HarleyTechTalk

Quote from: fbn ent on Yesterday at 09:30:23 AMI'm pretty sure you can fail it while still under warranty...

I'm sure I could, but I'd rather not. I just want it to work for a few years.

I'm pretty sure you can fail it while still under warranty...

I got it with a little help from a friend using my olde Shovel socket. Had to go one hole more to line up. A little over but should work...

Too late now, I'm committed to this one until it craps out. Hopefully either 5 plus years, or less than 2 and under warranty.
The bike is 23 years old, the frame is a little rusty from a lot of salt, the motor is running great but a lot of hard miles. A lot of hard miles. Spoke wheels are original, the rear spokes have salt rust but shockingly still holding, the whole bike just plain tired. The reverse cone baffle even removed itself from the ThunderHeader. It's possible this battery lasts longer than the bike!
 One thing I've never done is crank the starter for long periods. The most it has turned over was 3 or 4 seconds, but those are rare occurances. If it doesn't start right away, there is an issue. It's carb'd,  so I've got pretty specific procedures that always work well depending on cold or hot start. I know it has saved the starter, and probably the battery too.

A few more bucks and you can get a Drag Specialties Yuasa rebranded 500 cca battery. With finger holes to lift it. You might even be able to get a discount. Made in Pennsylvania.

2113-0322 Premium Performance Battery

A little more info: BatteriesPlus had two batteries when I bought the original, a Chinese made 400cca, and a USA made 400cca, of course I went with the USA made unit, which had nice lead terminals, as shown in the strap picture. When I bought the new one, no option was given and I forgot to ask. Got home and the battery had the crappy flimsy steel terminals. I called the store, clerk said they don't have the USA made unit anymore.
Well crap. I thought about returning it and going to pick up the Drag battery from the indy shop, but wasn't up for monkeying around anymore, so installed the Chinese Duracell. We'll see how it does.
I'll measure voltage tonight after charging last night and sitting for a day and see how it reads before trying to start the bike. I'm sure it will be fine, but I'm still disappointed.

Code 3510, replace induction module, 1.2 hours

remove replace induction module 2010 twincam shop time book time etc

Take the pushrod parts out of the transmission and inspect them for damage. Inspect the pressure plate to see that it slides smoothly. Inspect the spring to see that it's not damaged somehow, inspect the clutch basket to see if the plates are hanging up, inspect the release ramps for strange wear or damage. Check the clutch cable for what rigidthumper said about having been used as a ground.

There are only so many parts that move when the clutch lever is pulled. So they all need to be checked.

the throwout bearing looks fine and the hand operation is smooth  just when i begin to use up the free play it clunks or clicks depending on your hearing , I have adjusted almost all the free play out of the adjuster, goes into gear nice shifts nice smooth action on the clutch, what could posibly be wrong?