'07 Big Twin Owners w/Idle Speed Issues

[WVULTRA]

Having been involved with the IAC Steps issues from previous posts, I was reminded of TT410 and remembered I had failed to check the TP set screw when I had the Induction Module off during the upgrade.

http://harleytechtalk.com/htt/index.php/topic,11130.0.html

Seems there were issues with the '07 BTs having no/improper loctite applied during manufacture that resulted in the TP set screw loosing it's original position and actually backing in/out of the Throttle Body.  So I pulled the air cleaner and backing plate off to expose the set screw, and sure enough it could be turned easily using a 1/4" nut driver and a 5-point Tamper Proof Torx.

My initial fix was to use a feeler gauge and set the gap at 6:00 o'clock position from what I had read on earlier posts/forums.  Then proceeded to use green "wicking" loctite to semi-permanantly lock the set screw into position.  Riding the bike right after this "fix" I was shocked to have high rpm flare on cold start-up, and a high, "hanging" flare even on warm starts!  Returned home and later decided to review TT410 and do a couple of idle Data Recordings right in the garage to check TPS Volts and IAC Steps from cold to a fairly warm idle.

Seems my throttle blade setting was too large, and I was getting constant 0.64v on the TPS and IAC Steps of 10-11 when warm.  Not good.  I began thinking of the 0.57v setting that was recommended in TT410 and remembered my last data recording prior to changing the blade air gap was staying a constant 0.55v.  Not wanting to take the bike to a dealer to have the blade position set via the Digital Technician, and realizing my use of the feeler gauge may not be the optimal way either I decided to try setting the volts using TTS Data Master.

Started a Data Recording with ignition switch and start/run switch on but engine off.  Low and behold, moving the throttle stop screw was showing the TPS Volts increasing or decreasing as I moved the throttle blade fore and aft via the set screw.  Removed the set screw, applied liberal coating of blue loctite (green wicking loctite prevents adjustment/removal unless liberal heat is applied), adjusted the set screw to desired volts using Data Master, and after giving the loctite several hours to set up I started the bike, and had instant success!

With the IAC WU and Crank to Runs Tables at their original settings the bike would start perfectly and be at the perfect RPM as soon as the bike fired.  No minimal flare of a couple hundred rpms as before, and the bike continued to start at the perfect initial rpm even when fully warm.

Some of the experts here are probably already aware of this function; however, I wanted to point this out as another outstanding feature of the TTS Master Tune System that I personally was unaware of.

HTHs!

[pauly]

Thanks for that - so.. .55 volts is the correct voltage?
Pauly

[WVULTRA]

Thanks for that - so.. .55 volts is the correct voltage?
Pauly

Pauly:

Per TT410 0.57 is where to set it initially.  Mine dropped 0.02 when it was actually running, but IMO that was close enough as the bike still starts at the perfect rpm hot and cold.

So I would set .57 and take it from there.

HTHs!