gear box main shaft and inner clutch hub upgrade to splines? can it be done?

Started by 1340evo, July 07, 2017, 12:07:17 PM

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1340evo

great info Dan.. thanks for the PM... (your mailbox is full BTW so I could not reply).. .. ive bought a 1990 Harley-Davidson FLHS Electra Glide Clutch Basket w/ Primary Gear & Chain from the US.. total cost in the UK around $350!!!.. this i sthe problem here with shipping and tax... I now need the shaft. or as you say, will look for a full gear assy.. whats the advantage of this over getting the shaft?.. are the later ones stronger / better ratio etc? Im fine with what I have now performance wise and again, its the shipping costs / tax on anything more epensive that kills it... I'm guessing I'll need to do something with the clutch pushrod but will see when it all arrives... Mid summer and off the road!.. bummer  :chop:

Dan89flstc

The 1990 mainshaft is the only shaft that is compatable with your current gearset.

But if you cannot find a `90 mainshaft, don`t give up, you can simply use an entire later model gearset from any model year. Check with your local independent shops, they may have gearsets that were removed when the 6 speed upgrade was popular.
US Navy Veteran
A&P Mechanic

1340evo

Lots of 90 shafts out there.. but the cheapest is $170.. plus $30 to ship then plus $40 tax plus $ 10 uk charge so you can see, it soon adds up...
There will be nothing in the UK.. only 2 or 3 big breaker of HD this side and I've checked with them all.. .and if they did have a gear set it would be $500 !...

If there is not advantage, I'll just get the shaft... cheaper to ship etc...

Will try pull the existing out tonight and inspect what I have also... Make sure I don't have any chips :)

1340evo

Well, its all out.. and in great condition.. Made a puller the get the inner primary bearing off and it worked a treat.. so if anyone needs one (UK obviously)

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.. It's here....

Anyone know how you get the bearing on the new shaft?... I was thinking just tubes and the screw on the end of the shaft, but coming off it was seriously tight?.. is there another way??



FSG

I use PVC Tube and washers, HD have a special tool P/N-I-Forget , while S&S have their own (Link Below)

What IPB Race do you plan to put back on?

https://www.sscycle.com/docs/default-source/instruction-sheets/51-1219_innerprimarybearingracepn56-5145_20060824.pdf

1340evo

PVC tube?.. no.. it was tighter than that... ?
I was going to put the same one back as it feals tight enough and the rollers are in good shape (30k miles on the bike)... there are two new ones came with the bike ... 530510 ALL BALLS kit.. and JIMS 8960 but think thats 90 up? i could use one of these but the original does look good?.

rigidthumper

Do yourself a huge favor and replace the shifter pawl spring (34087-79A) while you're there.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Mark222

Quote from: rigidthumper on July 14, 2017, 04:31:41 PM
Do yourself a huge favor and replace the shifter pawl spring (34087-79A) while you're there.


Yep, and get the Baker, better all around....

Mark

1340evo

Okay.. will do... going back to the pulley spacer... whats the deal with that?... do I need to replace it, how do they fail?.... Thanks

Dan89flstc

First you need to figure out what length pulley spacer your need to work with the chain sprocket configuration.

The old configuration pulley spacer is .250" longer than the new one.
US Navy Veteran
A&P Mechanic

Burnout

I am surprised it was not upgraded when the chain conversion was done.
It is possible that the sprocket is tougher than the pulley and will live.
But the real problem is the narrow base, the thin spacer provides less support than the nut.
With the upgrade the spacer has the same or more area as the nut.
The upgraded spacer is also ~1/4" shorter which gives the pulley/sprocket a better/wider grip on the splines.
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

1340evo

ok.. thanks... so get a bigger one (thinner oil seal)... and maybe a mushroom head version... i can make one at work   :wink:


Burnout

You could make a larger diameter spacer like the -94 and use the -94 seal.

You would need to make the spacer the same length as the early spacer so you don't have to change the drive sprocket.

You could also drill the sprocket for the 2 bolt lock tab. It will not guarantee locking the nut but it will hold better than the single screw. (If the lock ring will fit inside the sprocket)
They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm "hard headed"

1340evo

yup.. will do.. any idea if the spacer is hardened at all?... I can test it when I get it off... will make one ... Cheers...

1340evo

Well, a big thanks to eveyone who contributed to this thread.. job now done and the 1990 clutch over the 1989 one is sooooo much better.
well worth while modification and for some reason, the gearbox feals so much smoother and getting neutral is much easier....
Thanks again for all your post  :up: :up: :up: :up: