Andrews tensioner conversion or gear drive

[Dynawhite]

OK, I'm soliciting opinions, or facts if you have them, on upgrading '03 TC 88 tensioners to the HD roller tensioners using Andrews kit or gear drive cams. Are the new nylon tensioners going to last a long, long time vs biting the bullet and going with gears for the long haul. I sent a PM to Herko, who seems to have a good deal of info on the conversion and hope others can add to it.

[TXChop]

For me it depends on crank runout. Less than .003 than gear drive is nice. More than .003 the hydra setup works well....Wayyyy more than .003 new crank.

[PoorUB]

OK, I'm soliciting opinions, or facts if you have them, on upgrading '03 TC 88 tensioners to the HD roller tensioners using Andrews kit or gear drive cams. Are the new nylon tensioners going to last a long, long time vs biting the bullet and going with gears for the long haul. I sent a PM to Herko, who seems to have a good deal of info on the conversion and hope others can add to it.

Going with gear drive is no guarentee for the long haul either! I have done quite a bit of research on this and believe the updated tensioners are the way to go.
Ask around and see how many problems you can find on the '07 and newer bikes, them ask around about gear drive failures, for what ever reason. You will find more riders have had problems with few thousand gear drives installed, compared to the million Twin Cams HD has put out with the new tensioners.

[Sonny S.]

I've installed both and have run both. Roller chain set up is the way to go for a mild build. Breeze to install, quiet, and dependable.
However, if I were building a big inch, super high lift cam motor, I'd go gears, and welded crank of course.

Sonny

[Billy]

What Sonny said! 

[WozzA]

  as previously stated... if your crank run out is 3 thou or more go with the chain drive...
fortuantly mine came in at 1.5 thou of a inch ...   and I couldnt be happier with the GEAR DRIVE   

[RoadKingTrooper]

What Sonny S said
Scot

[bfancy]

Is runout checked with the cam plate on like the picture in post #6 by Wozza? I recently installed the roller chain conversion kit on my '05 Ultra and I checked the pinion shaft runout with the cam plate and oil pump removed; it was .003". It would most likely have been less with the cam plate not removed. Is that a correct assumption?

[Billy]

In the past I haven't been able to measure any difference either way.

I now just measure with the plate on as that is what the sprocket or gear will "feel".

[tbird]

What's wrong with staying with the old set-up. Change out every 40-50 tho miles and your good to go. I changed out 2 sets w/45,000 miles and neither were in bad shape.  With the chain now self polished they should be good until 100,000. Cost is minimal, less than 200 for parts. Both the other options are quite a bit more coin.

[Tattoo]

I changed a set that had 45,000 miles on them last spring, I could'nt believe how good of shape they were in. The customer who was the original owner told me he changes his oil every 3,000 miles since day 1.

[egstandard]

I totally agree tbird

[Billy]

What's wrong with staying with the old set-up. Change out every 40-50 tho miles and your good to go. I changed out 2 sets w/45,000 miles and neither were in bad shape.  With the chain now self polished they should be good until 100,000. Cost is minimal, less than 200 for parts. Both the other options are quite a bit more coin.

Nothing.

Tensioner wear is hit or miss, I haven't been able to find a trend. I've seen'em wore to the metal at 17k miles and seen'em OK @ 35k+. Syn or dino, regular oil changes, nothing adds up.

I think most folks who convert want some peace of mind especially if they ride lots of touring miles.

[Tattoo]

I think most folks who convert want some peace of mind especially if they ride lots of touring miles.

Oh yes, I have seen many vacations go bad from those tensioners. You feel bad when they come in the yard on a flatbed and there many miles from home.

[Sonny S.]

Billy...... EXACTLY !!!!

You can't put a price tag on peace of mind. I remember when the early TC's were having rear cam bearing failure. Every time I rode my 00FXDWG I spent more time listening for noises than enjoying the ride. Rear ball bearing got switched to a roller real quick.

Sonny

[Faast Ed]

Tensioner wear is hit or miss, I haven't been able to find a trend.

I've had the same observations.

[fxrp]

. . . but with the probability that these cranks can & do shift, why would anyone want to install gears into an OEM crank when today we have the roller option?

Absolutely 

[Dynawhite]

So how long do you think it should take a competent mechanic to do the upgrade. I've already been quoted 8-10 hours. Does that sound right?

[Faast Ed]

Winter is upon us. Spend a weekend in your garage and do the upgrade yourself (with the help of HTT).

Unless you are real unfreindly with tools, it can be done at home.

[wrenchspinner3]

8-10 hours seems a bit on the high side. 6 hours seems more reasonable. With a Touring bike, in order to access the cam chest, just to re & re the exhaust system takes time, although if they are lucky, they can get the front header pipe off without removing the entire exhaust system.

[topcat3815]

 I am not claiming to be an expert but I have installed a lot of gear drive set ups and the conversion set ups. I prefer the conversion over the gear drives  because they are much easier to install  no special tools or pressing in bearings and cams or worrying about to loose or to tight gear  lash, they are much more forgiving of crank runout and what I really like they eliminate the outer bearings , just less to worry about.

[flht1550]

On the conversion option without the outer bearings is there cause to think that the cam plate holes might ware out of round by not haveing bearings

[Billy]

On the conversion option without the outer bearings is there cause to think that the cam plate holes might ware out of round by not haveing bearings

The outer bearing surfaces run on a film of pressure fed oil, like the big twins of '36-'99 vintage and the cam, rod and main bearings of most if not all automotive applications. Far superior IMHO.

[JOS]

Just pulled my '01 FLHT apart for a BB and mild head work build and decided I'd better check the tensioners. Wow, good thing I did. Pic 1 is the inner tensioner, motor has 58k and has been on syn oil since about 3k miles. I replaced the tensioners at about 18k on the motor when I went to a 203 cam. Pic 2 shows both of the old tensioners.

Can you retrofit the newer cam tensioners into an "early" TC? Is it just the tensioners or is a new chain required? Can you use a regular set of cams or are different cams used with the newer style roller cam tensioners? Other options?

Sorry, dynawhite, didn't mean to hijack your post...

[Sparks]

I have an 07 Ultra that I just opened up to check my tensioners. It has about 22000 miles on it, the primary tensioner is worn worse then the secondary but since I have it apart I will replace them both.

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