Smack-A-Hoe 124

[turboprop]

Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.

The condition of the crankshaft is still unknown. I really do not want to pull the guys out of the cam chest to measure runout on that side and I am am waiting for a ratchet wrench to turn the crank pin. As soon as that wrench comes in there will be a dial indicator on the crank pin. If ever I needed a break, now is that time.

So far the list of bent broken stuff includes; clutch basket, primary chain, adjuster shoe, inner primary case, rotor, transmission main shaft, and of course a couple hundred bucks worth of miscellaneous stuff required to change all these parts out. Please let the crank shaft be alright.

Ed, I have a ratcheting wrench for the fine spline TC crank. I suspect you have the early motor with the course though? If you can use the fine spline it'll be on the way tomorrow.

I hope that crank is ok, bad enough the transmission. What makes me worry now, is the 49 tooth Evo basket I have came with a longer Diamond primary chain.

[attach=0]

Thanks for the offer. I do have the early, course splined crank and the tool is already shipped. The suspension is killing me.

[kd]

I hope that crank is ok, bad enough the transmission. What makes me worry now, is the 49 tooth Evo basket I have came with a longer Diamond primary chain.


My 49 Evo Ind. basket came with a Regina D8R/CHR Italian made chain. I bought mine about 2 years ago if that matters.

[N-gin]

so what will be the go to chain for you?

That basket looks great!

[pwmorris]

This is a Diamond chain after just 11 passes and a couple hundred street miles.  Drag rep actually replaced, just can't bring myself to use one again.  I broke the stock chain last year, had about the same carnage as turboprop, except the chain took out my Evo basket. I just bought the Superclutch with MTC and its a steel basket.

Diamond=junk. Drag rep can have it for his 80 HP bagger, he shouldn't be able to pay you to run that in your bike.

Welcome to the big boy sandbox...nice Straight Cash

As far as busted parts......it comes with the territory, but pay now or pay later.
Build it right the first time, don't cut corners "cause you think it should be OK", cause it ain't OK. It's a bomb waiting to go off, just don't know when or where.
Build inside out, based on HP, TQ and expected use with NO compromises.....
Some guys cut corners on insurance too...."life insurance, flood, earthquake, extra coverage and less of a deductible on the house for coverage? Nah....I don't need that!"
"I heard it should be OK as is!"
No, you don't NEED it, not until the "Potty mouth" hits the fan. Feel lucky?

[kd]

PW, what are you seeing as top strength primary chain?

[turboprop]

This is a Diamond chain after just 11 passes and a couple hundred street miles.  Drag rep actually replaced, just can't bring myself to use one again.  I broke the stock chain last year, had about the same carnage as turboprop, except the chain took out my Evo basket. I just bought the Superclutch with MTC and its a steel basket.

Diamond=junk. Drag rep can have it for his 80 HP bagger, he shouldn't be able to pay you to run that in your bike.

Welcome to the big boy sandbox...nice Straight Cash

As far as busted parts......it comes with the territory, but pay now or pay later.
Build it right the first time, don't cut corners "cause you think it should be OK", cause it ain't OK. It's a bomb waiting to go off, just don't know when or where.
Build inside out, based on HP, TQ and expected use with NO compromises.....
Some guys cut corners on insurance too...."life insurance, flood, earthquake, extra coverage and less of a deductible on the house for coverage? Nah....I don't need that!"
"I heard it should be OK as is!"
No, you don't NEED it, not until the "Potty mouth" hits the fan. Feel lucky?

Like no "Potty mouth". I certainly didn't feel lucky last weekend as I was sliding my bike down NC55 at 90 mph with a locked up rear wheel. I thought the primary drive was good.

On the bench for this weekend is yet another Andrews transmission main shaft (2nd shaft within eight months), bearings for the Bissano door, 5th gear main bearing, internal 5th gear bearings, new Evolution billet basket, Delkron inner primary case, Twin Power fixed compensator sprocket, Bandit adjuster shoe, and a new primary chain from Harley.

Hopefully this stuff will hold up for a year without breaking.

If anyone has any solid, first hand information on which primary chain is strongest, I would like to hear from you.

[N-gin]

So far I'm seeing Diamond is Junk..

[HD/Wrench]

I have had the good luck with the Tsubaki chains myself .   Regina is OEM ..

[Ohio HD]

Tsubaki told me yesterday they are no longer selling any motorcycle products.


http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php?topic=102936.msg1215147#msg1215147

[HD/Wrench]

Ok but there is still stock for sale .. RK makes a 92 tooth chain never used it .. Funny how you can find out info on a drive chain but when it comes to the primary much harder to find out anything

[pwmorris]

Just to be clear, Tuboprop's stuff is badass Gucci level improvements for HD FXR's
Front, back and everything between is upgraded on the FXR Harley platform by him. He is one of the actual guys who BUILDS quality stuff-not buying it from a catalog, or copying it from someone else. Hat's off to him-
My point was directed to the usual suspects, as far too many focus all day on the HP a bike makes, but forget that everytime you upgrade the motor.....the chassis, clutch, tire, driveline, etc, all need to go with it. Those who don't do ALL the upgrades will find out the hard way. See it all the time.

As far as primary chains-
I run RK front to back, no shortcuts.
FRONT-
https://www.denniskirk.com/rk/primary-chain-428-2-76.p020422.prd/020422.sku

BACK-
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/166-6768/RK Chains Pro Drag Chain 530 Natural 180 Link

I used to order chains thru Bandit (They use Diamond, but IMO their QC and product has gone downhill in recent years). I liked that Bandit could get me the oddball sizes for the different engine and clutch teeth combos I use.

Let's be clear-there is no bullet proof primary chain over 160 HP/TQ plus, especially if you drag race or hammer it on a regular basis.
Bandit belt drive is the way to go-
Running chain, I dont complain or bitch about wear-it is part of maintenance IMO, and simply a part to change out, like a spark plug.
I just want it to last as long as possible, and those of you who abuse them need to check them, keep them tight, and keep a spare ready to go. No Big Deal.

[turboprop]

Thanks for the kind words PW. If it were easy, everyone would be doing it. One thing to write a check and have a dyno sheet. Something else to regularly go deep.

The usual suspects. Too funny. I have learned to separate the signal from the noise.

[ecir50]

Paul thanks for the feedback on the RK. You guys using the stock shoe and manual adjuster.

[turboprop]

Paul thanks for the feedback on the RK. You guys using the stock shoe and manual adjuster.

I am using the shoe from bandit that is made from a solid block along with the oem manual adjuster.

[ecir50]

Thanks, will give a look into the Bandit shoe.

[Ohio HD]

Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.

The condition of the crankshaft is still unknown. I really do not want to pull the guys out of the cam chest to measure runout on that side and I am am waiting for a ratchet wrench to turn the crank pin. As soon as that wrench comes in there will be a dial indicator on the crank pin. If ever I needed a break, now is that time.

So far the list of bent broken stuff includes; clutch basket, primary chain, adjuster shoe, inner primary case, rotor, transmission main shaft, and of course a couple hundred bucks worth of miscellaneous stuff required to change all these parts out. Please let the crank shaft be alright.

What did you find out with the crank?   

[turboprop]

Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.

The condition of the crankshaft is still unknown. I really do not want to pull the guys out of the cam chest to measure runout on that side and I am am waiting for a ratchet wrench to turn the crank pin. As soon as that wrench comes in there will be a dial indicator on the crank pin. If ever I needed a break, now is that time.

So far the list of bent broken stuff includes; clutch basket, primary chain, adjuster shoe, inner primary case, rotor, transmission main shaft, and of course a couple hundred bucks worth of miscellaneous stuff required to change all these parts out. Please let the crank shaft be alright.

What did you find out with the crank?

Have been out of town for a few weeks. The parts to replace the transmission main shaft and inner primary are all on hand. The plan for when I return is to rebuild the trans and inner primary before tearing into the engine. John Dahmer assures me it will be alright and I believe him, but would like to see what the dial indicator says.

[Ohio HD]

Those Evo Industries baskets are nice parts. I have one on a bike and another coming for the other. I wondered about the transmission shaft with that much damage in the primary.

The condition of the crankshaft is still unknown. I really do not want to pull the guys out of the cam chest to measure runout on that side and I am am waiting for a ratchet wrench to turn the crank pin. As soon as that wrench comes in there will be a dial indicator on the crank pin. If ever I needed a break, now is that time.

So far the list of bent broken stuff includes; clutch basket, primary chain, adjuster shoe, inner primary case, rotor, transmission main shaft, and of course a couple hundred bucks worth of miscellaneous stuff required to change all these parts out. Please let the crank shaft be alright.

What did you find out with the crank?

Have been out of town for a few weeks. The parts to replace the transmission main shaft and inner primary are all on hand. The plan for when I return is to rebuild the trans and inner primary before tearing into the engine. John Dahmer assures me it will be alright and I believe him, but would like to see what the dial indicator says.

I agree that John is very reliable with what he says. But like you, I would sleep better after seeing the needle barely move.

[HD/Wrench]

 I would want to know as well . Just to be sure ..  One would think it would be fine . But back to sleeping  the wondering part in the back of your mind.. ARRRGGG some days ignorance would really be bliss .

[turboprop]

I really did not want to empty out the cam chest to measure the runout and was just going to measure the output shaft side. But as mentioned, almost impossible to sleep at night with that little guy whispering in my ear.  After the trans is buttoned up and the bench is wiped down would be a good time to pull the guts out. If the crank needs attention it will be pretty easy at this stage to pull the engine. The current set of cams are gear drive, but if the runout is within range for some chain drive cams, that might be a course of action.

[turboprop]

Made some progress this weekend.

- Replaced the bent mains shaft, along with new ceramic bearings throughout the transmission.
- Mounted the NOS inner primary case.
- Cleaned and prepped everything for the next shop day.

The clutch consists of a Barnett branded Evolution basket, Bandit Sportman clutch w/new center hub & 10-plate pack. The front sprocket is from Twin Power/Vulcan and the new chain is from RK. Not really visible are the billet inspection cover and shift tube from Vulcan, ARP 12pt hardware, RedLine shock proof transmission oil and Redline primary case oil.

I feel confident with this setup.

[Ohio HD]

Good deal   

So I take it the crank checked out ok?

[turboprop]

Good deal   

So I take it the crank checked out ok?

Yes. Still less than .001" runout on both ends. Speaks volumes to the integrity of a Hoban Bros build crankshaft using S&S wheels and Carrillo rods. John said it would be straight and is was. I thoroughly enjoyed emptying out the cam chest though.

[Ohio HD]

Good deal   

So I take it the crank checked out ok?

Yes. Still less than .001" runout on both ends. Speaks volumes to the integrity of a Hoban Bros build crankshaft using S&S wheels and Carrillo rods. John said it would be straight and is was. I thoroughly enjoyed emptying out the cam chest though.

   

Good to hear about the crank. Makes me feel better about mine, knowing how tough they are. 

[turboprop]

Will add that the NOS inner primary came from my friend Eric Barton (aka Elvis Place). He made me a very good deal. Great guy and please dont turn my thread into a Elvis taste great/less filling thread.