2015 FLHTK 4 speaker upgrade with Amp suggestions

[Coyote]

I currently have a 30 amp fuse going to my PN4.520D and it hasn't blown. IIRC, the amp has a 40 amp fuse.

Coyote, do you have any pics of amp wired up under the fairing?

Sorry the pic is not better.

[attach=0]

[UltraNutZ]

Bert.  look at the top of the audio section for how to set your gains on your amp.

[Bertk]

my testing on the 4.520D amp showed a max recorded amp draw of 8A.  These class D amps don't draw much current at all and lots of people blow this whole power/ground thing out of proportion with gargantuan sized wires such as 4ga and I've even seen 2ga.  Ridiculous at best.  Bigger is not always best.

Ok, good to know. 10-ga it is.

[ALUCARD19]

Instead of butt connectors you can just solder the wires together and then heat shrink them, that way they will not come apart
from the vibration.

[Bertk]

Instead of butt connectors you can just solder the wires together and then heat shrink them, that way they will not come apart from the vibration.

That will be my first option, but if I can't get to some of them butt connectors will be my second option.

[Bertk]

Sorry the pic is not better.[attach=0]

I did come across that pic and like the way you double shrink wrapped the wires going into the amp.

Where you able to solder the speaker connections?

[Bertk]

Bert.  look at the top of the audio section for how to set your gains on your amp.

If I saw that earlier I would have never started this project... 

Just kidding. I have a cheap DMM and seeing you did the math for the 520D I will give it a shot.

[Coyote]

Sorry the pic is not better.[attach=0]

I did come across that pic and like the way you double shrink wrapped the wires going into the amp.

Where you able to solder the speaker connections?

I chose this path. No cutting of the stock harness. Heat shrink over the whole connection.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDGA28/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDGA64/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are nice double crimp connectors. I have the correct ratcheting crimp tool that does two stepped crimps. This crimps the wire and also the insulation.

[Bertk]

I chose this path. No cutting of the stock harness. Heat shrink over the whole connection.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDGA28/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDGA64/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are nice double crimp connectors. I have the correct ratcheting crimp tool that does two stepped crimps. This crimps the wire and also the insulation.

So you wired the speakers directly to the amp without using the factory wiring, correct?
In this case did you loose the front/rear fade control on the HU?

How did you go from the HU to the amp without cutting wires?

[UltraNutZ]

the spade connectors in the links above from Coyote crimp to your input wires for amp.  the spade actually plugs into the stock speaker wire harness

[Coyote]

Also all my speakers are in front. I did not need the fader but if I had wanted it, I would have just crimped 4 more pin/wires to bring the rear channel to the amp (just removing the pins in the main harness). There is nothing wrong with cutting the stock wiring harness, it's just my preference to never do it if there is another way. The same company that makes the crimp spades above also makes the mating side that will plug on the speaker terminals.  So I did that as well.

[Bertk]

Ok, I have been over thinking this hole wiring thing. 

From what the instructions tell me, all I need is:
For Power
10ga Positive to battery & fuse holder with 25 amp fuse
10ga Negative to battery
16ga Remote wire connected to P&A terminal in headlight harness

For Speakers
Disconnect the speaker wires.
Run the speaker wires that comes out of the HU to the High Inputs on the amp using red male disconnect terminals that Coyote pointed out. Solder & shrink extra 16ga wire as needed for length.

Run 16ga wire from the amp speaker output screw downs to the speakers using the screw down terminals. I'll tin the wire ends for all the screw downs.

Using the OE wiring I should not loose fade or any other control functions.

Next week the speakers, amp are arriving.
The BA speaker grills are on order from Kutter HD.

[UltraNutZ]

you got it sir.  the remote wire can be just about anything.  very little voltage and even less amps running through it.  a single piece of that 16ga speaker wire is perfect.   

[Bertk]

Thanks UN, another question?
Do the male disconnect terminals work for the rear tour-pak speakers?

As far as I can tell the closest connection to the rear speakers is the Molex [162] connector. Is this where I tap into the rear speakers?

[UltraNutZ]

on the FLHTK if you look at the back of the head unit to the right, there is a separate connector there with the wires for the rear speakers.  You can tap in there.

[Bertk]

on the FLHTK if you look at the back of the head unit to the right, there is a separate connector there with the wires for the rear speakers.  You can tap in there.

That's good to know. I didn't see them in the service manual wiring schematics.

What it does show is the wire colors going to the rear speakers (LBE - LBE/BK - LBE/O - LBE/GY) so I should be looking for a connector with these color wires?

[Coyote]

Radio pin out for the 2015 radio.

[attach=0]

[PosseRider]

Can these speakers be used without an amp ? infinity kappa 6211i  and what reflash to the radio needs to be done?

[UltraNutZ]

speakers only, no flash needed.  simply replace the stockers and yes they'll work perfectly fine for the fairing.  if you have rear pods because of the design change of the pod/controls location you'll have to use a shallower speaker such as the kicker CS674 back there.

[PosseRider]

I do have the rear pods forgot to mention it is an Ultra low.  Thanks for the quick response  Just noticed on a web site, says the kickers are 4ohm,  i thought the 2015 Ultra is 2 ohm ?

[Bertk]

speakers only, no flash needed.  simply replace the stockers and yes they'll work perfectly fine for the fairing.  if you have rear pods because of the design change of the pod/controls location you'll have to use a shallower speaker such as the kicker CS674 back there.

From post #4.

have never had to use the pod adapters.  and in fact the Kappas come with adapter rings that can me trimmed to space the speaker out about 1/4" if necessary.

Am I missing something?

[Bertk]

Radio pin out for the 2015 radio.
[attach=0]

Yes, that's where I got the wire colors from. I'll look for the connectors under the fairing next week when I take it apart.

[UltraNutZ]

I do have the rear pods forgot to mention it is an Ultra low.  Thanks for the quick response  Just noticed on a web site, says the kickers are 4ohm,  i thought the 2015 Ultra is 2 ohm ?

it is a 2 ohm setup correct but you can use a 4 ohm without issue.  You can get the Kappas in back there without issue as well if you want to use the spacers that come with them.  I myself have not had to the use the spacers but some report they've had to.   

[Bertk]

Going to bring the bike to the dealer for a radio flash before installing the PN4.520D AMP and 4 62.11i speakers on the 2015 FLHTK.
Am I correct that the flash needed: 
Set "AMP 1" and "AMP 2" to "No" and select "8 Speakers...." option as suggested by RF?

[Gannicus]

Correct.

8 speakers on
Amp 1 off
Amp 2 off
Fader Active,