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Polished stainless complete bolt kits for big twins.

Started by Smarty, December 31, 2015, 03:46:27 PM

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Smarty

Does anyone know if anyone but Diamond Engineering out of Florida makes the polished stainless replacement bolt kits for the big twin motors? Diamond is almost $350
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Carol Burks

rmc115

00 Fatboy, 95"wood tw6, diamond cut,se 44mm  <br />20 Ultra Limited

86fxwg

86fxwg 06flhx 10flhx

No Cents

 try:
allensfateners.com    ...for ARP or either chrome, or stainless bolts.
He charges the same $6.95 flat rate shipping for one bolt...or a hundred bolts.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

Smarty

Thanks guys. I knew some of you would know some others than Diamond Engineering. They are proud of their bolts for sure. I just checked out Alloy and much better pricing. Would you go with show polish stainless or the show polish grade 8 stainless on the primary, cam, covers, etc.
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Carol Burks

No Cents

 I don't care for stainless bolts into aluminum...myself.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

HighLiner

 :hug:
Quote from: Smarty on December 31, 2015, 04:43:48 PM
Thanks guys. I knew some of you would know some others than Diamond Engineering. They are proud of their bolts for sure. I just checked out Alloy and much better pricing. Would you go with show polish stainless or the show polish grade 8 stainless on the primary, cam, covers, etc.

If you ever plan on taking it back apart, spring for the grade 8.

Smarty

Quote from: HighLiner on December 31, 2015, 05:11:28 PM
:hug:
Quote from: Smarty on December 31, 2015, 04:43:48 PM
Thanks guys. I knew some of you would know some others than Diamond Engineering. They are proud of their bolts for sure. I just checked out Alloy and much better pricing. Would you go with show polish stainless or the show polish grade 8 stainless on the primary, cam, covers, etc.

If you ever plan on taking it back apart, spring for the grade 8.
That's exactly what I'm ordering. Doing it right the first time!
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Carol Burks

Smarty

Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 04:53:56 PM
I don't care for stainless bolts into aluminum...myself.

Ray

Why is that Ray? If torque wrenches are used, should be no problem of pulling the threads out I would think.
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Carol Burks

No Cents

 stainless bolts that have been bolted into aluminum don't play well together over time...even if properly torqued.
The different properties of the two metal alloys is what I'm referring to.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

Smarty

Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 06:00:57 PM
stainless bolts that have been bolted into aluminum don't play well together over time...even if properly torqued.
The different properties of the two metal alloys is what I'm referring to.

Ray

Gotcha, something to think about for sure
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Carol Burks

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 06:00:57 PM
stainless bolts that have been bolted into aluminum don't play well together over time...even if properly torqued.
The different properties of the two metal alloys is what I'm referring to.

Ray

:scratch:
Funny but I don't have any issues with them. like better than grade 8 Allen.
What becomes an issue is 304 into 304 without any lubricant. Can lock up tight.



No Cents

 I've just seen too many stainless bolts pull the threads out of aluminum when removing them. I ended up having to Heli-coil the bolt holes on many different instances.
Maybe it was just bad luck...and I wish it on no one...just stating what I've seen.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

JohnCA58

December 31, 2015, 08:07:46 PM #13 Last Edit: December 31, 2015, 08:12:15 PM by JohnCA58
I have stainless ARP 12 pt. throughout my engine and transmission, always used a stainless dedicated lubricant and never had any issues.

Have always order from Alloyboltz.  Husband and wife team operating out of their garage.
YOLO

SOCS

+1 for Alloyboltz. Been buying from them for 13 years with no issues

Admiral Akbar

I'd suspect that the bolts were torqued too high. Especially if using ARP bolts. Finish is slicker than grade 8.  With a lubricant, its even worse. I use 304, torqued to 304 specs and a little blue and no issues to date.

1FSTRK

Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 06:53:43 PM
I've just seen too many stainless bolts pull the threads out of aluminum when removing them. I ended up having to Heli-coil the bolt holes on many different instances.
Maybe it was just bad luck...and I wish it on no one...just stating what I've seen.

Ray

I learned from the local shop that the proper loctite for the job will not only keep the bolt from coming loose but I have never had a reaction between the bolt and the aluminium or had to helicoil a hole.

Added
Not to take this off topic but every bolt gets a tq wrench.
"Never hang on to a mistake just because you spent time or money making it."

FXDBI

January 01, 2016, 08:38:37 AM #17 Last Edit: January 01, 2016, 09:01:02 AM by FXDBI
Quote from: Max Headflow on January 01, 2016, 08:15:06 AM
I'd suspect that the bolts were torqued too high. Especially if using ARP bolts. Finish is slicker than grade 8.  With a lubricant, its even worse. I use 304, torqued to 304 specs and a little blue and no issues to date.

:agree:   Drop of blue on the threads and min torque in a PROPER pattern never  had a problem been doing it that way since the 70s when Loctite was first shown to me. If bolts are not tightened in steps and in a proper pattern you will create problems with over tightened bolts.  Bob

SOCS

Quote from: Max Headflow on January 01, 2016, 08:15:06 AM
I'd suspect that the bolts were torqued too high. Especially if using ARP bolts. Finish is slicker than grade 8.  With a lubricant, its even worse. I use 304, torqued to 304 specs and a little blue and no issues to date.

:up: exactly, Alloyboltz includes paperwork that notes the lower torque spec

Smarty

Thanks for all the comments. I'm ordering on Monday from Allow.
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Carol Burks

rmc115

Alloy Boltz advises use of lock tite to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion. I have been using them for 10 years without any issue. I am too cheap to buy the full polish and the standard ones are a "light" polish look good and do not corrode like the stockers in 2 years. Mike
00 Fatboy, 95"wood tw6, diamond cut,se 44mm  <br />20 Ultra Limited

Xanadu

to prevent galling be sure to use some kind of lubricant.  once the bolt galls its cold welds itself and you cant take it apart.

I wanted to replace all the zinc plated fasteners on my motor with nice chromed ones... decided not to do that based on what I read at the beginning of my service manual.  Another thing I have found with the chrome plated fasteners is you can see orange in the allen sockets and around the bolt as the underlying steel rusts.  the stock HD bolts which are zinc plated hold up much better to corrosion  and I dont have to use a q-tip with polish on it to clean out the inside of the allen heads.

hattitude

Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 06:00:57 PM
stainless bolts that have been bolted into aluminum don't play well together over time...even if properly torqued.
The different properties of the two metal alloys is what I'm referring to.

Ray

I had to deal with this all the time maintaining/installing equipment on my boat. Obviously more apparent in a marine environment, but galvanic corrosion can/will happen when dissimilar metals come in contact with each other.

Limit the contact (isolate the metals), or exist in a less corrosive environment and the galvanic corrosion will be mitigated.

FYI:
http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contact

Rags722

January 07, 2016, 09:26:05 AM #23 Last Edit: January 08, 2016, 05:52:53 AM by Rags722
Quote from: Xanadu on January 01, 2016, 12:35:15 PM
to prevent galling be sure to use some kind of lubricant.  once the bolt galls its cold welds itself and you cant take it apart.

I wanted to replace all the zinc plated fasteners on my motor with nice chromed ones... decided not to do that based on what I read at the beginning of my service manual.  Another thing I have found with the chrome plated fasteners is you can see orange in the allen sockets and around the bolt as the underlying steel rusts.  the stock HD bolts which are zinc plated hold up much better to corrosion  and I dont have to use a q-tip with polish on it to clean out the inside of the allen heads.
I've always found the stock Zinc Plated and S-100 don't play well together... unless you use something close to the amount of water in Lake Eire to rinse the S-100 off.

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: hattitude on January 07, 2016, 09:20:38 AM
Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 06:00:57 PM
stainless bolts that have been bolted into aluminum don't play well together over time...even if properly torqued.
The different properties of the two metal alloys is what I'm referring to.

Ray

I had to deal with this all the time maintaining/installing equipment on my boat. Obviously more apparent in a marine environment, but galvanic corrosion can/will happen when dissimilar metals come in contact with each other.

Limit the contact (isolate the metals), or exist in a less corrosive environment and the galvanic corrosion will be mitigated.

FYI:
http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contact

Good stuff.. This chart puts the 2 metals closer on the Galvanic Chart..

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

While SS is more anodic than simple steel, both can corrode and stick in aluminum, especially when there is a electrolyte involved..

jmorton10

Quote from: Xanadu on January 01, 2016, 12:35:15 PM
to prevent galling be sure to use some kind of lubricant.  once the bolt galls its cold welds itself and you cant take it apart.

I wanted to replace all the zinc plated fasteners on my motor with nice chromed ones...

You can use the show polished stainless from alloy boltz, that's what I did.  They look awesome & they send a small vial of Z-42 medium strength thread locker with the order & say make sure to use it.

~John
HC 124", Dragula, Pingel air shift W/Dyna Shift Minder & onboard compressor, NOS

GregOn2Wheels

I've put complete kits from Alloy Boltz on the past 3 bikes I've owned and never had a problem with one of them.  Also haven't had to look at those nasty stock fasteners either.  I've had the show polished and the regular ones.  IMO, the show polish are a waste except for in places that are right in your face like switch covers.  The difference between the stock bolts and the regular polished is stunning.

akjeff

I've had good luck with polished Grade 8 from AlloyBoltz. Nice folks to deal with, and nice product. I just use Blue Loctite(or anti seize if safety wiring), and torque to the lower spec they suggest with the instructions.

Jeff
'09 FLTR/120R/'91 XL1250 street tracker project/'07 DR-Z400S

Xanadu

Rags, what did you see happen with the stock zinc plated stamped HD allen head bolts and the S-100?

I use S-100 engine brightener after each bike wash and have never noticed any detremental effects on the stock Allen head HD bolts.

Let me know what you saw, I would like to look for that.


Smarty

My order from Alloy Boltz shipped out today. Complete kit and the caliper kit as well.
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Carol Burks

04 SE Deuce

Quote from: Xanadu on January 08, 2016, 10:59:26 AM
Rags, what did you see happen with the stock zinc plated stamped HD allen head bolts and the S-100?

I use S-100 engine brightener after each bike wash and have never noticed any detremental effects on the stock Allen head HD bolts.

Let me know what you saw, I would like to look for that.

I've used S100 since the mid 80's and haven't seen any problem.  You don't want to use on a warm engine or let sit in the sun.  Several years back Honda and Suzuki cleaner were S100,  don't know if they still are.

PoorUB

Quote from: 04 SE DEUCE on January 08, 2016, 02:44:04 PM
Quote from: Xanadu on January 08, 2016, 10:59:26 AM
Rags, what did you see happen with the stock zinc plated stamped HD allen head bolts and the S-100?

I use S-100 engine brightener after each bike wash and have never noticed any detremental effects on the stock Allen head HD bolts.

Let me know what you saw, I would like to look for that.

I seriously doubt the S100 engine brightener would ever be a problem for corrosion. The total cycle cleaner, possibly. I looked for an MSDS for S100 but could not find one, but my bet is the brightener is mostly silicone and propellant.

I've used S100 since the mid 80's and haven't seen any problem.  You don't want to use on a warm engine or let sit in the sun.  Several years back Honda and Suzuki cleaner were S100,  don't know if they still are.
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

turboprop

I get the convenience of pre-packaged 'kits', but for the OP, have you consider simply looking up the various bolt sizes none of the online harley parts manuals and buying the fasteners from someplace like Summit?

I have been doing this for years. The bolts typically come with washers and are sold in packs of five. The five to a pack will typically result in having a bolt or two left over, which is not a bad thing. After a few years of doing it this way I have a pretty good selection on hand of 12pt ARP hardware. Very handy for to have unhand for new projects or lost/missing bolts.

I source them from Summit with is probably lower than most other resellers.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/fasteners-hardware/brand/arp/part-type/bolts/fastener-head-style/12-point/fastener-finish/polished/washers-included/yes?N=4294951442%2B400295%2B4294920046%2B4294909414%2B4294908910%2B4294949151&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending
'We' like this' - Said by the one man operation.

No Cents

Quote from: turboprop on January 08, 2016, 03:56:33 PM
I get the convenience of pre-packaged 'kits', but for the OP, have you consider simply looking up the various bolt sizes none of the online harley parts manuals and buying the fasteners from someplace like Summit?

I have been doing this for years. The bolts typically come with washers and are sold in packs of five. The five to a pack will typically result in having a bolt or two left over, which is not a bad thing. After a few years of doing it this way I have a pretty good selection on hand of 12pt ARP hardware. Very handy for to have unhand for new projects or lost/missing bolts.

I source them from Summit with is probably lower than most other resellers.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/fasteners-hardware/brand/arp/part-type/bolts/fastener-head-style/12-point/fastener-finish/polished/washers-included/yes?N=4294951442%2B400295%2B4294920046%2B4294909414%2B4294908910%2B4294949151&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

  Ed...save yourself some money next time and get your ARP bolts and nuts from:
allensfasteners.com

  I just looked at your summit page and then went to allensfasteners to compare prices...much cheaper than summit.
If you know the size and lengths of the bolts you need...it would definitely be cheaper than buying a kit. He sells stainless, and black oxide ARP bolts, in 12 point and hex head. He also sells chrome bolts in SAE and metric.
Just trying to help.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

turboprop

I did a cost comparison last year with Allens Fasteners, maybe it was just the odd combination of sizes, but it was less expensive going to Summit. As I recall Allen charged extra for the washers, which I needed.
'We' like this' - Said by the one man operation.

No Cents

January 08, 2016, 06:05:05 PM #35 Last Edit: January 08, 2016, 06:15:43 PM by No Cents
 even buying washers separate...it's still cheaper than summit.

Summit
[attach=0]

allens fasteners
[attach=1]
[attachimg=3]
[attachimg=4]

  and here is the kicker...Summit charged $9.95 for shipping for the 10 bolts pictured...while Allen's fasteners charges $6.95 per order...if you buy 1 bolt or 100...the shipping is still $6.95.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

DoubleZ

So if you buy the bolts individually how do you know what the new torque specs should be?   I've replaced a few bolts on my bike with the black ARP stuff but didn't realize the torque specs should be different. 

hmd1


2006FXDCI

January 18, 2016, 10:27:30 PM #38 Last Edit: January 18, 2016, 10:50:25 PM by 2006FXDCI
We use this product from Swagelok on all our stainless hardware in the power plant i work at . Works real nice and ive never had a problem with galling using it .

2006 Super glide 107" , 2005 electra glide 124"

JohnCA58

Quote from: 2006FXDCI on January 18, 2016, 10:27:30 PM
We use this product from Swagelok on all our stainless hardware in the power plant i work at . Works real nice and ive never had a problem with galling using it

I use to do a lot of stainless plumbing on LNG tanks for trucks,  Swagelok is a great product.   :up:
YOLO

Alien

I am a big fan of Alloyboltz. I've been using them for years and I like that the wife kept the business going. I don't get the show polished, the standard 12 point stainless looks great and holds up well.

At first I used never seize but I would occasionally have some fasteners loosen and get a leak?

I used blue Loctite for a bit but was concerned about dissimilar metals and galling?

I believe I read it here but I started using Aviation gasket sealant. Just a dab to coat the threads. Never had a bolt loosen and I've always been able to remove any bolt I wanted to?