftsman-48-pc-SAE-amp-Metric-Thread-Restorer-Kit-reviews

[autoworker]

Here is an option.
http://www.newmantools.com/kee.htm

[HenryJ]

Sonny I took a peek at what you "LINKED" above does that cover all the sizes  we need for our bikes or are there some addtional ones still needed, and if so where do you find those, and which sizes would still be needed?

As I stated earlier.  You can grind a notch in the first few threads of a bolt and it will work fine for cleaning threads.
Quick, easy, and free, especialy for the odd size no one seems to make a thread chaser for.

[Glide-Rider]

Fatboy Sir Garfield,
I replaced the OEM rotors with OEM rotors.  They are countersunk rotors.  Part # 44156-00 Front Brake Disk Left & Part #44136-00 Front Brake Disk Right.  So the rear disk bolts that are 3/8 will not work due to the OEM rotors are countersunk only for a 5/16?  Thanks for everyone's help on this.   

[truck]

You could grind the head of the 3/8" screw down to fit the counterbore. I don't know if the height of the head would cause any problems though.

[Glide-Rider]

Truck,
I do not see any height issues or I am not aware of any.  This has never happened before and really don't want to purchase a new cast wheel.  I would take a "take off" if it is in OK condition.  Thanks for your suggestion on grinding down screw.  I guess I would take to a machine shop so it would be done properly.  That is all I need for them to back out and say, "Was that my rotor passing me?"  LOL...

[Evo160K]

Glide-Rider,
By chance, did you see the "Big-Serts" on the Time-Cert website?  They're for repairing holes that have been made larger, for whatever reason.  They have a thicker wall.  When you talk with them, they may suggest the Big-Cert.  Here's that link:
         http://www.timesert.com/html/bigsert.html