Newest Comp Version

[LC110]

Has anyone had the opportunity to take one apart and get a real look at it?

[OldFLTRider]

Took a good CLOSE look at the comp in the cutaway M8 on display at Bike, Blues, and BBQ when I demoed a 2017.  The springs are oriented the same way they have been with the Twim Cam.  The one I rode had very little audible comp noise. 

[jmorton10]

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/sites/motorcyclistonline.com/files/styles/large_1x_/public/images/2016/08/bjn37706.jpg?itok=8y-N7Ucc

Hope it's ok to post this link. If not, maybe someone can figure out how to post the picture.

[Jako1]

The whole primary is new including the clutch, The Triglide has 9 plates the Freewheeler has 8, The actuator is all new as is the primary cover
At least 1 1/2 inches narrower
and shifts like a Honda
I will be drilling the shifter shaft for a grease zerk in the morning, like the factory used to

[Smarty]

Read that WASHER n put in Spring.... The Stack height was measured Then added a shim washer if Necessary (memory) .030?

Maybe Ron will correct me here...

signed....BUBBIE

No Bubbie,you had it right the 1st time,I said washer,but I really meant spring.Seemed like that worked pretty good,except you would need a junk comp to get the extra spring out of.

We have added one of the middle size spring washer to several bikes with good success. Two of them have over 17,000 miles on them now with no noise coming from the comp. We just installed one in a 16 Rushmore bike with the extra washer facing the same way as the one it is up against. Looks like it spends more time more toward the center of the ramp and not as much on the tip of the ramp.

[LC110]

Anyone have a new service manual for the M8? Would like to know what the torque on the bolt is with the new washer.
The PEEK washer is thin about half the width of the old bearing and washer set up.

[rbabos]

Anyone have a new service manual for the M8? Would like to know what the torque on the bolt is with the new washer.
The PEEK washer is thin about half the width of the old bearing and washer set up.

Washer has nothing to do with torque as it isn't under any pressure but what the springs provide under cam ramping. How do you know that material is PEEK? We used it but as much as HD likes copying what we have done,  I'm sure they came up with their own different brand of plastic.
Ron

[Admiral Akbar]

Anyone have a new service manual for the M8? Would like to know what the torque on the bolt is with the new washer.
The PEEK washer is thin about half the width of the old bearing and washer set up.

Washer has nothing to do with torque as it isn't under any pressure but what the springs provide under cam ramping. How do you know that material is PEEK? We used it but as much as HD likes copying what we have done,  I'm sure they came up with their own different brand of plastic.
Ron

I surely wish you knew what you are talking about..

[LC110]

Ron your right I don't know if it is PEEK  or not. It was my assumption it was.
I happen to have a couple of them.
Just thinking of using them in place of the current washers and bearing setup.

[rbabos]

Anyone have a new service manual for the M8? Would like to know what the torque on the bolt is with the new washer.
The PEEK washer is thin about half the width of the old bearing and washer set up.

Washer has nothing to do with torque as it isn't under any pressure but what the springs provide under cam ramping. How do you know that material is PEEK? We used it but as much as HD likes copying what we have done,  I'm sure they came up with their own different brand of plastic.
Ron

I surely wish you knew what you are talking about..

Nothing has changed, has it? Still pissy about Compensaver huh? Get over it.
Ron

[les]

Anyone have a new service manual for the M8? Would like to know what the torque on the bolt is with the new washer.
The PEEK washer is thin about half the width of the old bearing and washer set up.

If you're talking about the compensating sprocket bolt:

- Tighten bolt to 100 ft-lbs
- Loosen one half turn
- Final tighten to 175 ft-lbs

This, of course, assumes you're using a brand new bolt.


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[FSG]

and if your using a new screw/bolt I'd be removing the dry locking patch that's on it and using loctite

[les]

and if your using a new screw/bolt I'd be removing the dry locking patch that's on it and using loctite

Have you had bad luck with the dry patch?  I've done a bunch, and my experience is that patch holds as tight as concrete. 


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[FSG]

and my experience is that patch holds as tight as concrete. 

it does that alright     ,  but I remove the patch on all new fasteners preferring loctite as the patch can distort torque readings

[hogpipes1]

The whole primary is new including the clutch, The Triglide has 9 plates the Freewheeler has 8, The actuator is all new as is the primary cover
At least 1 1/2 inches narrower
and shifts like a Honda
I will be drilling the shifter shaft for a grease zerk in the morning, like the factory used to

Better be careful you might void the bike warranty. 

[sbeamer]

Read that WASHER n put in Spring.... The Stack height was measured Then added a shim washer if Necessary (memory) .030?

Maybe Ron will correct me here...

signed....BUBBIE

No Bubbie,you had it right the 1st time,I said washer,but I really meant spring.Seemed like that worked pretty good,except you would need a junk comp to get the extra spring out of.

We have added one of the middle size spring washer to several bikes with good success. Two of them have over 17,000 miles on them now with no noise coming from the comp. We just installed one in a 16 Rushmore bike with the extra washer facing the same way as the one it is up against. Looks like it spends more time more toward the center of the ramp and not as much on the tip of the ramp.

Where did you get the spring washer,(aka belleville) from?  Not sure about the spelling

[Smarty]

Read that WASHER n put in Spring.... The Stack height was measured Then added a shim washer if Necessary (memory) .030?

Maybe Ron will correct me here...

signed....BUBBIE

No Bubbie,you had it right the 1st time,I said washer,but I really meant spring.Seemed like that worked pretty good,except you would need a junk comp to get the extra spring out of.

We have added one of the middle size spring washer to several bikes with good success. Two of them have over 17,000 miles on them now with no noise coming from the comp. We just installed one in a 16 Rushmore bike with the extra washer facing the same way as the one it is up against. Looks like it spends more time more toward the center of the ramp and not as much on the tip of the ramp.

Where did you get the spring washer,(aka belleville) from?  Not sure about the spelling

From a spring pack off of a replaced compensator kit.  I'm sure someone is making spacer kits. Baker probably or I'm sure at the dealerships there are tons lying around from change outs if they didn't toss them


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[rbabos]

and my experience is that patch holds as tight as concrete. 

it does that alright     ,  but I remove the patch on all new fasteners preferring loctite as the patch can distort torque readings

Same here. Wire wheel and off it comes.  I prefer easy spin in as apposed to fighting friction with the patch. To me, that stuff is more for assembly line speed, reducing application steps. It's also nasty for applying one sided pressure on the bolt threads in aluminum reducing thread contact with enough repeated in and outs. It slowly enlarges the hole.
Ron

[masstch]

and my experience is that patch holds as tight as concrete. 

it does that alright     ,  but I remove the patch on all new fasteners preferring loctite as the patch can distort torque readings

Same here. Wire wheel and off it comes.  I prefer easy spin in as apposed to fighting friction with the patch. To me, that stuff is more for assembly line speed, reducing application steps. It's also nasty for applying one sided pressure on the bolt threads in aluminum reducing thread contact with enough repeated in and outs. It slowly enlarges the hole.
Ron

I believe the "lockpatch' on the factory bolts is the sole reason for the "staged" torque procedures AND the factory claim that new bolts must be purchased for some applications. As far as I can find, the new style Torx crank bolt is NOT a "Torque To Yield" bolt.
Notably, despite the factory's insistence that the bolt be replaced any and every time it's removed, I've not found many dealers that bother to stock the bolt. There are many reasons to remove it to service other things without replacing the comp and they claim they follow the book... but they don't have the bolt?

[rbabos]

and my experience is that patch holds as tight as concrete. 

it does that alright     ,  but I remove the patch on all new fasteners preferring loctite as the patch can distort torque readings

Same here. Wire wheel and off it comes.  I prefer easy spin in as apposed to fighting friction with the patch. To me, that stuff is more for assembly line speed, reducing application steps. It's also nasty for applying one sided pressure on the bolt threads in aluminum reducing thread contact with enough repeated in and outs. It slowly enlarges the hole.
Ron

I believe the "lockpatch' on the factory bolts is the sole reason for the "staged" torque procedures AND the factory claim that new bolts must be purchased for some applications. As far as I can find, the new style Torx crank bolt is NOT a "Torque To Yield" bolt.
Notably, despite the factory's insistence that the bolt be replaced any and every time it's removed, I've not found many dealers that bother to stock the bolt. There are many reasons to remove it to service other things without replacing the comp and they claim they follow the book... but they don't have the bolt?

Trust me, at that torque rating it's in stretch. Grade9 I believe. How many cycles it can handle is a guess, which is why a replacement is advisable. Many don't however.
Ron

[rageglide]

and my experience is that patch holds as tight as concrete. 

it does that alright     ,  but I remove the patch on all new fasteners preferring loctite as the patch can distort torque readings

I view the lock patch as time release loctite.  Semi-encapsulated and soft enough that when you start leaning into things it lubes to some degree.  Fresh loctite when you screw things together by hand and then say "Potty mouth", where's that torx bit and search for 5 minutes only to find it rolled out of sight under the bike, the stuff is TIGHT when you touch it.  I don't find the lock patch to do that.

I've reused the torx bolt about 5 times now.  Maybe time for a new one.  In fact, I think I'll buy one and measure it against the one I've reused.  I'm guessing my well used one isn't longer.  That's a bad*ss bolt.

[rbabos]

and my experience is that patch holds as tight as concrete. 

it does that alright     ,  but I remove the patch on all new fasteners preferring loctite as the patch can distort torque readings

I view the lock patch as time release loctite.  Semi-encapsulated and soft enough that when you start leaning into things it lubes to some degree.  Fresh loctite when you screw things together by hand and then say "Potty mouth", where's that torx bit and search for 5 minutes only to find it rolled out of sight under the bike, the stuff is TIGHT when you touch it.  I don't find the lock patch to do that.

I've reused the torx bolt about 5 times now.  Maybe time for a new one.  In fact, I think I'll buy one and measure it against the one I've reused.  I'm guessing my well used one isn't longer.  That's a bad*ss bolt.

It's more of a matter of cyclic stretch loads not length change and no two will be exactly the same length. At some point it will snap coming up to full torque. Now, if you have red loctite on the threads in the crank bore, well let's say it's going to be a bad day.
Ron

[rageglide]

I suppose so.  100% agreement it will be a very bad scene if the bolt breaks in the crank snout and has loctite...