2015 FLHTK 4 speaker upgrade with Amp suggestions

[Bertk]

Hello all,

I have read through several threads and hundreds of post on the subject. Now I need suggestions before I make a purchase.
After the speaker and Amp choice are made we can go into details I know I will need like radio flash, grills, wiring and whatever else I have missed.
I have never installed anything audio other than speakers.

Bike is a 2015 Ultra Limited.
Want to upgrade stock fearing & tourpak speakers and add an Amp.
Don't care about FM, never use it. I use HD SiriusXM and Flash Drive for music.
I would like better quality sound, (hear the words)  and more volume and some bass.
Would also like to keep fade between front and back.

I know Biketronics is a very good option, but does not fit the budget.

Speaker options I have narrowed it down to but not but open to suggestions.
Infinity Kappa 611i  2 ohm  &  Alpine SPR-60 6-1/2"  4 ohm.
1. Infinity Kappa 611i front and rear with adapters for tourpak.
2. Infinity Kappa 611i front and Alpine SPR-60 rear, no adapters needed

Amp option, open to suggestions.
Alpine MRV-F300 4-Channel  Amp. I think this amp will work with a mix of 2 & 4 ohm speakers?

[UltraNutZ]

you won't need adapters for tourpak with kappas, at least I never have.
no adapters needed for front speakers however you have 2 mounting options.  Either take the pods apart once they're out and mount the speakers on the inside and this will allow you to retain stock grills.  If not then mount from outside and you'll need to replace the stock grills with the boom audio grills.

I would use like speakers to get the best sound possible and that IMO should be the Kappa 62.11i.  I don't care too much for Alpine speakers, just not a full sound overall but that's just me.

as for amp, I would nix the MRV-F300 as it lacks in performance IMO, 75x4 is not much power at all in the grand scheme of things.  Installed one a few months ago and it was pulled out the following week.  since FM is not important to you, then you have many options that will fit in the fairing on top of the head unit.
RZ-2000D
PN4.520D
NVX JAD800.4 (drawback is not speaker level inputs but that can be overcome with line level to RCA adapters such as PAC SNI-15)
list goes on.

[Bertk]

Thanks for the info Nutz.
I'm going with 4 Kappa 62.11i speakers.
Just want to double check because I have read several posts where the Kappa speakers will bottom out in the 2014-2015 rear Tour-pak pods, and the V-Twin Tour-pak 6.5″ speaker pod adapter are needed.

As for the Amp I'm can't deside weather to go with the RZ-2000D or the PN4.520D.

[Gannicus]

Can't go wrong with either amp. Both awesome amps!

[UltraNutZ]

have never had to use the pod adapters.  and in fact the Kappas come with adapter rings that can me trimmed to space the speaker out about 1/4" if necessary.

[Bertk]

Thanks guys. Didn't mean to doubt you Nutz but there is just so much bad info floating around on the Other Side just wanted to make sure.

I ordered 4 Kappa 6211i speakers yesterday.

And have decided on the PN4.520D amp. Without knowing much about amps I based it on it's smaller size and lower watts. Maybe it will run cooler.

The next step is what else will I need for the install. I was going to watch the install videos on the other forum but they are gone. 

What will I need for wiring?

I see that 8 Ga wiring us used for the power along with an inline fuse, and the ground wire.
Is the CS Amplifier Power Harness Kit worth the $50?

I just found this Amp wiring kit on the Sonic Electronix site and like it better.

Can I splice into the rear speaker wires or should I run new ones?

[UltraNutZ]

man if there's anyone around that needs to be questioned every once in a while it's certainly me!   


The only other things you need for the install are


6' of 10ga power wire for + (8ga wire is overkill.  10ga copper wire is good for 40+A in the short run you're doing)
6' of 10ga power wire for - (to the battery)
inline fuse holder and 25a fuse.  That amp will never (unless it shorts out) draw more than 10a.


you're going to need rear inputs for your amp to maintain fader control so yes you'll want to tap into the existing speaker wires.  I'll get you the wiring colors and pin #s shortly for the rear speaker wires.

[Bertk]

Cool, I'll go with 10ga.

If I need to use but connectors to connect the speakers wires what gauge should I get? I want go get the good shrinkable ones. I'm putting an order into Sonic Electronix so I can do it all at once.

[UltraNutZ]

red - 18-22ga

[Bertk]

red - 18-22ga

Good. If I need extra wire for the speakers should I use 16 gauge?

[UltraNutZ]

if you go 16ga and need butt connectors you'll need to use the blue butt connectors.  In this case where you have an electrical connector larger than the wire (going from stock 20ga wire to a 16ga connector) strip back enough wire to twist it, then fold it in half and insert into connector and crimp.  Gives more surface area for the connector to grab onto.

[Bertk]

if you go 16ga and need butt connectors you'll need to use the blue butt connectors.  In this case where you have an electrical connector larger than the wire (going from stock 20ga wire to a 16ga connector) strip back enough wire to twist it, then fold it in half and insert into connector and crimp.  Gives more surface area for the connector to grab onto.

Then I should just get some 18 or 20ga wire, correct?

And where's a good local place to get 10ga power wire?

[ΚĜΗΟŜΤ]

Due to this being a motorcycle I would suggest using these but connectors...the ends shrink over the wire and keep them mostly water and weather proof. I use these a lot on boats and autos's........

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Heat-Shrink-Connector-Piece/dp/B008HMHJDO

[ΚĜΗΟŜΤ]

if you go 16ga and need butt connectors you'll need to use the blue butt connectors.  In this case where you have an electrical connector larger than the wire (going from stock 20ga wire to a 16ga connector) strip back enough wire to twist it, then fold it in half and insert into connector and crimp.  Gives more surface area for the connector to grab onto.

Then I should just get some 18 or 20ga wire, correct?

And where's a good local place to get 10ga power wire?

If your distance of running the power wires is short then 10 Gage may work but if it is more than 4-6 feet you may need bigger wire........8 or 6 gage......

If money is not a big deal and you are purchasing power leads for your amp, 10, 8 or 6 gage. My suggestion would be to purchase a pre made battery cable a bit longer than you need. It will have multi conductor copper wire and the Plus should be red and ground be black already. This is typically very flexible and may be easier than two separate wires.

Typically in the marine environment that type of cable is normal for battery to motor connections. Also jumper cables are also a possible choice.

10 gage is kind of small for anything that may draw some amperage.....but overall length is what needs to be determined.

ADD ON: just read the earlier post about gage size for power to amp...So use your best judgment......

[Bertk]

Due to this being a motorcycle I would suggest using these but connectors...the ends shrink over the wire and keep them mostly water and weather proof. I use these a lot on boats and autos's........

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Heat-Shrink-Connector-Piece/dp/B008HMHJDO

Thanks Kghost, I like this kit.

[Coyote]

if you go 16ga and need butt connectors you'll need to use the blue butt connectors.  In this case where you have an electrical connector larger than the wire (going from stock 20ga wire to a 16ga connector) strip back enough wire to twist it, then fold it in half and insert into connector and crimp.  Gives more surface area for the connector to grab onto.

Then I should just get some 18 or 20ga wire, correct?

And where's a good local place to get 10ga power wire?

I get mine here.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INVF40E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INVF468/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And 10 gauge is plenty big enough for a 5 foot run to the battery. Hell, the main wire to the 40 amp maxi fuse is only 10 gauge.

[UltraNutZ]

[Coyote]

 

I calculated with 5 feet of 10 gauge you will only see about 150mV of drop at 30 amps.

[Bertk]

From what I can see a 6' 10-ga wire can handle up to 65 amps. 
What's the maximum the PN4.520D will require?

[Bertk]

I calculated with 5 feet of 10 gauge you will only see about 150mV of drop at 30 amps.

This is over my head.   

[Coyote]

I currently have a 30 amp fuse going to my PN4.520D and it hasn't blown. IIRC, the amp has a 40 amp fuse.

[Coyote]

I calculated with 5 feet of 10 gauge you will only see NOT MUCH  about 150mV of drop at 30 amps.

This is over my head.   

Better?   

[Bertk]

I currently have a 30 amp fuse going to my PN4.520D and it hasn't blown. IIRC, the amp has a 40 amp fuse.

Coyote, do you have any pics of amp wired up under the fairing?

[UltraNutZ]

my testing on the 4.520D amp showed a max recorded amp draw of 8A.  These class D amps don't draw much current at all and lots of people blow this whole power/ground thing out of proportion with gargantuan sized wires such as 4ga and I've even seen 2ga.  Ridiculous at best.  Bigger is not always best.

[dirtracin23]

my testing on the 4.520D amp showed a max recorded amp draw of 8A.  These class D amps don't draw much current at all and lots of people blow this whole power/ground thing out of proportion with gargantuan sized wires such as 4ga and I've even seen 2ga.  Ridiculous at best.  Bigger is not always best.

It sure as he!! ain't best when trying to cram it all in the wiring tray under the tank that's for sure.