Speakers, Amp and Rings are in....

[Blowby]

Speaker level inputs here.

[z71_fourwheelin]

Did that and now it is intermittent tried 5 turn offs and it popped twice unlike before where it was all 5 trys

[UltraNutZ]

Ok, process of elimination.  Now leave that ground where it is and connect a ground wire from the radio case to the amp case

[z71_fourwheelin]

Sorry Blowby.... Wasn't trying to hijack your thread. Just thought we had the same problem. I'll go to a PM if needed.

[Blowby]

No problem helping other members, I was always taught to share. 
I did remove some batting thickness and used the DMM with a 1000hz 0db wave to see where I was.
Calculated 24.495v and at what I thought was 3/4 volume (12bars of 15) would not let me get down below 28v. I dropped volume to 11 bars and set at 24.5 and it sounds real nice. Progression of setting to final setting where Gain was acquired by using sqrRT(300wx2r)=24.5v.

Just quick adjustment based on sound.
[attach=0]

After using the UN by Ear method.
[attach=1]

After the UN DMM method.
[attachimg=3]

[Blowby]

Still have pop only when turning off the ignition. I unplugged the input from Stereo to amp and no pop. With the amp input unplugged you can hear the radio shut off with the ignition, sounds like a light thud. This is whats transmitted to the amp and makes the pop.

Temporary pillow stuffing for the win. 
[attach=0]

[Riveroger]

Going to install the system tonight. Thanks UltraNutZ for your advice on the items for my 2003 (OEM stereo) upgrade on sound.

*Arc Audio 6.5" Speaker Adapter Rings
*Rockford Fosgate PBR300X2
*Infinity Kappa 6.5"
*BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit


[attach=0]

Need to look into setting up the funny dials and stuff...

The 8 Gauge wire is unnecessary and a pain in the ass to stuff in there ask me how I know, I used 10 Gauge no issues

[z71_fourwheelin]

After grounding each component, I'm down to the light power off thud. Thanks UN and Blowby

[Blowby]

Great Z71! Glad it resolved your pop.
I tried the ground wire from the rear of stereo to the terminal on the amp and no change. So I have stereo to amp terminal and stereo to amp frame.

[z71_fourwheelin]

My setup is now.... Amp grounded to battery. Amp casing grounded to frame and tied into amp battery ground.  Radio grounded to hawg wired interface and amp frame and frame.

[Blowby]

.... Also direct battery ground to amp terminal.

[UltraNutZ]

My setup is now.... Amp grounded to battery. Amp casing grounded to frame and tied into amp battery ground.  Radio grounded to hawg wired interface and amp frame and frame.

that my friend by all definitions is a ground loop that you've eliminated.  Now the "thud" from the head unit is going to be a bit harder to isolate but with a little patience it likely can be.  There are external devices that seem to work well at least when I've needed them they've worked.  The one I use is the Stinger SGN21.

[Blowby]

Ok based on z71's success the only ground wire I don't have in place is the "frame" to amp and stereo. Am I correct you mean motorcycle frame?

[z71_fourwheelin]

Yeah I'm connected at the old location of the handlebar bolt for grounding.

[Blowby]

Got it. I'll try that tonight.

[hdrolling]

Good read, this needs to be a sticky or a sticky made giving all these steps to try to trouble shoot.

[Blowby]

No success eliminating the pop on shut down with all the grounds below.

• 8g from amp terminal to battery.
• Amp frame to stereo.
• Motorcycle frame to stereo.
• Amp terminal to stereo.

I did redirect the tweeter pointing from 9:00 to 8:00 on the left and 3:00 to 4:00 on the right.
The tweeter button was pushed it using +3db so I clicked it out to 0db (sounds fuller and still crisp)
Still have AP set on the cross over and might try HP after the next ride when we have an opening in our weather.

Over all the sound is real good and very happy with the upgrade.

[z71_fourwheelin]

Only difference I see is you grounded from motorcycle frame to radio... try Motorcycle frame to amp frame instead of the stereo.

[Blowby]

Ok so I'll make that change from the motorcycle frame to the amp frame tonight. Picked up some 1/4 poly fill mat and will replace the pillow stuffing as well.

[Blowby]

Tried just about every combination of grounding and still have the pop. It's not bad at all so it must be just the stereo powering down amplified. I did wrap the speakers again and checked if the cross over from AP to HP sounded any better. I feel the AP delivers the best range of sound so it's all back and ready for a ride tomorrow.

Before:

[attach=0]

After:
[attach=1]

[z71_fourwheelin]

Let us know the results.

[UltraNutZ]

Tried just about every combination of grounding and still have the pop. It's not bad at all so it must be just the stereo powering down amplified. I did wrap the speakers again and checked if the cross over from AP to HP sounded any better. I feel the AP delivers the best range of sound so it's all back and ready for a ride tomorrow.

that looks great!

ok one more test for you.  Turn the HL adjust all the way up so that the amp never powers on with the radio.  Now take a jumper wire and stretch it from the rem connector on the power plug and tie it to the orange/red wire on your cig lighter on the one taped up on the headlamp harness.  Now when you turn your ignition on, the amp will come on instead of waiting for the inputs to sense voltage.

Let me know if the pop stops.

[Blowby]

Using your suggestion the amp will turn on but when I turn the ignition off to hear the pop the stereo, amp and the speedometer light stays on.

[UltraNutZ]

Ok so apparently cranking up the required V to turn the amp on via the speaker inputs doesn't shut it off altogether.  When the auto turn on is functioning, the REM on the RF amp is turned into a REM out to feed other amps you may have.  So what it's doing is feeding power back into your electrical system.  Go ahead and disconnect the REM wire.

[Blowby]

Added a third layer of polyfill around the speakers. Will try it out as soon as the snow melts, maybe this weekend