HarleyTechTalk

14,468 miles.

I was going to check everything  in a couple of weeks over the long holiday weekend, doing the 15k service.





Sooo.... any point in going aftermarket, or is the stock HD disk just as good?

One reason I use 80% front brake, I was going thru rear pads every 6000 miles on my old RoadKing, I was a heavy rear brake user. I think now that the rear tires last so much longer, the brakes don't get checked as often as they used to, especially on baggers, as you have found.
Can't help you on the rotor, I just went stock HD, easy and available.

I got about 25K on my first set of rears and almost 40K on the front.  I also downshift a lot more than I brake.

I have a 14 FLHTK with 60,000 miles on it.  I'm not hard on the brakes.  What I have been doing is changing all the brake pads when I change tires.  I've done the tire and brake pad changes at about 20,000 miles.  There is not much left on the rear pads when I changed them but the manual only calls for replacement when the pad is only 0.180 thick.  There are also wear indicator groves cut into the pad.  Another thing to remember with the Linked Braking is that everytime (over 20 - 25 mph) you use the front brake, the system activates the rear brake.  So even if you never use the brake pedal the rear brake still is used.  Conversely, when using the rear brake, the system causes the left front caliper to activate.  When checking wear on the front brake pads be sure to check the left side as that side will have more wear.

Why do you want to change the disk? Is it not working well anymore, or just for looks? Pad looks great. Disk can be shined up with a lot of elbow grease.

Quote from: truck on May 14, 2016, 04:52:19 AM
Why do you want to change the disk? Is it not working well anymore, or just for looks? Pad looks great. Disk can be shined up with a lot of elbow grease.

Disk has metal to metal transfer. It could be turned I suppose but I don't know who around here could do it.

The pic is deceiving.... there is no pad left, just the metal backing plate.

If I recall I replaced the pads all around on my 2010 at 45,000 miles. Then one day I noticed the rear pad was gone at about 60,000 miles, not sure why it went so quickly. I was in a hurry, no time to pull the wheel and swap the rotor and it had been running metal to metal and was in tough shape, so I slapped in a set of pads and ran it. Now at 78,000 miles the rotor looks fine, plenty of pad, and the brakes work as well as they ever did.

 

Sure Strange how The New Pads Machined the rear Rotor into Good Shape again.... Did You pay that machinist a cold one or Two?

over 120,000 on my King and the rotors are in Good shape. Can't tell you how many Brake Pad sets have been changed as They Last so Long...

My 09 is Independent Braking. Up to me to apply Correctly...

Now Lifters? That's a Different story...

signed....BUBBIE

For the $$, oem discs are about the best you'll get, certainly for the heavy bikes.
I use and recommend EBC pads. Don't wanna start a name brand war, so I'll add that I use
their double H sintered pads.

I've always been happy with stock rotors and brake pads on my 2013  Limited.   Haven't seen any need to go aftermarket.  (and I use the rear brake a lot when competing). 


Ken

Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on May 14, 2016, 07:17:42 AM

Quote from: truck on May 14, 2016, 04:52:19 AM
Why do you want to change the disk? Is it not working well anymore, or just for looks? Pad looks great. Disk can be shined up with a lot of elbow grease.

Disk has metal to metal transfer. It could be turned I suppose but I don't know who around here could do it.

The pic is deceiving.... there is no pad left, just the metal backing plate.

Sure fooled me.

Pic fooled me to! I've tried several brands and compounds and have gone back to organic kevlar like the factory ones. Dusty but quiet and good feel to them. Been using the Drag Specialties kevlar. Around $25 a pair.

Quote from: Wicked on May 14, 2016, 11:30:38 AM
For the $$, oem discs are about the best you'll get, certainly for the heavy bikes.
I use and recommend EBC pads. Don't wanna start a name brand war, so I'll add that I use
their double H sintered pads.

EBC.   

Probably had a few more miles in them...



Man, what a F&%&* up day. I had been planning to ride down to The Quail Gathering classic MC show. Comes once a year, REALLY high end stuff. Spent the day in the garage & chasing parts instead.

I had been telling (lying to) myself my rear tire had another thousand miles in it. Got the wheel off & find these...







Sh*t.


Found a Cycle Gear  about an hour & 15 minutes away that had an American Elite in stock, would take a few hours to get it mounted... others in line. They also had SBC HH pads, got those too. So, I dropped it off & went 45 minute the other way to the dealer for the disk. That they had, but no screws & the manual says not to reuse them. Pissed around until my tire was done, then 45 minutes the other way to another dealer that had the screws. Didn't even get home 'til 4:30.

Months ago I put Ride On tire sealer/balancer in 'cause the Internet said to, best not to argue with the Internet. Now I'm a believer...



That tire had at least 2 through holes & was never more than 2 pounds low during the time it was on there.

So, about $500 gone, half the weekend wasted, and pretty much nothing to show for it. Yeah, I can stop when I want... woot.

I keep reusing those rotor screws so now I suppose something bad will happen. At least my rockers shafts won't be ticken when it does.

Running around for parts is a pain, but new tires and brakes are never really wasted time, though it feels like it when there are more fun things to do instead.

I reuse the rotor screws also. Blue loctite and torque to spec. Have not had a problem. My guess is mothership wants new for liability reasons.

Quote from: klammer76 on May 15, 2016, 07:18:00 AM
I reuse the rotor screws also. Blue loctite and torque to spec. Have not had a problem. My guess is mothership wants new for liability reasons.

i restore threads on the screws and hub -- blue loctite, stagger torque them....then I mark the bolt head on the rotor....they have never loosened

I too am a big fan of EBC.  I recommend Double H Sintered.  They will last much longer than OEM HD pads with 80% less dust and they are rotor friendly and to add, they have better stopping power and less fade.  Why go with OEM when something better is available and cost less?  The only pad I think that is better is the Lyndall Gold plus.  But they are pricey!