Polished stainless complete bolt kits for big twins.

Started by Smarty, December 31, 2015, 03:46:27 PM

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Smarty

Does anyone know if anyone but Diamond Engineering out of Florida makes the polished stainless replacement bolt kits for the big twin motors? Diamond is almost $350
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Carol Burks

rmc115

00 Fatboy, 95"wood tw6, diamond cut,se 44mm  <br />20 Ultra Limited

86fxwg

86fxwg 06flhx 10flhx

No Cents

 try:
allensfateners.com    ...for ARP or either chrome, or stainless bolts.
He charges the same $6.95 flat rate shipping for one bolt...or a hundred bolts.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

Smarty

Thanks guys. I knew some of you would know some others than Diamond Engineering. They are proud of their bolts for sure. I just checked out Alloy and much better pricing. Would you go with show polish stainless or the show polish grade 8 stainless on the primary, cam, covers, etc.
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Carol Burks

No Cents

 I don't care for stainless bolts into aluminum...myself.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

HighLiner

 :hug:
Quote from: Smarty on December 31, 2015, 04:43:48 PM
Thanks guys. I knew some of you would know some others than Diamond Engineering. They are proud of their bolts for sure. I just checked out Alloy and much better pricing. Would you go with show polish stainless or the show polish grade 8 stainless on the primary, cam, covers, etc.

If you ever plan on taking it back apart, spring for the grade 8.

Smarty

Quote from: HighLiner on December 31, 2015, 05:11:28 PM
:hug:
Quote from: Smarty on December 31, 2015, 04:43:48 PM
Thanks guys. I knew some of you would know some others than Diamond Engineering. They are proud of their bolts for sure. I just checked out Alloy and much better pricing. Would you go with show polish stainless or the show polish grade 8 stainless on the primary, cam, covers, etc.

If you ever plan on taking it back apart, spring for the grade 8.
That's exactly what I'm ordering. Doing it right the first time!
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Carol Burks

Smarty

Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 04:53:56 PM
I don't care for stainless bolts into aluminum...myself.

Ray

Why is that Ray? If torque wrenches are used, should be no problem of pulling the threads out I would think.
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Carol Burks

No Cents

 stainless bolts that have been bolted into aluminum don't play well together over time...even if properly torqued.
The different properties of the two metal alloys is what I'm referring to.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

Smarty

Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 06:00:57 PM
stainless bolts that have been bolted into aluminum don't play well together over time...even if properly torqued.
The different properties of the two metal alloys is what I'm referring to.

Ray

Gotcha, something to think about for sure
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Carol Burks

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 06:00:57 PM
stainless bolts that have been bolted into aluminum don't play well together over time...even if properly torqued.
The different properties of the two metal alloys is what I'm referring to.

Ray

:scratch:
Funny but I don't have any issues with them. like better than grade 8 Allen.
What becomes an issue is 304 into 304 without any lubricant. Can lock up tight.



No Cents

 I've just seen too many stainless bolts pull the threads out of aluminum when removing them. I ended up having to Heli-coil the bolt holes on many different instances.
Maybe it was just bad luck...and I wish it on no one...just stating what I've seen.

Ray
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

JohnCA58

December 31, 2015, 08:07:46 PM #13 Last Edit: December 31, 2015, 08:12:15 PM by JohnCA58
I have stainless ARP 12 pt. throughout my engine and transmission, always used a stainless dedicated lubricant and never had any issues.

Have always order from Alloyboltz.  Husband and wife team operating out of their garage.
YOLO

SOCS

+1 for Alloyboltz. Been buying from them for 13 years with no issues

Admiral Akbar

I'd suspect that the bolts were torqued too high. Especially if using ARP bolts. Finish is slicker than grade 8.  With a lubricant, its even worse. I use 304, torqued to 304 specs and a little blue and no issues to date.

1FSTRK

Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 06:53:43 PM
I've just seen too many stainless bolts pull the threads out of aluminum when removing them. I ended up having to Heli-coil the bolt holes on many different instances.
Maybe it was just bad luck...and I wish it on no one...just stating what I've seen.

Ray

I learned from the local shop that the proper loctite for the job will not only keep the bolt from coming loose but I have never had a reaction between the bolt and the aluminium or had to helicoil a hole.

Added
Not to take this off topic but every bolt gets a tq wrench.
"Never hang on to a mistake just because you spent time or money making it."

FXDBI

January 01, 2016, 08:38:37 AM #17 Last Edit: January 01, 2016, 09:01:02 AM by FXDBI
Quote from: Max Headflow on January 01, 2016, 08:15:06 AM
I'd suspect that the bolts were torqued too high. Especially if using ARP bolts. Finish is slicker than grade 8.  With a lubricant, its even worse. I use 304, torqued to 304 specs and a little blue and no issues to date.

:agree:   Drop of blue on the threads and min torque in a PROPER pattern never  had a problem been doing it that way since the 70s when Loctite was first shown to me. If bolts are not tightened in steps and in a proper pattern you will create problems with over tightened bolts.  Bob

SOCS

Quote from: Max Headflow on January 01, 2016, 08:15:06 AM
I'd suspect that the bolts were torqued too high. Especially if using ARP bolts. Finish is slicker than grade 8.  With a lubricant, its even worse. I use 304, torqued to 304 specs and a little blue and no issues to date.

:up: exactly, Alloyboltz includes paperwork that notes the lower torque spec

Smarty

Thanks for all the comments. I'm ordering on Monday from Allow.
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Carol Burks

rmc115

Alloy Boltz advises use of lock tite to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion. I have been using them for 10 years without any issue. I am too cheap to buy the full polish and the standard ones are a "light" polish look good and do not corrode like the stockers in 2 years. Mike
00 Fatboy, 95"wood tw6, diamond cut,se 44mm  <br />20 Ultra Limited

Xanadu

to prevent galling be sure to use some kind of lubricant.  once the bolt galls its cold welds itself and you cant take it apart.

I wanted to replace all the zinc plated fasteners on my motor with nice chromed ones... decided not to do that based on what I read at the beginning of my service manual.  Another thing I have found with the chrome plated fasteners is you can see orange in the allen sockets and around the bolt as the underlying steel rusts.  the stock HD bolts which are zinc plated hold up much better to corrosion  and I dont have to use a q-tip with polish on it to clean out the inside of the allen heads.

hattitude

Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 06:00:57 PM
stainless bolts that have been bolted into aluminum don't play well together over time...even if properly torqued.
The different properties of the two metal alloys is what I'm referring to.

Ray

I had to deal with this all the time maintaining/installing equipment on my boat. Obviously more apparent in a marine environment, but galvanic corrosion can/will happen when dissimilar metals come in contact with each other.

Limit the contact (isolate the metals), or exist in a less corrosive environment and the galvanic corrosion will be mitigated.

FYI:
http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contact

Rags722

January 07, 2016, 09:26:05 AM #23 Last Edit: January 08, 2016, 05:52:53 AM by Rags722
Quote from: Xanadu on January 01, 2016, 12:35:15 PM
to prevent galling be sure to use some kind of lubricant.  once the bolt galls its cold welds itself and you cant take it apart.

I wanted to replace all the zinc plated fasteners on my motor with nice chromed ones... decided not to do that based on what I read at the beginning of my service manual.  Another thing I have found with the chrome plated fasteners is you can see orange in the allen sockets and around the bolt as the underlying steel rusts.  the stock HD bolts which are zinc plated hold up much better to corrosion  and I dont have to use a q-tip with polish on it to clean out the inside of the allen heads.
I've always found the stock Zinc Plated and S-100 don't play well together... unless you use something close to the amount of water in Lake Eire to rinse the S-100 off.

Admiral Akbar

Quote from: hattitude on January 07, 2016, 09:20:38 AM
Quote from: No Cents on December 31, 2015, 06:00:57 PM
stainless bolts that have been bolted into aluminum don't play well together over time...even if properly torqued.
The different properties of the two metal alloys is what I'm referring to.

Ray

I had to deal with this all the time maintaining/installing equipment on my boat. Obviously more apparent in a marine environment, but galvanic corrosion can/will happen when dissimilar metals come in contact with each other.

Limit the contact (isolate the metals), or exist in a less corrosive environment and the galvanic corrosion will be mitigated.

FYI:
http://www.galvanizeit.org/design-and-fabrication/design-considerations/dissimilar-metals-in-contact

Good stuff.. This chart puts the 2 metals closer on the Galvanic Chart..

http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

While SS is more anodic than simple steel, both can corrode and stick in aluminum, especially when there is a electrolyte involved..