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1988 Sporty Knock/Ping (videos inside)

Started by 88sporty, August 17, 2012, 04:12:40 PM

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88sporty

So this problem has been plaguing me recently and I was recommended this site so here it is. I've got a 1988 sporty 883 with the 1200 kit done by the previous owner. I was riding from DE to VA and noticed a helacious noise coming from what I believe to be my front jug, here is the video I took of it when it was in full swing:

knock

Now here is the breakdown of what happens. When the bike starts cold it sounds like every other Evo out there, kind of chattery but no noticeable knocks or pings, starts on the first try, idles just fine. Once you start to ride it and it warms up (usually takes about 15-20 minutes) his knock/ping comes out. It starts off slowly, only audible at idle. In the beginning it will hit two or three times (like ping-ping-ping) in succesion, sometimes like ping-ping----------ping (spaced out a bit). Then after a few more minutes of doing that it will become audible when I at higher rpms, and then disappear when I shift. By the end of the ride when the bike is fully warm it will become a constant noise. Here is a video of the tail end of a 30 minute ride from the other night:

knock2

So to premptively answer some questions: I recently (two months ago) changed the oil to Amsoil 20w50. I have no idea what it was running previously, but I can tell you that after changing the oil the bike ran completely different, I even had to readjust the idle because it was idling much higher after the change, maybe I should go to a heavier weight oil? Or possibly switch to some conventional? I have no clue what the mileage on this bike, it hasn't been recorded in years and has no odometer. That's about all I can think f right now, ask away and I'll answer to the best of my abilities. Similarly, is there anyone in Hampton Roads, VA who might want to give me a hand with this? I am military and am currently living on base with no place to really tear the enging apart, I am planning on taking the top of the rocker box off today to see what I can see but if I have to go further I might be SOL. Thanks in advance for anyone who can shed some light on this!

John

Panzer


John,
Have you checked for exhaust manifold leaks, both front and back?
Even check along all the piping connections?
Yes I heard the ticking/popping.
I'm just saying that this is a start point.
As more read your post and listen, more will chime in.
Hold tight on the teardown.
Help is on the way. :up:
Everyone wants to change the world but, no one wants to change the toilet paper.

88sporty

Haven't checked that yet, would that cause this problem? Thanks for the help.

kik

Well not saying it's what  is but my old 77 ironhead sounded the same way just before it dropped a valve..I opened it up and found the pistons had worn grooves in the cyl walls so I just did a complete top end. Like I said not saying that's it but it does sound Valve related to me.

88sporty

Quote from: kik on August 17, 2012, 06:30:40 PM
Well not saying it's what  is but my old 77 ironhead sounded the same way just before it dropped a valve..I opened it up and found the pistons had worn grooves in the cyl walls so I just did a complete top end. Like I said not saying that's it but it does sound Valve related to me.

That is among the things I suspect to be the culprit, would it be intermittent like mine is? If so, any idea what would cause that?

kik

Quote from: 88sporty on August 17, 2012, 06:58:38 PM
Quote from: kik on August 17, 2012, 06:30:40 PM
Well not saying it's what  is but my old 77 ironhead sounded the same way just before it dropped a valve..I opened it up and found the pistons had worn grooves in the cyl walls so I just did a complete top end. Like I said not saying that's it but it does sound Valve related to me.

That is among the things I suspect to be the culprit, would it be intermittent like mine is? If so, any idea what would cause that?

Yeah mine was intermittent ... What had actually happened was the valve keeper had come loose so the valve was sliding in and out most of the time it would stay up but every once in awhile it would drop  and it would hit the pis(Hence the Ping) I road it about 300 miles like that before it busted loose completely. Got stranded about 100 miles from home.

mayor

I agree with these guys.  Your problem difinately sounds mechanical.  Have you pull the plugs to see what they look like?  Sometimes the plugs will show whether or not you have valve issuse. 

Quote from: 88sporty on August 17, 2012, 06:10:01 PM
Quote from: Panzer on August 17, 2012, 06:07:06 PM

Have you checked for exhaust manifold leaks, both front and back?
Even check along all the piping connections?
Yes I heard the ticking/popping.

Haven't checked that yet, would that cause this problem? Thanks for the help.
start with something simple.  Check to make sure that the exhaust flange nuts are tight.  Do not over tighten, these studs will break easy. I don't have the tq specs for your bike, but I think you would be ok to check an initial at 80 inch/lbs, then tighten to 100 inch/lbs. Note- this is inch/lbs, not foot/lbs.  If you don't have one already, I would suggest picking up a long 1/4" drive wobble extension (home depot carries these).  I've found that a 1/4" drive with a wobble extension is the easiest way to tighten exhaust flange nuts.  Be careful that you don't but side load on these stubs, they can break.   You will need a 1/2" socket for the nuts, so you may have to pick one of these up since most 1/4" drive sets only go to 7/16" (Sears carries a 1/2" socket in 1/4" drive). 

If you exhaust flange nuts are tight, then you may want to pull the pipes to see if the ports show any signs of exhaust leak or the e-valves show any sign of problems. 


btw, welcome to the forum John! 
warning, this poster suffers from bizarre delusions

Dan89flstc

August 18, 2012, 08:47:05 AM #7 Last Edit: August 18, 2012, 09:04:04 AM by Dan89flstc
You have 20w50 oil in the engine, so you are fine as far as oil type goes. Don`t get distracted from the real problem by worrying about what type oil you are using...

From the sound on the video, It sounds like valvetrain clatter, most likely a bad lifter, or low oil pressure. If you keep running the engine, you may cause some real damage, so it needs to be addressed immediately.

Does the engine have adjustable pushrods?  A pushrod adjusted incorrectly so that the lifter is near the top of its travel could be the culprit...

Hopefully someone in your area will have a space on their garage lift to help you out.

Don`t run the engine any more, it will not help with diagnosis, but it may cause damage.
US Navy Veteran
A&P Mechanic

88sporty

Alright took the rocker box off what am I looking for in here?

mayor

did you check for an exhaust leak first?

did you pull the plugs and look at them?

if you have a jack, raise the bike so the rear wheel will spin, then rotate the wheel with the bike in 4th gear until your rockers are applying the least pressure on your valves (you are looking for the flats of the cams), then check to make sure that your rocker bolts are not loose.  If all is tight there, you will likely have to dig deeper.  This may be an issue if you don't have a garage, since you don't want any weather to get into your engine. 
warning, this poster suffers from bizarre delusions

Billy

Definitly check the exhaust first. Sounds more like valvetrain noise.

I'm in Va. Beach but won't be available 'till Monday. I'll send you a PM with cell number if you need it.

Billy
Lazyness is the Mother of Invention

88sporty

Alright so I checked the exhaust as well, all was tight with no apparent issues. The spark plugs didn't look great, the front was a bit redder than the rear and the rear has a bit of build up on it. I just took the top of the box off and this is what I found after messing around for a bit:

rocker

I'm guessing this might be my problem. What do you guys think? Bad rocker bearing? Sorry for being so new to all of this.

Billy

I think your lifter may be giving up, rocker shouldn't move laterally that easily. End play shouldn't be more than about .013-.015, check with feeler gauge.
Lazyness is the Mother of Invention

Dan89flstc

I don`t think it has anything to do with the axial movement of the rocker shaft. It sounds like excessive valve lash.
US Navy Veteran
A&P Mechanic

slypig

Most miitary bases have an auto hobby shop that u should be able to use.

Slypig
Panama City Fl

88sporty

OK so we are basically talking about a complete disassembly here, correct? Well this is going to be fun, haha. Anyone have any good write-ups or anything that I could refer to when doing this? And Billy, I think I may just need your help, haha.

Billy

If it's just a lifter, it's not a big job.
Lazyness is the Mother of Invention

88sporty

Ok so how do I check if it is a lifter? I'm assuming I have to go deeper than I am right now. What are the steps other than just starting to unbolt things? Anything I need to be specifically wary of?

Dan89flstc

Before you get any deeper, you really should have a service manual, to keep you from getting into trouble during re assembly.

Here`s a rough rundown of what you will be doing:

Remove spark plugs, so that it is easy to rotate engine. You might want to support the bike with the rear wheel off the ground, turning the back wheel is the easiest way to rotate the engine

Rotate engine until both cams of the cylinder you are working on are at the low point, you can watch the rockers while rotating the engine to see when they are at the low point.

Remove top and center rocker box details.

Remove the bolts holding the lower rocker supports evenly and slowly.

Remove rocker shafts.

Remove rocker arms.

Remove lower rocker box.

Lift out the pushrods, remove pushrod covers.

Remove bolt holding lifter block, and remove lifter block. You might want to put a magnet on the lifter as you lift the block out, to keep the lifter from dropping in.

Keep track of the hardware as you remove it, there are different length bolts. Zip loc bags and a sharpie are your friends...

It is important to follow the service manual when re assembling the valve train parts, if you get out of sequence you could wind up with a bent valve.


US Navy Veteran
A&P Mechanic

88sporty

I will undoubtedly be getting a service manual. Thanks for the help, hopefully I'll be able to find somewhere to work on her so I'm not tearing the engine completely apart in a parking lot, haha. Just to have an estimate, what do you think it would cost to have a shop do this? Or let's say it is a bad lifter, how much are the parts to replace it and where's a good place can they be purchased?

Dan89flstc

Forgot something,

Thank you for your service.
US Navy Veteran
A&P Mechanic

andyxlh

August 19, 2012, 03:26:48 PM #21 Last Edit: August 19, 2012, 07:12:22 PM by andyxlh
Hello mate,
I'd agree that it is most likely a bad lifter. they either fail to pump up and/or the bearing on the bottom of them goes bad. This causes the intermittent chattering you mention, which just gets worse and starts breaking things. All will become apparent when you get it apart. as already has been detailed, you don't need to do a full engine tear down, just remove the rockerbox and pushrod assemblies then the pushrod tubes and lifter blocks. gently easing off the lower box is very important - there are a few small bolts to remove first then 4 big bolts to remove, and do the big ones a little at a time.
You really must replace all 4 lifters - they are not that expensive, about $60 each here in Australia, probably less where u are.
I'd allow about 1/2 day to do this job if you have not done it before and you have a reasonable tool selection. Torque settings, as already has been mentioned, are important, and the lifter blocks which you will remove from the cases sometimes need a smear of gasket goo as well as the o rings to stop them leaking.
Check the pushrods are straight by rolling them on glass - I use the plates of glass in the coffee table when my wife is out. she isn't reading this is she? a bent pushrod could cause this rattling, but if the mileage is unknown a new set of lifters is a great idea anyway.
Check the lifter blocks for scoring and wear - if the lifter is not a good fit in the bore the oil might not be forced through it and perhaps it won't pump up, but that would have to be an obvious bit of damage. your sporty engine is unique in that if that happens they can be replaced. I have over 100000mi on my blocks and they are still OK.
to really identify it before teardown i have found it useful to listen down the shaft of a screwdriver, this will show up which lifter is clattering the most.
When you put the rockers back in, swap the rocker pins inlet for exhaust. this will reverse the wear side, and might tighten them up a bit.
As has been suggested, continuing to run the engine is not a great idea.
your bike runs the same lifters as the evo big twins, they are not the same as the 5-speed sportsters

Andy

BTW in '03 i swapped to Amsol, which I'm sure is a great product, went for a long ride across country on my 50,000 mi '89 xlh and blew the crank pin out. Probably just a coincidence but there u go.
At about 80,000 miles I had a lifter go and the roller at the bottom dropped pins all through the cams, ruining the oil pump and the cams. Horrid mess, luckily I took a chance and didn't rebuild the crank (it was done after the blow-up above!) but even so this was an expensive and time consuming exercise, so now I'm a bit more on the preventative maintenence......... older but perhaps a little wiser!
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a roll of Duck tape then you're in trouble

88sporty

Hey guys thanks for all of the help on this. I ordered some Ultima lifters, I hope they'll work OK, they seemed to get decent reviews and the price was right (all 4 for $103 shipped). I have the bike pretty much torn down but have kind of run into a bit of an issue. I took the top of the box apart with the help of a friend but can't seem to get the lifter blocks out. They look as though they are designed to be removed with the jug still intact but when you lift up on them they contact the fins of the jug and cannot be lifted out. I am assuming I'll have to pull the entire jug assembly off to get them out, after that is there anything you guys might replace in there just because? Thanks again for the help, and I will definitely take that advice on checking to see if the pushrods are bent.

andyxlh

Hello mate
DON'T lift them vertically - you need to rotate them 1/4 turn - I can't remember which way - and then lift them free. They can come out without removing the barrels - I have done it.
sorry but I don't have the workshop manual at hand at the moment, but it does detail the removal procedure. you will need to hook the lifters up into the blocks with a bit of thin wire in the holes at the top or a strong magnet and they come out with the blocks if I remember right.
check the rollers on the end of the old lifters carefully. If they have lost any of the rollers I consider pulling the cam case and oil pump to see where they have gone...
where did you get the lifters for that price?
cheers
Andy
If you can't fix it with a hammer and a roll of Duck tape then you're in trouble

88sporty

OK cool thanks a lot I'm hopefully gonna be finishing this up tonight if all goes well. And I bought the lifters from debrix cycles.