Tips on fine Tuning the DTT TCFI IId

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

I never cease to learn something with this system.  I thought I would share this tip.

Alpha N Table ........ fuel mileage

In the Alpha N 0% TPS row (left to right), the numbers you put in after, say, 1750 rpms are important, too.  I did not think they were very important and I would not pay much attention to them so long as I was not getting a lot of deceleration exhaust popping.  For example, if my alpha n number in that 0% row at 1000 rpms was 29, I would just carry that 29 number to 7500 rpms without much thought.  I spent more time on the cells at 5% TPS and above since that is where you spend your time riding and the 29 number at 1000 to 1250 rpms worked fine for idle.  I noticed my gas mileage drop.  I put the Palm Pilot on the bike, went for a cruise, and looked at TPS, RPM and AFR signal (O2 sensor read) at 70 mph in top gear.  I was showing 13.5 to 13.8 AFR at cruise throttle position at that speed.  I should be getting 40 miles per gallon, but I was not.  Since I engine brake a whole lot, I noticed the AFR read-out was 10.5 to 11.5 when the throttle position was at 0%, decelerating, from 3000 rpms or even higher rpms and down shifting for engine braking.  That was the answer to my mileage problem.  The alpha n number above 1750 was the same as the alpha n number at idle.  Decelerating puts less "load" on the engine and it needs less fuel than when it is trying to idle -- or some other explanation with the same result:  too much fuel when decelerating  (the real explanation is that the amount of air entering the TB changes at higher rpms at the same throttle position).  The moral to the story is that decreasing the fuel supply while decelerating (0% row or maybe even the 5% row, high rpms) is a better idea and will result in better gas mileage.

The general rule, except for WOT where the alpha n number will follow the torque curve of the engine, is that the alpha n number in a row (left to right) will decrease with an increase in RPMs, and the alpha n numbers will always (except WOT) increase in a column (top to bottom) with an increase in TPS percentage.  This general rule will aid manual smoothing questions, too.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Start Adder Table and humps in the TPSensor ....... Adjusting the Throttle Plate

If you need to increase your idle air volume and increasing the throttle plate clearance is not an option, then the IAC position can be increased by accessing the Start Adder Table (2d table).  An increase in the start adder table default numbers will increase the position of the IAC (which lets in more air).  I have seen the IAC move down at least 70 steps when going from cold engine temp to operating engine temp.  It may go down even more.  As the IAC number decreases, the idle air to the engine which passes through the IAC port decreases.  So, if you need to increase idle air, you can increase the IAC position with this table.  Remember to reset your TPS voltage to .4 volts after this adjustment to the IAC.

If you need more throttle plate air flow, set your TPS voltage to .4, then adjust your throttle plate while watching your TPS voltage in "TPS View".  You may notice that your throttle plate can be opened an additional .002" or so without changing the TPS voltage -- which is probably due to the fact the TPS sensor is not very sensitive or very linear.  In short, the TPS sensor seems to have "humps" in it which will not react to small changes in the throttle plate position.  If you are on the wrong side of the hump, so to speak, the TPS sensor can jump even with small throttle plate position changes.  It depends on where you find the "hump" in the TPS sensor.

[speedglide]

Awesome work!  Just wanted to let ya know there are a few of us using the DTT's and appreciate you taking the time to point out the in's and out's of the system!!!!
I have been running a DTT now for over a year on a mostly stock 88.  I tore the motor apart and had HQ give it a work over for me. I'm sure the tuning will be a bit more involved this time with all aftermarket parts!
Jason

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

IAC Manual Override .......... starting problems

The IAC manual override is a valuable diagnostic tool.  If your engine will not start and you suspect or see that the IAC is too low or even too high, then use IAC manual override to move the IAC to where you want it and try to start it.  If it starts, then it gives you some idea of where the IAC needs to be to start the engine at the temperature you are having trouble with.  Usually, at 110C ET, the IAC should be at 30 or even as low as 25 for bigger engines/throttle bodies.  Generally, I find that even on a cold engine, if I put the IAC manual override to 35, it will start.  Of course, cold in Texas is not as cold as in Minnesota and that setting might be too low for northern climates.

Here is how you use IAC override.  Turn on the handle bar switch and then the tank switch.  Open the Log program.  Go to IAC Manual override.  Select the number you think will work having some idea of what your current IAC position is as a reference point.  Type in the number, don't do anything else except hit the start button on the bike.  If it starts ......... .  Be prepared for lean surge in that the motor could race up to 4000 rpms ....... be ready to shut it off.  When you turn off the handle bar switch or tank switch, the IAC manual override is lost.  If it did not start, try another number, using the process above, and see what happens.

If you find the right number, what do you do? Well, that is the subject of another post later, hopefully.  If you can't find a number that works, it might not be the IAC stepper motor.  It could be the TPS voltage or the throttle plate clearance or what is usually the case, a combination of problems from intake vacuum leak to broken throttle plate shaft to something much simpler.

When you type in a number, you should be able to hear the IAC motor respond and go to the correct spot before you hit the start button.  If you don't hear it move, then start over until you do hear it move.  This assumes you are putting in a number significantly different than the one the IAC is currently on in order to deflect the motor to an audible degree.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Priming Pulses, flooding and fuel system check

Each time you hit the on button on the handlebar followed by turning on the tank switch, a priming pulse of fuel emits from the injectors.  If you want to see if the injectors are flowing fuel, at least a priming pulse, open the throttle to 100%, look in the manifold at both injectors, turn on the on switch at the handle bar, then the tank switch and you should see the fuel emit from each injector.  You are not starting the engine.  Do this often enough and the fuel will puddle in the manifold and skew the AFR reading, if not flood the engine, which can cause diagnostic confusion when trying to get a stubborn engine with starting problems to start.  This process will give a cursory check of several systems:  fuel pressure, injector wiring connections, injector flow etc..

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Zeros and ones .......... and 100, too.

In the BLM tables a 0 put in a particular cell will prevent two things from happening:  the system will not log data in that cell and the system will not tune that cell.  Putting a 1 on a cell, will allow data to be logged but no tuning will occur in that cell.

When do you use a 1?  When a cell is properly tuned and you want no further tuning in that cell.  When might you not want further tuning in a particular cell?  I find the primary reason to be that for one reason or another (such as fuel robbing in overlap cam timing or exhaust reversion events or exhaust over-scavenging events) a cell is hard to tune.  Once you get it tuned, it will tend to degrade due to events mentioned above or some other event.  Thereafter, continual application of the BLM to the Alpha N map merely causes the Alpha N map to post an incorrect number with a resulting degradation of the tune in that cell.  I find this to be especially true in the 2.5% or 5% rows just off idle.  Once you get that cell tuned, put a 1 in that cell in the BLM chart, save the the table, then upload it.  No further tuning of that cell will occur.  You can then allow the BLM to tune the other cells after which you apply the BLM to the Alpha N table without disturbing the alpha n number with the BLM application since a 1 is in that cell.

When do you use a 0?  One reason is when you want the same effect of the 1 mentioned above AND you don't need to log data such as an idle cell which consumes memory in the logged data, especially if you are idling the bike for a prolonged time period.

What does the 100 do?  In the BLM table, you can reset the entire table by hitting reset and all BLM adjustments are erased from the BLM table.  Schoeder calls this "normalizing the BLM table" and all the BLM cells will show 100.  You might do this when you ran the bike, discovered that your VSS number was off, so your speed was off which will skew the FI map, and you just want to start over so, you reset the entire BLM table to 100.  Alternatively, you can put 100 in any particular cell to wipe out the BLM data in that cell solely but leave the others intact for application to the Alpha N table.  So, insert 100 in that cell, then apply the BLM and the Alpha N is modified in every applicable cell except the cell you put the 100 in.

Generally speaking, the off idle performance will tend to degrade.  In other words, if you are at a stop sign and you take off normally, over time I find that repeated applications of the BLM will tend to make the cells used immediately when leaving the stop sign to become worse and worse.  So, put a 1 in that cell, save the table to buffer and upload it, once you have it tuned, future tuning will not occur in that cell, yet you will tune other cells not containing a 1 or 0 (or a 100) number with repeated application of the BLM.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Closed loop or open loop?

Once the map is fully and accurately developed, I go to open loop.  Period.  Why?  The system operates better and is more responsive in my opinion.  It just runs better.  However, if significant changes in altitude (barometric changes) are expected, don't go to open loop since the DTT TCFI will take a barometric pressure reading each time the bike is turned on when in closed loop.  This barometric pressure reading will not be constantly done unless you check off Continual Barometric Pressure Update in Basic Parameters which you might want to do if you are riding, for example, the 11 Pass challenge in Colorado.  When in constant BP update, the update process is done every few seconds as opposed to only when you start the bike in closed loop with constant BP update turned off.

For the DTT TCFI system in open loop or with constant barometric pressure update deactivated, the fuel delivered will not, generally speaking, decrease at higher altitudes but the air density will decrease resulting in a bike running rich which is fine in my book.  The safer thing to do is to run the system in closed loop when significant barometric pressure changes will be encountered.  And, even safer than that is to activate constant B pressure update.  I did cruise all of New Mexico from the Pecos, Texas border to north of Taos, New Mexico riding altitudes in excess of 10,000 feet in open loop and I only experienced a rich condition which helped to prevent premature detonation concerns.

Finally, how often do riders have their bikes, either stock EFI or carbed bikes, tuned on a dyno?  Once, twice maybe three times?  Each time you are in closed loop you are tuning the bike.  You can do that a couple of times a year, assuming you did not modify the engine, and be well ahead of the game and at all other times run open loop.  If open loop does not improve performance and closed loop does not degrade performance, run it in closed loop.  Running the bike in open loop assumes you have a well developed map.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

A quick way to check IAC status.

If you have activated Automatic IAC update in Basic Parameters, after you have a few days of riding on the system, you can look at the number in the Automatic IAC update box.  If that number is not where you want it, say 25-30, you might have an IAC out of adjustment.  Keep in mind that the ideal IAC position, 30 for most engines, is measured at operating temp of the engine, which for Twin Cam engines (prior to 2007) is 110C to 120C.  As you increase engine temperature beyond operating temperature, the IAC continues to drop. So, if the Automatic IAC update number is very low, check your logged data to see what the IAC number is at 110C; it might be that the low number you see in the automatic iac update was merely due to excess engine temperatures. 

The "long" way to do this is:  check the logged data and view IAC and Engine Temp in the graph.  Look for "30" IAC at 110C, for most engines.

Finally, keep in mind the maxim which is applicable to TPS volts, IAC position and throttle blade position:  If I ain't broken, don't fix it.

[speedglide]

Excellent! Keep 'em coming! 

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

AFR cells ........rpms ...... and bouncing AFR commands at idle

The AFR cells in the AFR 3d table work like this:  in the 500 RPM cell, in the 1000 RPM cell and the 1250 RPM cell at 0 Throttle Position, for example, the AFR number (AFR command) in each respective cell controls until 501 RPM, 1001 RPM and 1251 RPM respectively.  Assuming your bike is not idling above 1250 RPMs then do this:  you do not want a different AFR command number in the 1000 cell and the 1250 cell.  The reason is that if the bike is bouncing around in idle, say below 1000 RPMs and then above 1000, the AFR command will bounce around too if you have different AFR command numbers in the 1000 RPM cell and the 1250 cell.  If the AFR command in each of those cells is different, it makes it a bit harder for the BLM, if active, in those cells or the ECU in general to try and follow the bouncing AFR command "ball."   I believe the 1000 and 1250 cells at the 5% and 7.5% rows should also have the same AFR number.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Setting idle speed

The ET Based Idle RPM 2d table "sets" the idle rpm.  If you want it to idle faster, increase the respective numbers and decrease the numbers to decrease idle rpm.  Other factors can "overpower" this table such as a fast idle caused by an excessively opened throttle plate, just to name one.   If your actual idle rpm is significantly above or below the command in this table, it is usually indicative of the throttle plate or IAC being out of its proper position.  However, each engine combo will have its own peculiar traits, so a significant deviation might not be problematic.  The "maxim" may apply here too.

In general, larger engines need a bit faster idle speed than stock sized engines.  As idle speed decreases, so can oil pressure and flow to the engine.  An 1100 rpm command setting for a 114 ci bike or larger usually works well.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

When not to apply the BLM

Let's say you have a few miles on your current tuning efforts with BLM activated/closed loop.  When looking at each of the two BLM 3d tables, you notice that one cylinder has greater  BLM activity than the other cylinder.  If the BLM values are fairly close to 100, say 95 or 105, on one cylinder, then consider not applying the BLM for that cylinder and only applying it for the other cylinder with the greater BLM activity.  You can verify your decision to not apply the BLM for that cylinder by looking at the Log Program, front or rear AFR and the RPM fields.  Does the AFR (actual) appear close enough for you?  If so, don't BLM that cylinder.  Ride the bike after this and see if the cylinders are closer together in terms of smoothness/balance and performance.  The point of this is that you don't have to apply the BLM tables for each cylinder just because one cylinder needs it.

[speedglide]

More! More! LOL!
Riddle me this!!
Explain the purpose of the front cylinder trim table?

[uglyDougly]

  >Explain the purpose of the front cylinder trim table?<

   Mind if I take a crack at the answer?

  The Main Fuel Table gives injector time values for both front and rear cylinder injectors at every throttle position and RPM.

  The front cylinder trim table takes the value from the main table at any given TP and RPM and either adds injector time to that value or subtracts some, or leaves it the same. This strategy supports different torque characteristics of the second cylinder without having a separate, unrelated fuel table.

  Magneti-Marelli has used this sort of strategy almost forever (that's 'forever' in the digital fuel injection era) except they have chosen to use the rear cylinder as the trimmed cylinder.

  The 'zero' value is 100 or 100% of the main table. 95 is 5% less and 105 is 5% more than the main fuel table value.

  Doug

[speedglide]

Thanks Doug!  I understood it's function as you explained it. But shouldn't it tune itself, no matter what the original injector setting is?  What if I leveled it out, at 100 in all cells?  What then?  The trim table and auto tune cancel each other in my simple mind...
Jason

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Let me add this to what Doug stated.  This is my understanding:  The system has one Alpha N table to control two cylinders.  Yet, the two cylinders act differently because of location (heat maybe) and the fact they are not perfectly matched in compression, stroke length (possible minor differences), deck height and general performance --- you get the point.  Therefore, the system adds a second way to adjust the second cylinder:  front trim table.  The alpha n table gives the broad adjustment to the second cylinder as well as the first (rear) cylinder.  Since the differences between the two cylinders should not be large, a trim table is used instead of a second alpha n table.  In short, balance without an expensive and unnecessarily complicated second alpha n table.  Personally, I would like to have a second alpha n table and then I come to my senses......

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Thanks Doug!  I understood it's function as you explained it. But shouldn't it tune itself, no matter what the original injector setting is?  What if I leveled it out, at 100 in all cells?  What then?  The trim table and auto tune cancel each other in my simple mind...
Jason

Let's see what Doug has to add.  In the meantime, keep in mind you have one alpha n table, so tuning is affecting and effecting both cylinders the same unless there is a single cylinder trim table.  If I see the depth of your question correctly, then what you suggest would work if you had two alpha n tables:  one for each cylinder. 

I have repeatedly as of late, put 100 in each cell of the front cylinder trim table with no detriment and overall success in balance and smoothness.  At present, I am trying to work the AFR tables, front and rear, in order to determine which cells in the 0%, 5% and 7.5% TPS rows are not used during acceleration but only during deceleration in order to increase the AFR command to something in the neighborhood of 13.9 or even higher to achieve better gas mileage while not creating more heat.

The reason I put 100 in each cell of the trim table was to get rid of the accumulated junk that had been put in that table during out of sync rides and other similar accumulations of junk.  After 100 is put in each cell, the trim table starts over and then adds new numbers to a clean slate.  Therefore, the 100 numbers don't stay there.  Remember: a 0 or a 1 prevents tuning; a 100 number does not prevent tuning.     ...... thought I would clarify that.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Alpha N Table and Manual smoothing -- don't over do it

I have the most luck thinking of the Alpha N table as four separate tables.  One is idle.  Another is the unused cells. The other is the performance cells and the other is the deceleration cells.  Keep in mind that the idle cells do not only exist in the 0% TPS row, but also exist under the right conditions, in the 5% and 7% row too.  Also, keep in mind that unused cells exist not only to the left of the performance cells but to the right also.  For example, in all probability the 7000 rpm cell at 5% throttle position is probably not a deceleration or performance cell:  it is an unused cell (unless you shut down the throttle at 7000 rpms while under load which is fairly unlikely, more than once anyway).

Manual smoothing is beneficial.  But smoothing between these four "tables" within the alpha n table is over-doing it.  The best example is if you smooth the alpha n cell progressively in the 0% row (left to right), it will work, but a more aggressive plan will work better, say, above 1250 or maybe 1750 rpms since those are not acceleration, but are deceleration cells.  Linear and progressive smoothing outside of the performance cells is not aggressive enough to achieve/maintain performance AND achieve good fuel economy --- between shifts and when decelerating.  So, manually smooth within those four areas, but not between them.  Of course, determining which cells are within the four separate areas of that alpha n table is the key.  You should be able to determine that by the BLM readings following an aggressive move between the four theoretical tables:  If you miss the mark, the BLM will show significant activity which is PROBABLY an acceleration response.  But, it could be a deceleration response too.  Looking at the Log and correlating the actual throttle position should clear that up and define whether it is acceleration or deceleration.  Personally, I have not experienced a problem with a very high AFR reading/spike when I am decelerating even though the spikes are quite obvious when looking at the LOG data.  I think it has something to do with cylinder pressure.  Finally, I suspect that if I was using the bike on very long deceleration runs, maybe down a mountain, I would richen the deceleration mixture a bit.  But there are not many hills around here unless you find an overpass..........  .

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Marelli and Delphi TP Sensors

The Marelli throttle position sensor has a different transfer rate than the Delphi TP sensor.  So, they are not electrically interchangeable unless the transfer rate is adjusted which is done for you by Schroeder in the SnS VFI basic parameters since the SnS TB uses a Marelli TP sensor. 

[Airglider]

STB,

Keep em coming! I am also following this thread and learning from your experience.

I currently have a '04 Ultra w/ 95, 26G's and 9.5 ccr. I am only getting 35 mpg. I will soon go to the Woods 6G and shave heads to get 10:1 ccr. I am hopeful to be able to get better mileage when I start over with the base map and follow your tips.

One question I have is how to set the ideal timing tables. Do you have any tips here?

Thanks again for your insught.

AG

[uglyDougly]

  The last TCFI that I did was a TCFI III. MY other laptop is at home and it has the TCFI III software on it.
  Since you asked about the Front Cylinder trim table, if the numbers are all 100 it uses exactly the same injector time for both cylinders.
  But, on a 2-cyl. motorcycle the rear is never the same as the front (or vice versa) unless the inlets are separate and the exhausts are separate, then the only difference would be operating temperature. (with a little Correolis effect thrown in)

  Even the M-M bikes had the exhausts linked, so the previously described situation never came from the MoCo.
  Some of the OEM Evo cals didn't have rear trim maps but there were some of the non-stock Evo maps that did have trim maps.

  Am I rambling yet?

  The last TCFI previous to the III was in '05 while at Kuryakyn. I think that was a IID but not sure.
  Anyway, the auto-tune for the front cyl. was accomplished differently than the rear (Main fuel table.)  You turn off the auto-tune and save data to a data file instead. Then you call that data file up and ask the software to apply it to the front trim table.
  The only problem with that was that the software applied some cyl-to-cyl fuel stealing algorithm on top of the AFR corrections and some of the trim values could get a little wierd.
  Because of that, some of the Front Cylinder Trim tables get kinda wonky.
  The TCFI III does the auto-AFR adjust much better because is treats both cylinder tables as main fuel maps and the adjustments are more straight forward.

  I hope this helps because I'm not about to load the TCFI IID software. My laptops have so many tuning programs that they get bogged down.

  Please let me know if I'm obscuring the whole deal by counting on my memory. Then I'll just shut up.

  Doug

 

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Keep helping out Doug.  Always good to see your posts on this subject.  To help you remember:  the IId is the dual sensor ... that is what the "d" stands for "dual".  It "tunes" both cylinders at the same time without any "plug and unplug hassle."  The "II" had a single sensor, in essence, with a "run it on the back cylinder, unplug the cable and run it on the front cylinder" scenario.  PITA.  The DTT TCFI III is the unit I just tuned on the 124 rocket:  took three months of part time tuning with starting being the major problem.  But, three months was not that long considering no one could tune it for the prior three years.  Wish you were not so far north or Bob so far west.......... .

AG:

Timing is a risky proposition to do over the internet due to the many factors including load, ambient temp., humidity, as well as engine configuration since you can punch a hole in a piston, especially a hard hypereutectic piston like the KB, in a real hurry.  A lot of detonation is silent:  you have to pull the plugs and look for metal transfer.  A fellow on this site gave me a chart about timing a few years ago:  Mr. Sanderfer, I believe.  I use it as a guide.  Most of the considerations in that chart related to one thing:  flame travel.  What increases and what decreases the need for flame travel?  For example, properly place dual spark plugs reduce flame travel need (distance reduced) and therefore reduce the need for significant ignition advance.  You get the point. Compression, bore size, weight, quality of fuel (corn) on and on are also factors.  For example, generally speaking a 4.25" bore has more distance for the flame to travel than a smaller bore, therefore more advance is required.  Combustion chamber design is a big factor too.   

Kevin Turner of KT Cycles told me:  advance it until it pings and then back it down ...... he was smiling 'cause he knew I would not do that, nor would he, I suspect.  But, he made the point:  there is no formula, it is a bit of trial and error conservatively applied to a bike that is going to experience a wide range of environments, loads and uses.  For me, if I increase the power a bit and reduce the heat in the engine, I am on the right track with ignition advance.  However, my experience with adjusting ignition advance is limited to larger bore street engines with forged pistons and SnS heads.  Those engines, ultimately, are different animals especially in terms of toleration of excessive ignition advance.  Hope that sheds some light even if it is not very helpful.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Thanks Doug!  I understood it's function as you explained it. But shouldn't it tune itself, no matter what the original injector setting is?  What if I leveled it out, at 100 in all cells?  What then?  The trim table and auto tune cancel each other in my simple mind...
Jason

I think I see what you mean now.  Here is the explanation:  putting 100 in the trim table cells "normalizes" them, i.e., zeros them out.  Tuning continues with 100 in the cells and it is a fresh tune without all the previous "junk" remaining in the front trim table.  So, they don't cancel out since 100 allows tuning while a 0 or a 1 in the cell prevents tuning ..... remember?

I modified my earlier post to add this clarification which your posts suggested was needed.

[speedglide]

Ok, I'll have to read all this again and see if it will sink in! LOL!
Here is another thought... if I clear the trim table, which is intended to address cross feed, could I possibly overdrive one injector if the front trim is not there to compensate for the cross feed?


NOW- about timing.. That is a subject that I still don't have a good tuning handle on.  I have a timing map provided by HQ for my 98" build.  It's on the conservative side.   I have yet to find a reliable method to tune the timing. 
As you mentioned, I could advance it until it pings, then pull 3-4 degrees.(not the best)  Or I could advance it, and do trial runs and check my data log, comparing time vs mph, contuning advancements until I see the speed decrease.  Or obviously I could put it on a dyno, but I don't have anyone in the area I trust.
Any other suggestions?

[uglyDougly]

  Thanks for getting my head straight STB.
  sg, I don't understand the use of the term 'overdrive'??

  With 100 in the trim tables the injector time will be the same for both injectors. If you need 15% more fuel on the front cylinder the whole trim map can be bumped to 115.
  The 2nd cylinder trim isn't only for inlet cross-feed because the Ducatis have separate inlets, it's that the rear has a different torque curve (therefore a different fuel table requirement) because of the odd-firing order and the interconnection of the exhaust pipes.

   About the ignition timing.

  That is precisely why I refer to the 'auto-tuning' systems as auto-AFR-adjusting systems.
  Timing is a big part of tuning and it isn't covered by the so-called 'auto-tuning' systems. (S&S has that now, but it is the 'advance to detonation and retard a few' system.)

  I can't shed any light on ignition tuning without a dyno, because I've spoiled myself by having one. Checking your torque is an imprtant part of ignition timing.

  I'll butt out of this thread after one more comment; The phenomenon that we're seeing here, particularly with STB, is that some of the people who are attracted to the 'auto-tuning' theme, are the ones who have, eventually, had to learned how to use them.

  Once you've reached that level, I hope you realize that you have taught yourself how to tune fuel injection systems. After that, you can tune any system because you now have the understanding of what it takes; data.

  One of the coolest things about the DTT product line is that they offer the ability to get that data.
  Now that you know how to use their products to see the AFR and associate it with an RPM and TP, you can apply that to any tuning system.

   Doug

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Doug,

Chime in when you please.  We can always benefit from your varied and deep experience.   I am just an afficianado whom has made nearly every mistake you can make and I am not an expert.

There was another fellow on this site whom really knew the DTT TCFI III on down to the II.  He bailed out at some point; too bad 'cause he really knew it and answered a lot of questions I had in addition to those answered by Doug over the years.

If anyone knows much about the 2d tables, chime in 'cause they are mystery to me, for the most part.  I know a few things about them, such as the Start Adder Table interaction with the IAC, the Cranking Fuel Table and the Priming Fuel Table.   Same goes for Asynchronis Gain adjustment and a few others that are somewhat mysterious.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Overdriving, underdriving, driving ........ injectors.

In parameters, you insert the crankshaft horsepower, not rear wheel horsepower.  And, you insert your injector flow rate in grams per second.  (I asked Chris S. if the injector flow rate was measured at 3 bar or HD fuel pressure.  He said it did not matter.  For example, a 6.1gps injector flowed at HD fuel pressure is equivilant to 5.3gps flowed at 3 bar ----- if I can multiply correctly.  I think it matters).  In any event, if you tell the program that the engine is making 130HP at the specified RPM in parameters AND tell the program that the injectors are 5.0gps, then it seems "logical" to me that the injectors will work really hard to achieve 130HP.  If in fact your injectors are 5.3gps injectors, then I assume the injector timing pulses and duration pulses of the injectors will be as if the injectors are 5.0gps which (it seems to me) over-drive the 5.3gps injectors (since if you put in parameters that the injectors are 5.3gps, then the timing and duration injector pulses would be lower).  Whether any of this matters, I don't know.  I am not interested in the semantics, just the operation.  It was just an experiment I ran at one time to see what would happen.  I thought the engine ran a bit better "cheating" the program.  But, it might have just been a rich condition which would tend to smooth the engine a bit.  I don't know since I did not check the BLM activity.  Whatever the difference was, it was not a great difference and I don't cheat the program as a rule.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Correlating posts 1 and 18 ....... Alpha N with AFR


So, you have read and deciphered as well as implement posts 1 AND 18 and you are now ready to run down the road, but it ain't over yet.  Now, to complete that process one needs to consider this:  if you change the alpha n numbers in deceleration cells AND the BLM is active and trying to compensate it is because your AFR number in that cell is not what you want it to be.  Here is how it works:   if you put an alpha n number in a deceleration cell, and if the AFR command number in that cell is not in "harmony" with that Alpha N number, the BLM will try to adjust the Alpha N number to match the AFR Command; that is what I mean by "harmony."  So, what to do? 

Instead of changing the Alpha N numbers in deceleration cells, you can just put the desired AFR command in the deceleration cells of the afr table, such as 14.0.   The BLM will try to adjust the Alpha N to reach 14.0 AFR unless you exceed the adjustment range (79 to 125 more or less) of the BLM.  However, for those deceleration cells not accessed by the BLM, you need to do the manual smoothing mentioned in post 18. 

I wrote posts 1 and 18 to emphasize smoothing, the four theoretical table concept in regard the Alpha N table and the general concept of having to determine which are performance/acceleration and which are deceleration cells since those determinations should precede just trying to stick AFR command numbers in what you suspect are performance or deceleration cells without giving any thought to it.  In other words, my process is a more "performance oriented" methodology INCLUDING fuel mileage considerations.  If you figure out which are unused cells, performance cells, deceleration cells and idle cells, plugging in AFR command numbers becomes an easy exercise and will prevent, to a large degree, causing one big mess of your AFR table.  After you do all this, run your bike, BLM it and after you are satisfied with the BLM, go to the Alpha N table and manually smooth the four theoretical alpha n tables.  Ride it again.  If it is rough in a few spots, go back in those few spots to the prior number or go the other direction with a number in that cell since it could be exhaust reversion or exhaust over-scavenging or intake fuel robbing or just an inexplicable anomoly peculiar to your set-up or build.  More importantly, this process will help you understand what is going on and probably lead to Nirvana ................ or Utopia or a DTT honeymoon. 

Hopefully this post brings together the AFR and Alpha N tuning process for those whom are interested.  The way I described to do it is not the only way to do it.  It is the way I do it and nothing more.  For those wanting to take the short cut, well, take it to someone like Doug.  And if he is too far away, then plug in AFR numbers that look fairly good and let the BLM do the rest; it will be ride-able in all probability.  Good luck.

[Airglider]

STB,

What happened? You were going so well teaching us the little tricks you have learned. Logging in was like setting up the works, the tourniquet, the pin prick, then the flood of knowledge would invade our brains. It's been a week since you posted. I'M JONESING!!!

More, Please send More!

Thanks,

AG

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

STB,

What happened? You were going so well teaching us the little tricks you have learned. Logging in was like setting up the works, the tourniquet, the pin prick, then the flood of knowledge would invade our brains. It's been a week since you posted. I'M JONESING!!!

More, Please send More!

Thanks,

AG

Don't know much more!   This is a fine tuning thread and not a basic tuning or "fix it" thread.  Basic tuning would take a few more posts, but it is more than my tired fingers can handle 'cause you have to start with "put a good floor fan blowin' on the motor" and go from there.  I guess I wanted to write all this for me and others to have a basic reference guide or a suppository for the CRAFT moments -- I mean "repository".

[Airglider]

Just sent my heads out to Bean this morning. I am going with a Woods 6G at 10:1 in my 95 with flattops.

Would I be better off starting with the generic base map or altering the one I generated with the Andrews 26G at 9.5:1?

TIA

AG

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Just sent my heads out to Bean this morning. I am going with a Woods 6G at 10:1 in my 95 with flattops.

Would I be better off starting with the generic base map or altering the one I generated with the Andrews 26G at 9.5:1?

TIA

AG

Compare the two alpha n number charts and "get a feel" for which one looks better.   This assumes you have tuned the map you choose to a degree that the BLM activity is minimal.  I suspect the tuned map with the Andrews would work better as a base map than the generic map assuming the Andrews map was developed from the base map.  The DTT TCFI has an effective tuning range of 20%, beyond that the unit will not tune very well by itself without a lot of hands-on manipulation.  I suspect that the most significant change in the map you will see is that the fuel needs move up the RPM scale since the 26 is a thumper cam.  Ask Bean if he suspects you will see a HP increase over your current build of more than 20%, if so, you have a bit more work to do than just BLMing it two or three times.  If you really want to get it right and tight, my last post integrates the main points of fine tuning and hopefully that will help you.

Personally, I find it fun to mickey with the TCFI, but a lot of people don't find it fun.  While I prefer to ride than wash or tune my bike, it is fun for me to go for a long hard putt and at the end of the putt, look at the logged data and make changes.  However, you can degenerate the map when you start making manual changes and that was the reason for my last tuning post.

One final matter involving the alpha n table.  On the IId, I find that the 1500 rpm cell at 2.5% throttle position just will not tune in that the longer you tune that cell by BLMing it, the worse it gets.  I notice a hesitation in the engine just off idle.  So, I find the best alpha n number for that cell and then put a "1" in the BLM cell at that rpm and throttle position:  it will no longer tune but will log data.  I don't know why this is ........... but enough people have experienced it that I believe it is a programming glitch and not due to build configurations of the engine/exhaust.  In addition to feel of the engine, you will notice this (if it is a problem) by looking at the alpha N number in that cell --- (2.5% tps at 1500 rpm)  if it is lower than the number above it (0 throttle position row at 1500 rpms) and assuming the number above it is a good number ( 0 tps at 1500), then you too have "the problem."  You can put a 2 point higher number (than that found in the cell above it - 0% at 1500) in the 2.5% row at 1500 rpms and see if it smooths out.  If so, then go up two more points, run it and then look at your logged data and check out the afr.  If the afr is good, stick with the good number and put a 1 in that cell in the BLM after you find the right alpha n number.  For example:  22 in 0% tps at 1500, but the 2.5% tps at 1500 shows 18. So, put in 24 in 2.5% at 1500 and then 26, until you get a smooth transition off of idle.  Then put a "1" in that cell in the BLM tables -- since there are two BLM tables even though I speak as if there is only one.

The advantage of the TCFI is that you get tuning information at all rpm levels and all throttle position levels as opposed to just tuning information at wide open throttle on a dyno if that is how the dyno tuner chooses to tune it.  A good tuner using a dyno can simulate different loads, rpm, speeds (gear chosen) and tune the heck out of it.  And that would take a lot of work.  You can do a lot of the same things (although you won't be able to measure HP or torque calculations) with the TCFI.  The point of this is to show you how much tuning you or the BLM has to do which takes time:  you have to hit all load conditions and all rpms to tune the whole map.  I find that putting the Palm pilot on the bike and doing spot checks is a valuable tool for small problematic areas.  For example, it diagnosed the high afr spikes I was seeing in logged data which the Palm Pilot told me was due to deceleration events and not something else.

Good luck.

[Don D]

After I get uncovered here I am going to get my 07 dialed in
I have had the WEGO IId for a few years and one and the only remaining problem is when I stop for gas, warm motor, and restart the idle hangs at 1500 until I ride off and come to a full stop and allow it to normalize. This can be very annoying. I have had some complex schemes to work all the warm-up tables but I would really like to nip this easily and move on or I will go back to the Delphi.
Any help appreciated. TIA

[Airglider]

STB,

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. Are you using the 14.0 afr across the board in the 0 row from 2000 or so up? I am happy with my map except for the 35 mpg. I have locked the values in that range in the Alpha N. Maybe this is where my mpg problem lies. I am undergoing upgrades currently and will take your suggestion and start with my current map.

Would you share your map and build specs for educational purposes?

Like you, I enjoy tinkering with the mappings. After making changes and riding to work and home (approx 50 miles), I take the laptop out to the garage and download the new data. Gives me something to think about as I drift off to sleep.

Thanks again,

AG

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

STB,

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge. Are you using the 14.0 afr across the board in the 0 row from 2000 or so up? I am happy with my map except for the 35 mpg. I have locked the values in that range in the Alpha N. Maybe this is where my mpg problem lies. I am undergoing upgrades currently and will take your suggestion and start with my current map.

Would you share your map and build specs for educational purposes?

Like you, I enjoy tinkering with the mappings. After making changes and riding to work and home (approx 50 miles), I take the laptop out to the garage and download the new data. Gives me something to think about as I drift off to sleep.

Thanks again,

AG

I don't remember what my afr commands are in the deceleration cells since I deactivate the afr commands in BLM by inserting a "1" and used alpha n numbers to get it where I wanted it which was by sound and feel.  I recognize that an alpha n number at, for example, 3000 rpms in the 0% row are deceleration cells.  So, I put a number about 5 points lower than the idle alpha n number and go for a putt listening for deceleration popping and a feeling like it is not slowing down quickly enough (too rich, maybe).  I don't know what the AFR number might be but when I look at the log, I might initially see a spike to 17 AFR which does not worry me since I don't have to worry about detonation when decelerating and the afr command is not controlling the alpha n number since I deactive BLM as stated above, in those cells.  I also watch for heat build up.  After doing all that, I end up with a alpha n number which works on my bike and my not work on yours due to exhaust reversion or over scavenging issues.  Again, if I were riding in the mountains with long down hills using engine breaking, I would run the deceleration cells richer.

I can provide my map to you, but trust me, it will do you no good since my heads, compression, cams, advance timing, exhaust, intake etc. are so different than most other builds, not to mention my altitude (3 feet below sea level, effective).  Let me give you one example:  I can run a 29 alpha n in the idle cells.  I bet your idle cell alpha n numbers are not very close to that number.  At present, I am running 26 in the idle cells and I intend to reduce those numbers to see how low I can go and get a good hot soak start when it is 100 degress F this summer.  I bet I cannot go much below 24............. .  Again, I bet your alpha n idle cell numbers might be around 19 . ........... just guessing.  What are they?

[Airglider]

STB,

My "0" cells are:

RPM     500,   750,   1000,   1250,   1500,   1750,   2000,   2250 and up

Alpha N  34,    32,    21.5,    18.0,    15.5,   16.0,    15.0,    13.5 and up

I am running "1" in cells 1750 and up. I had gotten the decel popping under control with these values. I expect I will be massaging the values when my build comes back together. These values are with the 26G at 95".

Any thoughts?

AG

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

STB,

My "0" cells are:

RPM     500,   750,   1000,   1250,   1500,   1750,   2000,   2250 and up

Alpha N  34,    32,    21.5,    18.0,    15.5,   16.0,    15.0,    13.5 and up

I am running "1" in cells 1750 and up. I had gotten the decel popping under control with these values. I expect I will be massaging the values when my build comes back together. These values are with the 26G at 95".

Any thoughts?

AG

First, I wonder why your 1500 value is lower than your 1750 value.  It does not mean anything is wrong, it just means I would look at the reason for that.  My idea is that the 1750 alpha n number should be lower than the 1500 rpm number, but it is hard to tell over the internet.  Look at my post about downward progression in ROWS as rpms increase (and upward progression in COLUMNS as throttle position increases) which are general rules and not written in stone.  What do you see?

Secondly, if your bike does not idle above 1500, then why not put a "1" in the 1500 cell if you have found a good alpha n number to put in there?  Might do that later after you get a good alpha n number in that cell........ .

Now you see why my map won't do you much good since I run 29 or 26 in my idle cells.  Your average number is 20 since you have different numbers in each idle cell:  I assume your bike idles while bouncing below 1000 and above 1000 observed in real time data in the Log program.  Let me know if it idles above 1000 AND below 1000 under any normal condition even if only briefly AFTER the first five seconds or so AFTER the engine is started.  I assume your bike does not idle above 1250 rpms when in stable idle condition as opposed to immediately after a start-up.  What rpm is your idle set at in the 2d table at various temps?

1.  Check out reply #10 and tell me what you think about your alpha n numbers at 1000 and 1250. The "answer" is in reply 10 if your bike idles above and below 1000 rpms in a stable idle condition.   In reply 10, I mention AFR numbers, but keep in mind that you can tune using the alpha n numbers which ultimately, are the same thing, front cylinder trimming excepted. 
2.  Your 500 and 750 cells are no problem since that is above idle rpm for a twin cam.  You can whittle those down and see if it affects starting.  If it does not, whittle them down to 22 each.  It is merely a manual smoothing exercise in, largely but not entirely, unused cells.  You want to test this on a hot soak starting.   After you look at reply #10, we will look at 1500 and above.
3.  We need to look at more than the 0% row for idle control:  all the way up to 7.5% throttle position at idle rpms.  We can do that after we finish the 0% row.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

AG,

Please consider moving your questions to a separate thread you create in the AFR Zone since I think that I would like to keep this thread as a reference thread and not a "fix it" thread.  Moreover, others (who are "real" mechanics and tuners) might join in, too.

[speedglide]

Seabrook, Doug, or anyone with info....
How would you suggest balancing out head temps at cruise?  I'm in the fine tuning process, but can't get the cylinders balanced out temp wise.. Of course, it's still pretty cold here in MI, and I think to be fair, I should wait until the temps are above 45 to really get a good reliable head temp at cruise.  My front temp may come up a bit. My inital thought is I may need to fine tune the cylinders by going open loop and manually adjusting the front trim tables..
Jason

[tarheelrdr]

I too would like some information on how to get the frt/rear cyl. head temps closer together, I have an '04 ultra with a 113" Headquarter's build-10.5/1 comp. D&D fatcat/performance baffle, 51 HPI t/b w/marren 5.04 gps injectors. My rear cyl. is a consistant 75-80 degrees hotter. yesterday outside temps @ 75, my frt was 280 and rear-355. my rear cyl. off-set is a "0". Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Tim

[Sonny S.]

I too would like some information on how to get the frt/rear cyl. head temps closer together, I have an '04 ultra with a 113" Headquarter's build-10.5/1 comp. D&D fatcat/performance baffle, 51 HPI t/b w/marren 5.04 gps injectors. My rear cyl. is a consistant 75-80 degrees hotter. yesterday outside temps @ 75, my frt was 280 and rear-355. my rear cyl. off-set is a "0". Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Tim

bump

[speedglide]

Tarheelrdr-
What speed are you riding to get those temps? And exactly were are you measuring? Man, they vary 50 degrees or so depending on where you put that laser pointer...
Just for consistency, I have been taking my temps on the machined surface between my spark plug and compression releases.
I'm usually 40 degrees different at hwy speeds, 75-80mph.  At speeds under 50, my heads are usually within 10-20 degrees of each other.  I'm still in the early tuning stages. 

[Sonny S.]

Anyone measuring temps here in the yellow circle ?

[tarheelrdr]

Tarheelrdr-
What speed are you riding to get those temps? And exactly were are you measuring? Man, they vary 50 degrees or so depending on where you put that laser pointer...
Just for consistency, I have been taking my temps on the machined surface between my spark plug and compression releases.
I'm usually 40 degrees different at hwy speeds, 75-80mph.  At speeds under 50, my heads are usually within 10-20 degrees of each other.  I'm still in the early tuning stages. 

averaging 60 mph on rural country roads and I take  the reading just below the base of the sparkpllug, I put the laser on the sparkplug base and the instructions said the reading is about a 1/2 inch below.

I tried  -3 degrees rear cyl. offset yesterday on a 100 mile ride and the temps were still about 75* hotter on rear. 285 frt/350 rear.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
I took off the lowers a couple of days ago and the temps did come down 20*. But I prefer to have them on.

Thanks

Tim

[speedglide]

I did have the vinyl engine guard lowers on, and when I took them off, my rear cylinder dropped 40-50 degrees! So I guss I won't be running them unless it's below 45 degrees on mine.  I'm not sure what to tell you on the temps, mine are pretty close at 60mph, maybe 20 degrees different, and they are around 280 front, 300 maybe 310 rear...
What is your timing at 2500, 2750, 3000? What is your AFR set at in the same rpms, at say 10% throttle?
Jason

[speedglide]

Anyone measuring temps here in the yellow circle ?

No, looks like the yellow circles are targeting just above the exhaust valves?

[tarheelrdr]

I did have the vinyl engine guard lowers on, and when I took them off, my rear cylinder dropped 40-50 degrees! So I guss I won't be running them unless it's below 45 degrees on mine.  I'm not sure what to tell you on the temps, mine are pretty close at 60mph, maybe 20 degrees different, and they are around 280 front, 300 maybe 310 rear...
What is your timing at 2500, 2750, 3000? What is your AFR set at in the same rpms, at say 10% throttle?
Jason

At 16 map---2500-33.6/2750-35.4/3000-37.0
at  18 MAP---2500-25.7/2750-27.6/3000-34.8
AFR IS   14.1 at 2500-3000
Are you running any rear cyl. offset at all or still at -0-?
since it's getting hotter I might try pulling the lowers off again. outside temps are in the upper 80's now in NC.
WHAT are some other reasons why there would be so much timing difference between cyl.s'. This was my first attempt at doing a cam/topend build. so I might have done something wrong in the beginning.

[speedglide]

My timing was actually a few degrees higher than yours, but I have not ridden in 80 degree temps yet. My AFRs were set at 14.2.  I'm currently working new tables to lower my timing down to the mid 30's and 14 flat AFRs.  I think my current settings will be too high for 80+ degree days. I currently have my rear offset at 0 degrees. My plan, once I get the rear cylinder close to the optimal operating temp,( which is supposed to be 300 deg, yet Kevin did state on their forum that his rear cylinder will creep up to 330-340 on long hwy runs!!!) is to turn off the auto tune and start manually adjusting the fuel map for the front cylinder to bring it up to proper temp, then watch the spark plugs.  Kevin stated that if the cylinder temps were close, the plugs looked similar, and you are getting 40+mpg, you are good to go.

[tarheelrdr]

My timing was actually a few degrees higher than yours, but I have not ridden in 80 degree temps yet. My AFRs were set at 14.2.  I'm currently working new tables to lower my timing down to the mid 30's and 14 flat AFRs.  I think my current settings will be too high for 80+ degree days. I currently have my rear offset at 0 degrees. My plan, once I get the rear cylinder close to the optimal operating temp,( which is supposed to be 300 deg, yet Kevin did state on their forum that his rear cylinder will creep up to 330-340 on long hwy runs!!!) is to turn off the auto tune and start manually adjusting the fuel map for the front cylinder to bring it up to proper temp, then watch the spark plugs.  Kevin stated that if the cylinder temps were close, the plugs looked similar, and you are getting 40+mpg, you are good to go.
[/quote

Thanks for the quick reply, just what would happen if I can't get the temps any closer. What would happen to the engine in the long haul. It's been like this for about 2 years now, I just bought an i/r temp guage and holy s**t doug @ HQ tells me that some magor damage might happen. What will happen?

thanks

Tim

[speedglide]

I wouldn't be as worried about the temp cylinder seperation as much as I would high temps.  As with any overheated motor, piston and cylinder wall damage would result.  And I would not worry too much about your currrent temps, 350 isn't extreme. As I stated earlier, Kevin stated his rear cylinder would creep up to 330-340 on extended hwy runs. I bet you drop a good 30 by removing your lowers. You may notice a bigger impact from minor changes in timing and AFRs with the lowers off.   If you can get down to low 300's on the rear with timing changes, I would turn your auto tune off and start manually adjusting your front fuel cells to bring the front cylinder up!

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

STB,

My "0" cells are:

RPM     500,   750,   1000,   1250,   1500,   1750,   2000,   2250 and up

Alpha N  34,    32,    21.5,    18.0,    15.5,   16.0,    15.0,    13.5 and up

I am running "1" in cells 1750 and up. I had gotten the decel popping under control with these values. I expect I will be massaging the values when my build comes back together. These values are with the 26G at 95".

Any thoughts?

AG

You should have that new build broken in by now.  If so, PM me if you need any help.  We can post any responses or fixes as we discover them.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

For those interested, I posted my DTT TCFI IId map in a separate thread on this topic board.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

I visited with Chris Schroeder yesterday. I asked him a couple of questions about the IId system and fine tuning.  He provided a tip or two.

1.  When I told him about significantly leaning the 0% row above 2000 rpms to a very high AFR such as 15 to 1 or higher, he said in fact you could shut the fuel off entirely in the deceleration circuit.  That is what he said.  He added that the idle RPMs would have to be richened up a bit to keep the engine from stalling if you ended up at idle.  I have not tried this.

2.  He mentioned that the data stored in the BLM does not have to be applied to the Alpha N unless you are near the high or low BLM limits, e.g., 80 or 115, more or less.  I apply them since I go to open loop once I have a good tune. Chris does not go to open loop so applying the BLM is not as imperative to him.

3.  He also mentioned that the system update program, version 3.3.3, is a major improvement to the III ECU in the idle circuit tuning area.  He really touted that new operating system which is for the III ECU and not the IId.  He is sending a III system to me next week.  I will evaluate the 3.3.3 operating system, so we shall see how it goes.

4.  Lastly, I wanted to know if the front trim table increased or decreased fuel at, say, 95 and would 105 increase or decrease front cylinder fuel supply.  95 is 95% of the Alpha N number for the front cylinder, so it decreases the fuel (leans it) and 105 increases the fuel above the alpha n number and richens the front cylinder by 5% above the alpha n number.

[-SeabrookTrickBagger]

Palm Pilot and Visor tuning

The ability to use a device like the Palm Pilot is a valuable tuning tool.  Approximately 3 data streams can be displayed at the same time with the ability to choose which data streams will be displayed.  If you have a tachometer on your bike, you have a fourth display and the speedometer is a fifth display.  Mount the Palm Pilot and go for a ride.

You can isolate the areas of concern with this device.  For example, you may notice a hesitation off of idle.  Use the Palm Pilot to isolate the problem possibly by displaying Throttle Position, AFR Sensor Front and AFR Sensor Rear.  When you encounter the problem, hold the throttle in the problem area and view the Palm Pilot data.  You might see a wild AFR reading on one or both cylinders, the TPS read will tell you which cell to alter coupled with a tachometer read.  Then make your adjustments to the AFR table or the Alpha N table and/or front cylinder trim table.

Using a Palm Pilot for diagnostics and fine tuning will speed up the fine tuning process.

BTW, if you have a GPS unit, correlate the speed on your GPS with your speedometer.  If the speedometer is inaccurate, make manual adjustments to the VSS in Parameters by increasing or decreasing that number as required to get your speedometer at a very accurate number.  The speedometer is one of the data streams used by the EFI ECU to determine the fuel needs of the engine.