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Oil filter removal

Started by Jim Bronson, April 04, 2020, 04:57:46 PM

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Jim Bronson

I made the mistake of letting the dealer change the oil last time. I started changing it today and found the filter torqued down and not removable using the normal wrench. It just slips and leaves paint residue from the filter on the wrench flats.  :angry: How can I get it broken loose? Is there a secret? Maybe large Channelocks? I guess I could drill a hole and drain the oil before I do surgery.

On a related topic, I had never checked oil level on the dipstick after draining with the pan empty. For some reason I checked it today, and it shows pretty normal on the dipstick. It kinda surprised me, but I assume that's normal.
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.

No Cents

 I drive a screw driver thru the filter to get it to turn when they are stuck on like that.
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

ecir50

try adding a rag between your wrench and filter

Ohio HD

Won't help you today, but this is what I use. They don't slip.

A good tool to have in the tool box.


https://www.rivcoproducts.com/shop/harley-davidson/hd-021/


smoserx1

Large channel lock pliers have worked for me.  The oil on your dipstick is probably residue from the oil before draining.  I have had bad luck with dealers over-tightening filters, especially on cars.

HogMike

I use one of these.
Works every time
:missed:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

kd

KD

Hossamania

April 04, 2020, 06:01:08 PM #7 Last Edit: April 04, 2020, 07:00:04 PM by Hossamania
The oil on the dipstick may be from hitting the clutch cable when putting the dipstick in. I might want to pay more attention. First day of daydrinking during this ordeal.

Quote from: HOGMIKE on April 04, 2020, 05:53:46 PM
I use one of these.
Works every time
:missed:

I use same. Never had a filter yet that I couldn't remove.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

Jim Bronson

The dipstick situation is resolved. It seems that when you drain the primary there's still oil on the engine oil dipstick.  :embarrassed: I can't believe I did that. Maybe time for the old folks home. Oh well, the primary needed changing anyway.

Thanks for the tips on the filter. I don't think have a strap type wrench, but I'll check. I have plenty of time, since we're in for a week of rainy weather.
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.

Heinz

Are you trying to remove the filter on a cold engine? I've had a lot of trouble getting the filter off unless the engine has been run and it's hot.

Jim Bronson

Quote from: Heinz on April 04, 2020, 06:17:25 PM
Are you trying to remove the filter on a cold engine? I've had a lot of trouble getting the filter off unless the engine has been run and it's hot.
It was warm from a ride. I always change fluids after a ride. I was actually wondering whether it would be easier on a cold engine. I guess I'll find out.
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.

Heinz

Quote from: Jim Bronson on April 04, 2020, 06:20:41 PM
Quote from: Heinz on April 04, 2020, 06:17:25 PM
Are you trying to remove the filter on a cold engine? I've had a lot of trouble getting the filter off unless the engine has been run and it's hot.
It was warm from a ride. I always change fluids after a ride. I was actually wondering whether it would be easier on a cold engine. I guess I'll find out.

I use K&N oil filters with the 17mm nut welded on at the end of the filter. On a cold engine I tried to remove the filter and it's stripped the nut. I took the motorcycle for a ride warmed it up and I was able to get it off pretty easily.

JW113

As No Cents said, bang a long screwdriver through it, and push. It will break loose.

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

SixShooter14

Large channelocks do work, provided you can get them in there and squeeze them. The last time I needed them for a filter there was no room to grip the side of the filter, otherwise a pipe wrench would've worked. I had to grab the filter by the end and twist the channelocks. Of course they aren't designed for that and you don't get much leverage. But it worked, I took a 3/4" boxed wrench and hooked it on the handle to give me some side leverage and squeezed the filter enough so that the jaws made notches in the filter to grip.

It was a pita, but a stuck filter is always gonna be.
'97 Road King, Rinehart True Dual, HSR42, 10:1, EVL3010, 2000i

FXDBI

Got a K&P reusable filter in 2007. Never had filter problem since then.  Bob

kd

X2. Plus a Moore's Sensible Filter Relocation kit.  No fuss or mess.
KD

Rockout Rocker Products

Use a cap type filter wrench & drill 3-4 holes equally spaced through the cap wrench & into the filter. Use sheet metal screws to join the wrench to the filter  :up:
www.rockout.biz Stop the top end TAPPING!!

JohnnyCashPan

Old, slow and fat...

dynabagger

Quote from: Jim Bronson on April 04, 2020, 04:57:46 PM
I made the mistake of letting the dealer change the oil last time.

I made the same mistake with an indy. It twisted the oil cooler adapter out of position trying to get it off. Never again. I used a plier style of oil filter wrench and stuck a large screw driver between the handles for leverage. A real PITA.
2001 FXDXT, 117"
2014 KTM 1290 Super Duke R

Dan89flstc

April 05, 2020, 06:10:33 AM #19 Last Edit: April 05, 2020, 06:54:36 AM by Dan89flstc
 Deleted post
US Navy Veteran
A&P Mechanic

Helmwurst

I've never understood while some HD Tech and especially oil change center tech's think the filter needs to be cranked down like that. I usually on anything with a spin on filter, spin it till it touches the base and then add 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Almost always comes off next time with just a little bump of the wrench and never leaks.... Just sayin

Ohio HD

Jim has a 2015 TC touring bike. Most of those posted, including myself know that.

Dan89flstc

April 05, 2020, 06:38:04 AM #22 Last Edit: April 05, 2020, 06:57:22 AM by Dan89flstc
Edited to be civil...

My experience with a Rushmore touring bike, the oil cooler crowds that area pretty tight, channel locks, screw driver, band wrench, none will fit in there...

The screws through the cap filter is the way, or possibly aluminum foil between the wrench and filter in some cases.

The reason for stuck oil filters is failure to lube the gasket. You can tighten the hell out of an oil filter as long as the gasket is lubed, and it will come right off.
US Navy Veteran
A&P Mechanic

Ohio HD

Quote from: Dan89flstc on April 05, 2020, 06:10:33 AM
Lots of suggestions as to what wrench to use, but without knowing WTF is being worked on, there is no way of knowing what fits...


Quote from: Dan89flstc on April 05, 2020, 06:38:04 AM
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 05, 2020, 06:18:14 AM
Jim has a 2015 TC touring bike. Most of those posted, including myself know that.

Well, I didn`t know what he is working on, since I forgot my ESP hat...

Well I`m telling you my experience with a Rushmore touring bike, the oil cooler crowds that area pretty tight, good luck using that band wrench or channel locks, it aint gonna happen.

Chill out. Instead of making a negative post about it, maybe just ask him what he's working on if you really want to help him.

Dan89flstc

 
Quote from: Ohio HD on April 05, 2020, 06:42:36 AM
Chill out. Instead of making a negative post about it, maybe just ask him what he's working on if you really want to help him.

Sorry so cranky...I revised my post.
US Navy Veteran
A&P Mechanic

Ohio HD

Quote from: Dan89flstc on April 05, 2020, 06:53:28 AM


Sorry so cranky...I revised my post.

:up:

We're all getting cabin fever I think.   

HogMike

Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on April 05, 2020, 12:02:19 AM
Use a cap type filter wrench & drill 3-4 holes equally spaced through the cap wrench & into the filter. Use sheet metal screws to join the wrench to the filter  :up:

I have a few different styles of wrenches for removing filters.
Depends on the model bike.
On the new cvo's there's a VR plug in the way along with other various parts . It's a tight fit to get it from the end but doable.
I have a smaller diameter filter on one of my bikes and have the gearwrench to fit that.
Sometimes the nut on k&n filters get stripped and you can't use the cap wrench style to get it off.
I think we have all had issues with them being over tightened at one tome or another.
I agree sometimes that the past mechanics probably used their 1/2" impact driver to install one!
Just my 2cents
:smiled:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

Tollbooth

I use a strap wrench with a wrap of rough emery around the strap. The tighter the wrench gets, the more the sandpaper bites into the filter.

kd

Lot's of great suggestions here.  The best is to move the filter to a better (smarter) position.  There's no rocket science here.  Make it easy and cleaner.  The MOCO could do that easily but would lose out on all of the $ervicing dollar$ they get from frustrated owners that could otherwise do their own oil changes.
KD

Tynker

Quote from: Jim Bronson on April 04, 2020, 06:10:27 PM
The dipstick situation is resolved. It seems that when you drain the primary there's still oil on the engine oil dipstick.  :embarrassed: I can't believe I did that. Maybe time for the old folks home. Oh well, the primary needed changing anyway.

Thanks for the tips on the filter. I don't think have a strap type wrench, but I'll check. I have plenty of time, since we're in for a week of rainy weather.

I have a metal oil filter removable tool(like a large socket) https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-65MM-14Flute-Oil-Filter-Cap-Wrench-Tool-07AAA-PLCA100-Fit-For-HONDA-ACURA/401602232861?hash=item5d815bc21d:g:RUMAAOSwcR9bo8VeI drilled a small hole in it and i put it on the filter,then use a small 1/8" sheet metal screw, through wrench and into the filter. Then using a long extension and ratchet the filter will come off, no problem.
Earl "Tynker" Riviere

Hossamania

Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on April 05, 2020, 12:02:19 AM
Use a cap type filter wrench & drill 3-4 holes equally spaced through the cap wrench & into the filter. Use sheet metal screws to join the wrench to the filter  :up:

I like that idea!
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

BJB

Quote from: kd on April 05, 2020, 07:50:41 AM
Lot's of great suggestions here.  The best is to move the filter to a better (smarter) position.  There's no rocket science here.  Make it easy and cleaner.  The MOCO could do that easily but would lose out on all of the $ervicing dollar$ they get from frustrated owners that could otherwise do their own oil changes.

Absolutely.
I've done this on both my Dyna and Geezer Glide.

Jim Bronson

Quote from: Ohio HD on April 05, 2020, 06:18:14 AM
Jim has a 2015 TC touring bike. Most of those posted, including myself know that.
Thanks Ohio. Specifically a RK. I sometimes forget to list it. Sorry. I punched a hole near the bottom of the filter just to let the oil drain out if it and to avoid a bigger mess later. It doesn't look like channellocks will work, but I'll give it another try later before I punch holes and use the screwdriver method. Thanks all.
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.

rigidthumper

Got a DA sander? One of those 6" sheets over the end of the filter will work, or if not, a 4X4 square of sandpaper, inside my oil filter wrench, usually does it.
Ignorance is bliss, and accuracy expensive. How much of either can you afford?

Jim Bronson

Quote from: rigidthumper on April 05, 2020, 11:24:11 AM
Got a DA sander? One of those 6" sheets over the end of the filter will work, or if not, a 4X4 square of sandpaper, inside my oil filter wrench, usually does it.
I'll try that. Thanks.
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.

smoserx1

This is what I use on my twin cam:

https://www.amazon.com/Plews-70-715-Bi-Directional-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000KKLK1I

However mine is very old and is very well made.  I have read the current ones are not so good.  Don't know, but the design makes the wrench bite into the filter as it turns and the wrench clears the crank position sensor.

PoorUB

Maybe I am more tolerant that others, but I have zero issues with where HD put the filter on the Twin Cam. It is the easiest oil filter to change on the motorcycles I own. You don't have to spend 10 minutes removing and replacing plastic body panels to get to it to change the oil and filter. Could it be easier, sure it could.

On the other hand my BMW the filter is fairly accessible after body panel removal, plus the recommended oil change is 6,000 miles, no primary, just the final drive and that interval is every other oil change, but it is wide open and easy. No three holes to change. Even with the body panel removal my BMW is the quickest motorcycle I have to service.

My Yamaha R1 needs panels removed, then the filter is hiding up and behind the exhaust pipes. Makes the Harley look easy!
I am an adult?? When did that happen, and how do I make it stop?!

Jim Bronson

Finally! I had to punch three sets of holes to break it loose, as it would only turn about 10° per hole pair without hitting something. I think I'll keep the mangled filter as a reminder to NEVER again let the dealer change my oil. Thanks HTT for the support.
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.

JW113

Excellent! Proof that brute force and ignorance can overcome just about anything.
:SM:

-JW
2004 FLHRS   1977 FLH Shovelhead  1992 FLSTC
1945 Indian Chief   1978 XL Bobber

kd

Give it to the dealer's service manager.  :argue:
KD

Hossamania

I would still recommend a steel strap wrench for future changes.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

76shuvlinoff

April 06, 2020, 02:50:38 AM #41 Last Edit: April 06, 2020, 02:54:56 AM by 76shuvlinoff
Quote from: smoserx1 on April 05, 2020, 01:19:58 PM
This is what I use on my twin cam:

https://www.amazon.com/Plews-70-715-Bi-Directional-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000KKLK1I

However mine is very old and is very well made.  I have read the current ones are not so good.  Don't know, but the design makes the wrench bite into the filter as it turns and the wrench clears the crank position sensor.

That's what I have but mine's so old it was made in the US.   I also relocated the filter under the left passenger floorboard on my 12 Ultra EG and never regretted it.    IMHO the nut on the KN is usually useless.

[attach=0,msg1340900]
Critics are men who watch a battle from a high place, then come down and shoot the survivors.
 - Ernest Hemingway

hbkeith

Quote from: Hossamania on April 05, 2020, 09:28:47 AM
Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on April 05, 2020, 12:02:19 AM
Use a cap type filter wrench & drill 3-4 holes equally spaced through the cap wrench & into the filter. Use sheet metal screws to join the wrench to the filter  :up:

I like that idea!
Yes , good idea

kd

76, so many poo poo the remote filter option.  That is until they do it and the wonder why they didn't do it sooner.   :missed:  I am one so I know.  :up:
KD

No Cents

Quote from: kd on April 06, 2020, 05:36:01 AM
76, so many poo poo the remote filter option.  That is until they do it and the wonder why they didn't do it sooner.   :missed:  I am one so I know.  :up:

    :agree:   100%
I have seen no down side to the remote filter...only pluses.   :up:
08 FLHX my grocery getter, 124ci, wfolarry 110" heads, Burns pipe, 158/152 sae

cbumdumb

Of the four bikes I had in the last two years only one has been touched by a dealership . I will know soon enough whether the local dealership tech knew his rear end from a hole in the ground.


Words chosen carefully not to have post changed with potty mouth  :hug:

Rockout Rocker Products

Quote from: 76shuvlinoff on April 06, 2020, 02:50:38 AM
   IMHO the nut on the KN is usually useless.



I agree... the flats on the nut are factory rounded off and tapered to guarantee a slip out of the socket. Only filter I even had to surgically remove was a K&N.... never again.
www.rockout.biz Stop the top end TAPPING!!

Boe Cole

Small point to consider, if the bike has an oil cooler, getting the old filter off after it was on so tight, may cause the cooler to rotate somewhat and cause a leak.  Just something to watch for.
We never really grow up, we only learn how to act in public.

chaos901

I think I have one of just about every option shown here.  Use the Rivco box wrench mostly, sometimes the cap socket, have had to use a screwdriver on a friend's bike.  Have also used some of the filters that have a hex head installed on them for the purpose.
"There are only two truly infinite things, the universe and stupidity." AE

Jim Bronson

Quote from: Rockout Rocker Products on April 06, 2020, 08:46:29 AM
Quote from: 76shuvlinoff on April 06, 2020, 02:50:38 AM
   IMHO the nut on the KN is usually useless.



I agree... the flats on the nut are factory rounded off and tapered to guarantee a slip out of the socket. Only filter I even had to surgically remove was a K&N.... never again.
I've never had a problem removing a K&N filter as long as I use a 17mm socket. I only tighten the filter about 1/2 turn after it seats, and I've never had a leak. Also, the ones I use have small holes in two opposite flats of the nut, so I could use a small allen wrench with a piece of pipe for leverage. I'm hoping I won't ever need to do that. The trick is to not over-tighten.
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.

FXDBI

Overtighten a cold filter on a hot engine its going to be tougher to remove when the engine is hot.  :soda:  Bob

HogMike

Quote from: 76shuvlinoff on April 06, 2020, 02:50:38 AM
Quote from: smoserx1 on April 05, 2020, 01:19:58 PM
This is what I use on my twin cam:

https://www.amazon.com/Plews-70-715-Bi-Directional-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000KKLK1I

However mine is very old and is very well made.  I have read the current ones are not so good.  Don't know, but the design makes the wrench bite into the filter as it turns and the wrench clears the crank position sensor.

That's what I have but mine's so old it was made in the US.   I also relocated the filter under the left passenger floorboard on my 12 Ultra EG and never regretted it.    IMHO the nut on the KN is usually useless.

[attach=0,msg1340900]


Yeah, got one of those in my "collection " also.
People have been giving me these for years and I can't throw them away!
:smiled: :missed:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

Hossamania

If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

smoserx1

I'd say you got just about everything covered there.

kd

Nope, no ratchet and socket for the K&N.   :teeth:
KD

HogMike

Quote from: kd on April 06, 2020, 06:42:58 PM
Nope, no ratchet and socket for the K&N.   :teeth:

Those are in my other roll around
Make sure you use the 6 pt socket, not the 12 pt! :potstir:
HOGMIKE
SoCal

Jim Bronson

^^^^^^ What he said. ^^^^^^^
Going down that long, lonesome highway. Gonna live life my way.

jmorton10

I just use a FLO aluminum housing filter, they have a nut that no socket will slip on.

I always do it myself so it is never over tightened.

~John
HC 124", Dragula, Pingel air shift W/Dyna Shift Minder & onboard compressor, NOS

bump

I have a filter wrench that is a piece of 1/2" square tubing with a strap like a strap wrench but smaller. You put a 1/2" extension on it turn it with a ratchet.  It works the best for me. I always put a coat of oil on seal and only tighten it by hand.

smoserx1

QuoteI always put a coat of oil on seal and only tighten it by hand.
:agree:

Words of wisdom if I ever heard any!

Bagger

Quote from: kd on April 06, 2020, 05:36:01 AM
76, so many poo poo the remote filter option.  That is until they do it and the wonder why they didn't do it sooner.   :missed:  I am one so I know.  :up:

I use this one by 3 Guyz.  Oil filter is relocated to the left front down tube.http://www.3guyz.com/vtwin-motorcycles-topmenu#!/Oil-Filter-Relocation-Kit/p/13913127/category=1575036

Hossamania

I can't get my hand in there for decent leverage, so I use the wrench to tighten it at least a half a turn, maybe more, lubed gasket. They come off with effort, but they come off. I've seen two filters come loose on other bikes, mine will not.
If the government gives you everything you want,
it can take everything you have.

sharkoilfield

If the subject has the word "oil" in it, there's bound to be discussion on Tech Talk
I've been using the K&N with the 17mm nut and a quality 6 point socket since we got our bikes.
Works great.  I like my Form-A Funnel under the filter for the drips.
I can't recall having a dealer oil change but the complaint of overtightening stuff seems common

freddie_ray

Use that 3-jaw one that JohnnyCashPan posted. I had to get one from Manny,Moe and Jack whin my dealer did a oil change. Oh get that filter loose before draining the pan, ask me how I know..  :baby:

freddie_ray