Rebuild time for the touring pig

[Coyote]

Since I got my 2012 back running I can finally deal with my 2011 touring Road Glide. It has about 66k miles on the clock and for the last year, it's been getting worse at puking oil out the breather. I've been wanting some more top end as I often ran out in the mountains. So yesterday I started the tear down.

Got this far yesterday working as I had time.



Kinda thought the rings might be the cause of the oil puking but found out that was not the cause.



Got the case out this morning and put it on the stand this afternoon to split it.



After it was split and cleaned up some, I removed the jets, oil filter adapter and studs.



Did a second cleaning on the case halves.  Once I get all the case sealant off I'll be ready to remove the bearings and do the Timken.
I had to order a few more tools but they should be here next week.

[mike jesse]

Moving right along.

What's the plan?

[JC 92FXRS]

Looks to be in pretty good shape...you're way more efficient at tear-down than me!! 
Have it done in no time.
Cheers, Jeff

[No Cents]

 did you check the run out on the flywheels before splitting the cases?
Just wondering how much it had with 66K on the clock.
Looks good!   
Another 113 in the works?

Ray

[Coyote]

I did check the run out and it was 0.0045. IIRC, it was 0.004 when I put the cams in new.

Since this is my cross country ride, I'm going a little more mild on this build. Will be boring to 107 (w/ Mahle pistons) and using GMR's 577 CAM. Already have heads done from HDSP and I have a new S&S crank to put in. I'll be replacing all of the motor mounts as well as any other wear parts.

[No Cents]

 that sounds like a well thought out recipe! 
I'm jealous 
I love doing what your doing.

Ray

[Matt C]

Nice shop. Why 107?

[Coyote]

Seems like a natural choice if you don't want to do case boring.

[Jim Bronson]

Impressive. I wish I had the tools, space and know-how to do that kind of work.

[04 SE Deuce]

Really think a Timken insert / bearing is needed with a good crank like S&S?  I was planning on having Hoban Bros. do the insert when the time came versus drilled/screwed to case type.   Now I think I'll leave the roller,  John Sachs was the last one to say leave the case alone.  -Rick

[BUBBIE]

Nice shop. Why 107?

HEY MCE, That ain't a shop. That is his Living Room... All pretty Tile and recessed Lift in the middle of it all...

This guy Lives in Pure Luxury...

signed....BUBBIE

[Admiral Akbar]

Nice shop. Why 107?

HEY MCE, That ain't a shop. That is his Living Room... All pretty Tile and recessed Lift in the middle of it all...

This guy Lives in Pure Luxury...

signed....BUBBIE

Looks like he still needs to bolt down the vise...

That fan he's got is good.. Something like 45 bucks at lowes.. I got one..

[prodrag1320]

Really think a Timken insert / bearing is needed with a good crank like S&S?  I was planning on having Hoban Bros. do the insert when the time came versus drilled/screwed to case type.   Now I think I'll leave the roller,  John Sachs was the last one to say leave the case alone.  -Rick

any motor without one needs a Timken coinversion,no matter what brand or stroke

[gabbyduffy]

Really think a Timken insert / bearing is needed with a good crank like S&S?  I was planning on having Hoban Bros. do the insert when the time came versus drilled/screwed to case type.   Now I think I'll leave the roller,  John Sachs was the last one to say leave the case alone.  -Rick

You where given good advise, if I was to do it again I would not use the timken. Especially with the S&S crank, I guess it all depends on your (horsepower/torque) goals, how radical is the motor?
                Coyote, nice looking shop and I really like that color on your RG. Is the color OEM?

[slypig]

Cover that front fender

[Cranksmith]

"any motor without one needs a Timken conversion,no matter what brand or stroke"


Do you have personal experiences with lefty bearing failures? I have seen earlier INA failures, but not from the lefty upgrade. I've been waiting to see them fail, and haven't...

[Coyote]

Really think a Timken insert / bearing is needed with a good crank like S&S?  I was planning on having Hoban Bros. do the insert when the time came versus drilled/screwed to case type.   Now I think I'll leave the roller,  John Sachs was the last one to say leave the case alone.  -Rick

I can't think of a reason not  to do the conversion while the case is apart. It only takes a couple hours or so to do it. 

Looks like he still needs to bolt down the vise...

The blue stand will hold the motor stand, crank/case stand or the vise. Speed knobs make switching from one to the other quick. 

Is the color OEM?

Nope. I painted this bike last year on the side yard. 

[attach=0]

[Matt C]

Nice shop. Why 107?

HEY MCE, That ain't a shop. That is his Living Room... All pretty Tile and recessed Lift in the middle of it all...

This guy Lives in Pure Luxury...

signed....BUBBIE

No kidding! I'm going to see about putting a workbench in my living room. 

[Matt C]

Seems like a natural choice if you don't want to do case boring.

Save that money for when you bore the case. (107 = waste of time & money)

[Coyote]

Seems like a natural choice if you don't want to do case boring.

Save that money for when you bore the case. (107 = waste of time & money)

I'm well aware of your thoughts on 107s.  I just don't agree.   

[MikeL]

When one goes that far into a Twin Cam especially a 2003 and up and not Timken the left case.....................?
 


                                                                                      MIKE

[Ohio HD]

When one goes that far into a Twin Cam especially a 2003 and up and not Timken the left case.....................?
 


                                                                                      MIKE

Yep, sure won't hurt anything.

[klammer76]

Coyote,

Ya got any pictures of the blue stand? Did you make it or buy it? Seems like I recall you talking about it several years ago but I can't remember the specifics.

thanks,
klammer

[Coyote]

Tweekmytwin designed the stand.  It is multi-purpose and also mounts the vise and motor stand shown.

[klammer76]

Tweekmytwin designed the stand.  It is multi-purpose and also mounts the vise and motor stand shown.

Very nice. Is the base like a conventional car motor stand?

[Admiral Akbar]

Like the tool box..

[Coyote]

Very nice. Is the base like a conventional car motor stand?

The base is just like the top and is bolted to the floor.

[attach=0]

Like the tool box..

Yeah me too. Circumstances kinda thrust it upon me. 

[klammer76]

Very nice. Is the base like a conventional car motor stand?

The base is just like the top and is bolted to the floor.

[attach=0]

Like the tool box..

Yeah me too. Circumstances kinda thrust it upon me. 

Very nice. Thanks for the pics and info.

[Just Nick]

I like the lift got two of them and a couple of the handy bob 1500's its nice not to have to bend over to much ( I'm 6'5") so I still got to bend some

[No Cents]

 that's almost too pretty to work in...a very very clean working environment. The way it should be.
I'd be afraid to walk around in there for fear of wanting to touch everything.
Nice work shop!

Ray

[mattVA]

So did you invest in the Timken tools to do it yourself. .? Are you planning on doing enough bikes to pay for the tools? I'm just wondering, why not send the cases off to someone like Tman or DH who line bores the case halves. I've read late model bikes don't have alignment and doing Timken conversion without this step isn't the best idea.

Edit to add: Thanks for all of the pictures. You have a very nice shop and tools. No expense spared. When you get to applying sealant to the halves would you be willing to share a picture as I'm headed in there this winter.

[Coyote]

So did you invest in the Timken tools to do it yourself. .? Are you planning on doing enough bikes to pay for the tools? I'm just wondering, why not send the cases off to someone like Tman or DH who line bores the case halves. I've read late model bikes don't have alignment and doing Timken conversion without this step isn't the best idea.

Edit to add: Thanks for all of the pictures. You have a very nice shop and tools. No expense spared.

Yes, I bought the tool. Many tools I have purchased over the years don't get used a lot. But when I need one, it's there and I don't have to wait to get stuff done.     I don't think there is any alignment issues but I suppose time will tell.

[gabbyduffy]

   thats key "not depending on anybody but yourself" and you know its done rite. My next tool is going to be wheel bearing remover and installer.

[mattVA]

   thats key "not depending on anybody but yourself" and you know its done rite. My next tool is going to be wheel bearing remover and installer.

Go for the Pit Posse and piece together what you need to turn it into the JIMS. Much cheaper and practically identical.

[Coyote]

So long to the 37's. They served me well for 4 years.

The Fueling pump and plate still look good. Just need some new seals on the pump.

[Matt C]

37s were decent back in their day, outdated by todays standards. What are you going to go back with with?

[IronMike113]

37s were decent back in their day, outdated by todays standards. What are you going to go back with with?

Just like the 54's but you know they work,and everyone else puts Thier spin on it,and Walla we have a new cam,the 37 is a good all round cam in smaller displacement,Are there better you bet,everything can always improved,But somethings just work........ JMO

[Admiral Akbar]

37s were decent back in their day, outdated by todays standards. What are you going to go back with with?

Just like the 54's but you know they work,and everyone else puts Thier spin on it,and Walla we have a new cam,the 37 is a good all round cam in smaller displacement,Are there better you bet,everything can always improved,But somethings just work........ JMO

54s are outdated? 

[Matt C]

WOW

[PeteH]

Gotta love the pee pad for a throw away bench top!

I learn something new every day! No more newspaper bench tops for me.

[autoworker]

Good choice you have made with the pistons.

[Deye76]

What lifters are you going with?

[Coyote]

What lifters are you going with?

I have a set of S&S in the parts drawer.

[BUBBIE]

Might he use the 57 cause of the more LIFT? Had such a good Running bike with the 37's...

I remember being BEHIND him...

signed....BUBBIE

Well Post #4 says GMR577 ...  close to the 57 though

[mike jesse]

Post #4 clearly states GMR 577's.

[05HarleyBagger]

Very nice shop and post. Very informative. BTW, what kinda lift is that ?  Keep us in the loop....thanks

[Just Nick]

Very nice shop and post. Very informative. BTW, what kinda lift is that ?  Keep us in the loop....thanks

K&L MC625R

[Coyote]

Broke down and made me a proper tool today.

[attach=0]

[mike jesse]

For comp. release removal. Good job.

[Coyote]

For comp. release removal. Good job.

Thank you sir

[PoorUB]

How did it work? I cut up a socket to torque the compression releases and it flexed so bad it was unusable. I welded a strip of steel across the opening, far enough out so it would still fit over the release.

[Coyote]

It's pretty stiff.  We'll see when I install them. 

[No Cents]

 years ago I took an old socket and made me an ACR removal/install tool.
I removed less material in the center section of mine and it has worked great. It's not pretty...but it does the job.

Ray

[attach=0]

[Just Nick]

How did it work? I cut up a socket to torque the compression releases and it flexed so bad it was unusable. I welded a strip of steel across the opening, far enough out so it would still fit over the release.

I have the same problem with the screamin beagle socket I have thanks for the idear about the strip o steel. You mind posting a pic?

[PoorUB]

How did it work? I cut up a socket to torque the compression releases and it flexed so bad it was unusable. I welded a strip of steel across the opening, far enough out so it would still fit over the release.

I have the same problem with the screamin beagle socket I have thanks for the idear about the strip o steel. You mind posting a pic?

Ya, I mind!
No time now, maybe later, but I took a thin strip and rolled it to match the OD of the socket and tacked it across the opening, at the end of the socket. You need to be careful and make sure the comp release with fit through, plus small enough to clear the casting on the head.

[prodrag1320]

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/veetwin1/002_zpsjjegga3d.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/veetwin1/001_zpssau7ejjf.jpg

no reason to hog out the socket so much,just mill a slot down the side.no weakness then

[Coyote]

Unfortunately that won't work with the CRs I have. They have a bump out and that bump out is not in the same position relative to the hex end from unit to unit. That's why I removed more material.

[prodrag1320]

Unfortunately that won't work with the CRs I have. They have a bump out and that bump out is not in the same position relative to the hex end from unit to unit. That's why I removed more material.

what ACR`s do you have? mine works with all but S&S units (that ive ran into anyway).you have to put the socket on,mark where the "bump" is and mill the slot there

[chopperdawg]

Go with the Timkens,Trust me!!!

[Coyote]

I'm using the HD ones. Here is a pic of the issue. You can see that the bulge that must be clearanced for is not in the same position from one unit to the next.

[attach=0]

[attach=1]


Harleys tool also does the same

[attachimg=3]

[prodrag1320]

hmmn,use mine on a bunch (like 100`s ) of HD ACR`s,never ran into that problem

[Don D]

A standard socket with a milled slot in the side does it. I made a few of then. The ACRs need to be tighter than Harleys spec and to do that the band at the bottom remains solid not open. Cant post photo

[Coyote]

I got a PM asking for some more pics of the case work. So here are a few from today.

First remove the retaining clip from the sprocket side.



Remove the seal.



Press the bearing out.





Pretty much the same on the other half, just two retaining screws and no seal.

[JC 92FXRS]

Are the cases coated on the inside as well? ...or is that just the lighting fooling me.
Jeff

[1FSTRK]

Unfortunately that won't work with the CRs I have. They have a bump out and that bump out is not in the same position relative to the hex end from unit to unit. That's why I removed more material.

what ACR`s do you have? mine works with all but S&S units (that ive ran into anyway).you have to put the socket on,mark where the "bump" is and mill the slot there

Just ran into that a while back. I do not know the exact date that Harley started installing the new style but I spoke with Vic and he said he modified his socket over a year ago when he ran into it. Had to be cheaper to not have the top indexed to the base.

[Coyote]

Unfortunately that won't work with the CRs I have. They have a bump out and that bump out is not in the same position relative to the hex end from unit to unit. That's why I removed more material.

what ACR`s do you have? mine works with all but S&S units (that ive ran into anyway).you have to put the socket on,mark where the "bump" is and mill the slot there

Just ran into that a while back. I do not know the exact date that Harley started installing the new style but I spoke with Vic and he said he modified his socket over a year ago when he ran into it. Had to be cheaper to not have the top indexed to the base.

There is no way just a slot would have worked on the two I had. Thanks for confirming I'm not nuts. lol

[prodrag1320]

Are the cases coated on the inside as well? ...or is that just the lighting fooling me.
Jeff

HD power coats the whole thing before any machining (just like with the heads)

[JC 92FXRS]

Are the cases coated on the inside as well? ...or is that just the lighting fooling me.
Jeff

HD power coats the whole thing before any machining (just like with the heads)

Thanks, I guess that would make sense production wise. Pretty sure my old EVO isn't like that (I've never been in the cases), it's just painted.
Cheers, jeff

[Coyote]

Pressing in a new right side main bearing.





And new piston oilers and inner cam bearings.

[Knox_Nate]

Love the thread. What it must be like to have this knowledge and ability to do this!!!!

[HD/Wrench]

Very nice thread. Step by step very easy to follow. I like it..

[mattVA]

And new piston oilers and inner cam bearings.

When sealing the cases do you apply the sealant to the flat surfaces of the right case half using your finger or a brush, around bolt holes and dowel pins?

[Don D]

Many opinions for sure..
I use a foam swab and loctite 518

[Coyote]

A few more pics from today. Jim was nice enough to stop by today and made sure I did not miss any steps in the bottom end re assembly. Always nice to have an expert as a safety net when experience is limited as mine is.   


Here is the Timken sleeve already pressed in and the oil holes and holes for the flange screws drilled. Ready to tap.



Flange screws installed and the races have been pressed in.



End play set at 0.002"



Pressing the bearing onto the crankshaft.



Applying the case sealant.



Case bolts installed and torqued down.

[Thumper Buttercup]

Coyote,

Really enjoying the work with all the pictures.


Thanks


Mark & Kim

[Buffalo]

Yes, the pics are great! Please keep them coming. Buffalo

[mattVA]

Just curious here. .two questions:

In your applying sealant picture it looks like you missed around one of the bolt holes, I'm assuming you went back over that. And why the tapered rod ends on the flywheel when you bought a new S&S crankshaft? I'd think the non-tapered rods would be preferable, unless there's an HD piston you really wanted to run.

[Coyote]

Matt, the bolt hole does not matter. If you notice, the oil hole in front of it was gone around.  I could have gone either way on the rods with the piston I chose. 

[mattVA]

Matt, the bolt hole does not matter. If you notice, the oil hole in front of it was gone around.  I could have gone either way on the rods with the piston I chose.

Got it thanks for the pictures. I went with the straight rods was surprised to see the tapered is all.

[gabbyduffy]

   Are you using 1211 to seal the cases? If not then what?

[mike jesse]

Coyote,

Did the spacer supplied with the Timkin bearings get you the .002 in. end play, or did you have to swap it out?

[Coyote]

Duffy, just used the HD case sealant.

Mike, I got lucky on this one and the supplied spacer was correct. Last one I did that was not the case.

[BUBBIE]

Even on my new replacement 00 crank from HD, I had to make my own spacer to give me the correct clearance and alignment.

Just a Lucky Coyote this time....

signed....BUBBIE

[Coyote]

Forgot to check the new crank yesterday. This one is a keeper at 0.001 run out.




Also got the transmission cleaned up some today. Will be adding a Baker drum.

[Buffalo]

Hi Coyote  New crank is an S&S, right? Nice!! Does the Baker drum offer advantages over stock, ie smoother shiftin, more positive etc???  Are you replacing the door too? If yes, with what? 
Thanks again for taking the time to do pics, man, huge plus.  Buffalo

[Coyote]

Yes, SS.  The Baker drum is suppose to offer smoother shifting and easier to find neutral. This is the first one for me so we'll see.

[mattVA]

Didn't realize you were working on the transmission at the same time. Guess might as well while the primary is off. I thought I read s&s guarantees 0.0005 runout must be at the flywheel not the end of the shaft. Either way looks great. Thank you for the pictures. I don't remember if I asked but did you apply the case sealant to both case halves or just the cam side?

[attach=0]

[mike jesse]

What's .0005 in among friends?

[PoorUB]

What's .0005 in among friends?

Multiply that by 20 times and you still are in spec for HD!

[Coyote]

Things change when you put it in the case. Probably that Timken sleeve alignment. 

[Just Nick]

Coyote,

Did the spacer supplied with the Timkin bearings get you the .002 in. end play, or did you have to swap it out?

Probally nothing new to you but in all the Timken conversions we have done (a lot couldn't count if I tried) only a few of the spacers were in spec. That's why I have a fishing tackle box with every size I could get from eastern mc parts.


Coyote keep up the good work

[Coyote]

Lots to clean after 5 years of riding. At least everything is pretty much out of the way now. 

[Admiral Akbar]

You're supposed to clean them?   

[Coyote]

You're supposed to clean them?   

It doesn't matter if you know how to ride as long as you look good going down the road.

Had a hoggie tell me that once. 

[Admiral Akbar]

You're supposed to clean them?   

It doesn't matter if you know how to ride as long as you look good going down the road.

Had a hoggie tell me that once. 

  Thanks, I needed that..

[mattVA]

Things change when you put it in the case. Probably that Timken sleeve alignment. 

Yeah probably right...[emoji2]

[Coyote]

Yesterday I removed the bearings from the swing arm and got it ready to reassemble.  Got the Baker drum today.  Nice looking unit. Time to install it and start putting the trans back together.

[boooby1744]

No Street Door?

[Coyote]

No Street Door?

No, I think the stock tran will be OK. Smoother shifting and easier to find neutral would be nice.

[Coyote]

Decided to go ahead and replace the main bearing while I'm there.

Here is the bearing separated after the gear is pulled.




Have to get the rest of the bearing off the gear.

[N-gin]

Wow very nice work.
Lots of pics too.

[Buffalo]

Hi Coyote Great pictures, I'll be helping to tear down one of these trannys shortly. Showing us the procedures is fantastic!  Let me see if I have this right. The main gear pushes out into the trans case, leaving the outer part of the bearing still in the case. The outer half has no cages around the bearings.
The inner half of the bearing remains with the gear, has to be removed and does have a plastic cage holding the bearings in place. Does that sound right? 
I'll be referring to the pics here for sure when we do this job. Thanks again for making the effort to show us the way.  Buffalo

[Ratman1640]

Hey Coyote, Im doing a first time rebuild on an 88 cid , im putting the crank in tonight and checking the end play so the book calls for 150 to 165 torque on the dummy comp nut so how do I hold the crank and torque the nut ? Thanks Ratman 

[HD/Wrench]

I have checked the end play with a home made tool. I bought a new EVO sprocket shaft and turned it down on the lathe to allow the Timken to slide on. Then I welded that to a 4 inch piece of square stock. I put that in the vise drop bearing on spacer then case then bearing.. I have checked end play from 50-150 and have not found ANY change. However I think that the deal may be that  not all tools are the same.  But not a huge fan of the bought dummy tools.. Way to simple to make a basic one that I have used since 1997..

[Coyote]

Hey Coyote, Im doing a first time rebuild on an 88 cid , im putting the crank in tonight and checking the end play so the book calls for 150 to 165 torque on the dummy comp nut so how do I hold the crank and torque the nut ? Thanks Ratman

You need a dummy shaft. I clamped mine in the vice.

[Coyote]

Hi Coyote Great pictures, I'll be helping to tear down one of these trannys shortly. Showing us the procedures is fantastic!  Let me see if I have this right. The main gear pushes out into the trans case, leaving the outer part of the bearing still in the case. The outer half has no cages around the bearings.
The inner half of the bearing remains with the gear, has to be removed and does have a plastic cage holding the bearings in place. Does that sound right? 
I'll be referring to the pics here for sure when we do this job. Thanks again for making the effort to show us the way.  Buffalo

This picture shows the bearing in its two pieces after the sprocket is pulled out inside the case. Part on the sprocket, the rest still in the case.

[Ratman1640]

Well the book says I can use a piece of pipe that's 1"3/4 OD and 1"1/4 ID and 2"1/4 long with a 7/8x14 nut to slide over the shaft and then torque it, so I have that but then can I just torque the nut to 75 foot lbs and check it then?

[HD/Wrench]

Like I  the issue is do you have the bearing FULLY seated once that is done its not about a massive tq spec.. But to fully seat it it will take more than 75 lbs is my best guess.. I do not do it that way and if you do press the bearing on its is a one time use item once you press it off . Hence the reason I built a dummy tool. Add 1.5 thou to the figure you get for press fit and I have never had one of them be outside the spec I was shooting for.

[Ratman1640]

Thanks GMR Ill go with that !! Ratman

[Coyote]

Got the main drive gear, bearing and seal all put back in today.




What took an hour to do on the bike was a 10 min job on the bench. The Baker +1.5 install was a snap.

[gabbyduffy]

    What kind of benefits come along with installing a Baker drum?

[FSG]

And that folks is a good pic of how the trannie oil drains out via a port in the oil pan.

[Coyote]

A few more pics for those interested.

New stator installed.




Cams in the plate and a quick rebuild of the Fueling oil pump.




O rings checked twice and ready to install the plate.





Cam gear alignment checked and the plate is installed. Ready for the cover and the bottom end is done.




This time I'm using a different method to pump up the lifters. IIRC, this was Ray's method and it looked simple enough. It seem to work really well.

[Admiral Akbar]

Looks like you are pulling oil out the top of the lifter and feeding in from the side... Did it have the lifter test fluid already in it or did you pull them a part?  How much vacuum are you pulling with the mighty vac? Let us know if the lifter rattles on startup..

[Coyote]

Did not take them apart. When the vac started, you could see the light weight oil come out into the tube and then get darker. I ran max vac for about a minute on each one.  The vac was enough to half collapse the large tube.  Should be interesting to see how they fire up. I'll let you know.

[No Cents]

 looks great!   

Ray

[Billy]

Excellent work Keith. 

It's kinda hard to tell from the pics. Do the con rod small ends have bushings?

[Thumper Buttercup]

Hey Coyote,

Did you change out that shifter seal on the transmission, I was wondering
with it all be exposed like you have it.

[Jaycee1964]

Where is the HotTub?

[BUBBIE]

I see you are using the stock hd?  Brown Cam-chain shoe tensioner pads.... I had good amount of Miles on mine But ordered the white Cyco replacements...
I'll see how they wear.

signed....BUBBIE

[Coyote]

It's kinda hard to tell from the pics. Do the con rod small ends have bushings?

Yes they do.

Hey Coyote,

Did you change out that shifter seal on the transmission, I was wondering
with it all be exposed like you have it.

Since I had to change out the shifter pawl, I pretty much had to. Removing the pawl will drag the splines across the seal and that would probably damage the seal.

[Thumper Buttercup]

It's kinda hard to tell from the pics. Do the con rod small ends have bushings?

Yes they do.

Hey Coyote,

Did you change out that shifter seal on the transmission, I was wondering
with it all be exposed like you have it.

Since I had to change out the shifter pawl, I pretty much had to. Removing the pawl will drag the splines across the seal and that would probably damage the seal.

I know you probably changed it but it was bugging me for two days thinking
about it .

[Coyote]

Today I got the bearings in so the new spacers and bearings got pressed into the swing arm.





It was nice being able to test fit the gap with the tranny still sitting on the bench.




On thing that surprised me was when I took the swing arm off the bike and it was more than half full of water.  It's not like I ever ride in the rain  . There was some ugly rust colored stuff on the back of the transmission in the early photos I took. Well I drained all the water out and let it sit outside in the dry Cali sun for a few days. I sprayed in some WD40 and sloshed it around.  I had not removed the belt guard but I did that today and under it I found a drain hole. Now mine was completed packed with crap so I guess that's why the thing filled up. You can see the cleaned out drain hole justto the right of the middle screw hole.





Figured before I reassembled, I'd clear an opening in the belt guard so I could at least check that hole from time to time.

[Coyote]

Getting the inner primary ready. Ground off a little material so the rotor can be removed or installed later if need be. New bearing and seal to be installed along with new shifter shaft bushings.

[Coyote]

[slothy]

check the belt guard, mine was blocking that hole. i ended up drilling a new bigger hole in the guard in the correct spot

[FSG]

Ground off a little material so the rotor can be removed or installed later if need be.

[Coyote]

After our trip to Kansas, I finally got back on the bike this week. Finished up the motor and dropped it in the frame today. Also got the transmission case put in and the swing arm.

[No Cents]

 looking good! 
nice job on those in the floor lifts you 3 musketeer's did too!
Hell...my barn is needing one of those fancy in the floor lifts too...and I'm just another days ride east...if you guys ever get bored. 

Ray

[Coyote]

Transmission is done and today the inner primary went back on along with lots of little stuff. Grinding the inner primary was enough to get the rotor on after the inner went in.





Started the mod for external breather as well.

[attach=0,msg974341]

[attach=1,msg974341]

[RXBOB]

external breather is a must for any new engine

[Coyote]

I like the silicon tubing better than the auto parts store stuff

   [attach=0,msg974519]

[ΚĜΗΟŜΤ]

I have been using this set up for several years now....works very well and allows oil to run back down into head after condensates. I change the filters as needed. The filter should or at least it does on my carbed set up fit between the head and the carb cap/top.... maybe think about this....

Kuryakan blue grass breathers. There is one set for carbed and one set for efi....


http://www.kuryakyn.com/products/1031/bluegrass-breather-kits[attach=0]

[Coyote]

I like the idea of that but I have some concerns about long term riding in heavy rain (which I end up doing at times).  Same with using a catch can and breather. 

[Admiral Akbar]

I like the idea of that but I have some concerns about long term riding in heavy rain (which I end up doing at times).  Same with using a catch can and breather.

Not only that but it won't fit..

[Hossamania]

I personally don't like the idea of the tubing going up. Liguid flows down, I want it out and away. I've seen what gathers in the catch can, I don't want that going back into my head. The little bit of oil lost won't be missed.

[Coyote]

What I really wanted was a catch can with a protected breather but I have not be able to find it. I suppose I could build something. My 2012 will drip one drop after a long ride. Not much but it would be nice to not have to clean it up

[ΚĜΗΟŜΤ]

I have ridden in the rain many times with no issues........The filters are under the gas tank several inches.......

And I dont know for sure why they would not fit......Maybe has to do with the newer motors........these came out during the 88 motor time...........But They work nice on my motor!! 2004 [attachimg=1]B 95 inch!!

Hope you can see how they fit on mine...

[Admiral Akbar]

I have ridden in the rain many times with no issues........The filters are under the gas tank several inches.......

And I dont know for sure why they would not fit......Maybe has to do with the newer motors........these came out during the 88 motor time...........But They work nice on my motor!! 2004 B 95 inch!!

[attach=0]

Hope you can see how they fit on mine...

You have the early SE backing plate with stamped backing plate braket.. Look at Keith's.. It is one piece cast.. FWIW don't care for that bolting scheme as it can leak unless you spend time sealing everything up with sealer.. 

[q1svt]

What I really wanted was a catch can with a protected breather but I have not be able to find it. I suppose I could build something. My 2012 will drip one drop after a long ride. Not much but it would be nice to not have to clean it up

I run a CC like this one...  just open the drain valve on a rainy day, close it on nice days. 
http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,85930.msg970789.html#msg970789

OR
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=62-1511

they come in a couple of fitting ID's

[jmorton10]

I personally don't like the idea of the tubing going up. Liguid flows down, I want it out and away. I've seen what gathers in the catch can, I don't want that going back into my head. The little bit of oil lost won't be missed.

I agree 100%.

I was emptying my catch can this morning & thinking the exact same thing.

~John

[04 SE Deuce]

What I really wanted was a catch can with a protected breather but I have not be able to find it. I suppose I could build something. My 2012 will drip one drop after a long ride. Not much but it would be nice to not have to clean it up

Make your own,  lots of ways to do it.  Doesn't need a filter on the can,   hose/tube off the top or high area of the can with a hat/cover to keep water out or opening turned down etc.  Simple separator in the can reservoir would be a plus.  -Rick

[ΚĜΗΟŜΤ]

I have ridden in the rain many times with no issues........The filters are under the gas tank several inches.......

And I dont know for sure why they would not fit......Maybe has to do with the newer motors........these came out during the 88 motor time...........But They work nice on my motor!! 2004 B 95 inch!!

[attach=0]

Hope you can see how they fit on mine...

You have the early SE backing plate with stamped backing plate braket.. Look at Keith's.. It is one piece cast.. FWIW don't care for that bolting scheme as it can leak unless you spend time sealing everything up with sealer..

I made my own stainless steel washers that seal the karayken fiting to the breather bolts and to the heads, everything else works fine and have been running it for 6+ years. no leaks or issues.......A little soot on the intake manifold but that cleans up easy enough.

for me it is clean and neat and functional.

And yes I know understand the difference in the backing plate.......Don't have any experience with newer backing plates......I am stuck in a time warp and only have my carbed bike....lol

[buell95]

What I really wanted was a catch can with a protected breather but I have not be able to find it. I suppose I could build something. My 2012 will drip one drop after a long ride. Not much but it would be nice to not have to clean it up

  Do a goggle search lots of breather filters with chrome covers over them or have shields around them.

[1FSTRK]

I do not understand why anyone would want to filter the blow-by air that comes out of their engine. Once you get a little oil mist coating the inside of the filter element you create back pressure and crank case pressure will escalate from there.
These are vents to get rid of any crank case pressure, if they are sucking anything in then fix the breather umbrellas.

[BUBBIE]

Plenty of OIL in the Blacktop... Not a problem for a Little added to it... @ Y into One and Straight to the ground would be My Way...

Coming from a Lazy member who still vents the stock way

some day...

signed....BUBBIE

[Admiral Akbar]

I do not understand why anyone would want to filter the blow-by air that comes out of their engine. Once you get a little oil mist coating the inside of the filter element you create back pressure and crank case pressure will escalate from there.
These are vents to get rid of any crank case pressure, if they are sucking anything in then fix the breather umbrellas.

But aren't those gauze type filters supposed to be oiled?  Think of it as a self oiling gauze filter..  I agree with the rest.. Not needed.. On the evos I had they just served as a collection point for the oil to drip out of.. Any sort of catch is good if you have a bleeder motor..

[No Cents]

  Coyote...I know this is probably a stupid question...but are your backing plate breather bolts hollow (drilled down the center) with a hole drilled thru the sides of them to allow the muck to exit and drain down into the barbs?

Ray

[Ed Y]

I ran this setup from the backing plate drains for many years on a number of bikes. Never got any oil on bike or tires and very seldom ever saw any drips after 700-800 mile days.

[Coyote]

  Coyote...I know this is probably a stupid question...but are your backing plate breather bolts hollow (drilled down the center) with a hole drilled thru the sides of them to allow the muck to exit and drain down into the barbs?

Rayt

Yes they are.

[No Cents]

  I was hoping so. 
I've not used that style backing plate before so I wasn't familiar with the breather bolts that come with it.

Ray

[motolocopat]

Coyote,

Did the spacer supplied with the Timkin bearings get you the .002 in. end play, or did you have to swap it out?

Pardon my ignorance but I had always AssUMed that the "End Play" was measured to the crank. In the photo it is just being measured to ??

Thanks

MotoLocoPat

[djl]

  Coyote...I know this is probably a stupid question...but are your backing plate breather bolts hollow (drilled down the center) with a hole drilled thru the sides of them to allow the muck to exit and drain down into the barbs?

Rayt

Yes they are.

Coyote, I have the early backing plate with stamped bracket on my carbed '02 FLHT to vent the breathes.  I want to change to the one piece backing plate, which I have but no breather bolts.  Do you have the PN for those bolts?

[pwmorris]

As said, super clean garage with all the tools, machines, and owners skill to do complete motors, trans, drivetrain and everything a bike would need.
Smart upgrade and mild build plan as well for a long distance cuzer-take care of wear parts, and freshen up the rest of the motor for thousands of trouble free miles...

[Coyote]

  Coyote...I know this is probably a stupid question...but are your backing plate breather bolts hollow (drilled down the center) with a hole drilled thru the sides of them to allow the muck to exit and drain down into the barbs?

Rayt

Yes they are.

Those bolts came with the SE A/C kit originally. But HD does sell a chrome version I know. I'll see if I can get the p/n from Jim. Maybe they are in the P&A catalog?

Coyote, I have the early backing plate with stamped bracket on my carbed '02 FLHT to vent the breathes.  I want to change to the one piece backing plate, which I have but no breather bolts.  Do you have the PN for those bolts?

[Coyote]

Coyote,

Did the spacer supplied with the Timkin bearings get you the .002 in. end play, or did you have to swap it out?

Pardon my ignorance but I had always AssUMed that the "End Play" was measured to the crank. In the photo it is just being measured to ??

Thanks

MotoLocoPat

To do the measurement I used a crank simulator. Same as doing it on the crank but the bearing slides on instead of pressing it on.

[Coyote]

  Coyote...I know this is probably a stupid question...but are your backing plate breather bolts hollow (drilled down the center) with a hole drilled thru the sides of them to allow the muck to exit and drain down into the barbs?

Rayt

Yes they are.

Coyote, I have the early backing plate with stamped bracket on my carbed '02 FLHT to vent the breathes.  I want to change to the one piece backing plate, which I have but no breather bolts.  Do you have the PN for those bolts?

Ray, here is the part numbers for those bolts.

[attach=0]

[FSG]

Screw, breather, black (2) 29267-08A

Screw, breather, chrome (2) 29400081

SCREAMIN' EAGLE STAGE 1 KIT FOR EFI MODELS   -J06168

Black 

[djl]

Thanks for the PNs guys.

[Coyote]

All back together and almost done tuning it. Ended up with a very quiet motor. The Baker drum has finding neutral very easy now.

[No Cents]

lookin good! 
How did the lifter pre-load trick work?

Ray

[Coyote]

Worked perfect Ray. I had no lifter noise at all on startup. I had just a little bit of top end noise until the oil got there but that was it.   

[No Cents]

 I'm glad it worked for you! 
The bike looks like it needs it legs stretched out on the open road now.
Great job on the re-build!

Ray

[Just Nick]

Bring that bike on down to Texas I will take you out and we can do the three sisters (the ride guys).

[Coyote]

Bring that bike on down to Texas I will take you out and we can do the three sisters (the ride guys).

Jim and I have kinda planned on staying farther North this year.  See some new roads. Last year I went through Texas. Got a nice tank full of H2O down on the coast. Plus we barely made it out of the Houston area. Every bridge had water lapping at the pavement. Good times. 

[Coyote]

I'm glad it worked for you! 
The bike looks like it needs it legs stretched out on the open road now.
Great job on the re-build!

Ray

So far, so good. I had the tuning almost done last week and the logs showed I was running out of injector. Installed bigger ones yesterday so now everything is off a bit. Should be done this week though. The Target Tune is amazingly fast.

[Don D]

That's a nice looking bike.
Good job guys.

[gabbyduffy]

    Love that color.............. 

[gabbyduffy]

check the belt guard, mine was blocking that hole. i ended up drilling a new bigger hole in the guard in the correct spot

My 09 did not have a drain hole, and it was full of rust big time. It felt like it was full of sand. I also drilled a drain hole......

[Coyote]

That's a nice looking bike.
Good job guys.

Thanks for the rework on the heads Don. 

[Buffalo]

I'd like to thankyou for the pictorial here on your rebuild. As mentioned I especially liked the transmission pics as a friend and I where about to go into his 2011 Ultra for tranny issues.
We got thru it in good fashion, in part because I knew from your pics just things looked and went together/ or apart. A total rebuild of the tranny's bearings, clips etc with a new JIMS door. Subsequent rides have him claiming it has never shifted as easy, totally silent now, and even clutch action is smoother with a better engagement point. He's smiling!!  I showed him your pics the first day so we both had a plan.
Thanks again for taking us thru a very informative thread.  Buffalo

[PoorUB]

So far, so good. I had the tuning almost done last week and the logs showed I was running out of injector. Installed bigger ones yesterday so now everything is off a bit. Should be done this week though. The Target Tune is amazingly fast.

Did you go ahead with the 107"? I did not see any mention of it past the first few posts. I was surprised you needed larger injectors. When I had the 107" my stockers were plenty.

[Coyote]

So far, so good. I had the tuning almost done last week and the logs showed I was running out of injector. Installed bigger ones yesterday so now everything is off a bit. Should be done this week though. The Target Tune is amazingly fast.

Did you go ahead with the 107"? I did not see any mention of it past the first few posts. I was surprised you needed larger injectors. When I had the 107" my stockers were plenty.

Yes it's a 107. HDSP Heads, GMR577 cam.

Without good logs, I might well have missed it since the area was outside my normal riding range. Still it needed to be addressed. Injector duty cycles well over 100% were being called for in certain places. DC was way too high up around 6000 rpm at high loads. See the log graph below.

[attach=0]

[FSG]

How did the lifter pre-load trick work?

[No Cents]

 Gary...it's in reply# 112.

Ray

[N-gin]

About the catch can.
I had drilled out my bolt breathers and there is about 18in of line to the catch on my rear shock.. When I drain it I get water. There is a slight oil film on the water.

[HD/Wrench]

Nicely done.. Looking sharp..

[motolocopat]

Congrats and many thanks for the nice write up

[Coyote]

Steve, just to let you know that Genesis 577 CAM turned out to be exactly what I was after. Big touring bike pulls like a train right off the line and still has plenty up top for passing.  And the Target Tune with the map Jamie sent me dialed it in beautifully.

[HD/Wrench]

Steve, just to let you know that Genesis 577 CAM turned out to be exactly what I was after. Big touring bike pulls like a train right off the line and still has plenty up top for passing.  And the Target Tune with the map Jamie sent me dialed it in beautifully.

Happy I could help. And again nice job with the complete build..

[FSG]

Gary...it's in reply# 112.

Ray

pump by sucking   

[VANAMAL]

Great work thanks for sharing. Wish you were closer id ask for your help. I need to do the top end on the 05 103 and the 110 always needs repair. Im pretty well read and confident enough to do cams,heads pistons pump etc.  weak on lower end,trans and elec issues. Tuning is something that id like to learn but its super confusing with all the different tuners.lingo,maps etc.

[sfmichael]

looks top notch - well done