Andrews tensioner conversion or gear drive

[WVULTRA]

Got the tensioners out of the '07 Ultra, and each tensioner pad has molded markings on each side just below the chain wear area.  One side has INA and the other has <PA46>.

[Arrowsmit]

FWIW, I had my ('02 conversion) tensioners out after 10K mi & I could see where the chains rode on em but couldn't even catch a thumbnail on the marks. JMHO but I really believe HD has hit a home run w/this set-up.

VicW..

[nc-renegade]

I've installed both and have run both. Roller chain set up is the way to go for a mild build. Breeze to install, quiet, and dependable.
However, if I were building a big inch, super high lift cam motor, I'd go gears, and welded crank of course.

Sonny

My crank is .0008", plugged and welded.  My gear drive backlash is set properly but always had noise, especially when hot.  I am in the process of going to 107" with a .660" lift and I am converting to the new style tensioners.  I just did a friends with .525 and it is whisper quiet.

I would not consider gears unless I was going larger than .670" and that is only due to them hitting each other otherwise.

Edit:  One other item, the new system is as accurate as gears, whereas the older "silent chain" caused slop in the cam timing...up to 4 degrees.

[nc-renegade]

Cost is minimal, less than 200 for parts. Both the other options are quite a bit more coin.

I think one thing to consider is if you plan to change cams.  If that was my goal, I would do the conversion.  Much easier for DIY and you gain the higher flowing oil pump.  Going through one of the discount internet stores, it is not that much.

[Ultrashovel]

What's wrong with staying with the old set-up. Change out every 40-50 tho miles and your good to go. I changed out 2 sets w/45,000 miles and neither were in bad shape.  With the chain now self polished they should be good until 100,000. Cost is minimal, less than 200 for parts. Both the other options are quite a bit more coin.

I agree. I like stock cams with my sidecar. It has the low bottom end torque that I need. The Hyrdaulic modification looks the best to me but you have to change cams to do it. I guess you can order stock timing but short of that, I'll just check mine every now and then and put in new parts as needed. I've got three sets of new cams and chains that people basically gave me when they went to gear drives so all I would need is gaskets, bearings and tensioners. I have all of the JIMS tools to do bearing work.

[IBARider]

Tensioner wear is hit or miss, I haven't been able to find a trend.

I've had the same observations.

I was led to believe there was a trend and that was... high mileage guys tend to last longer, whereas bar hoppers wore quicker.  Something to do with residual lube on them at start ups.

[IBARider]

Oh forgot to add.  I'm a high miler.  I changed those tensioners every 60,000 miles and there was 50% left left on them at that mileage....

[Herko]

"...I guess you can order stock timing..."

The Andrews 12N grind is virtually stock cam specs. No retuning needed.

[Ultrashovel]

"...I guess you can order stock timing..."

The Andrews 12N grind is virtually stock cam specs. No retuning needed.

Yes, that would be my choice. If and when I make a change, I'll just get the parts from the fellow who packages them here (forgot his mane) and install the later hydraulic tensioner kit. With the 12N's I can still pull my sidecar.

My engine hardly vibrates at all. I think the crank is still pretty good. I'll check it the next time I look at the tensioners.

[Jeffd]

The 21's actually have better low end than the stock cams.

[Hawg Holler]

The 21's actually have better low end than the stock cams.

I've heard some people say the Andrews 21s are the cams that Harley would use if it weren't for the EPA. If you're pulling a sidecar, the 21s are going to give you a lot better performance than stock due to their low end torque improvements. If you're going to change out cams anyway, I'd recommend them. I've had them in my Road King for 26,000 miles and I've been very satisfied, esp. when I'm running two-up with luggage. The power they develop for pulling hills is really impressive.

[nc-renegade]

I thought gears were a requirement for some high lift applications.

I just put in TR-662 cams with .660" lift.  I converted from gears to the new style tensioners/camplate/oil pump setup.  Looking at these cams, I don't think cam makers can go any higher lift without going to gear drive....but .660" is a lot!