Clutch release ramps

[Nastytls]

 

[No Cents]

  Gary...are you thinking you will gain anything over the Mueller ramps you have in there?
I can't tell you how impressed I was after I put the Mueller ramps in my bike. It made a night and days difference in the clutch lever pull.

[Ohio HD]

Well, I jumped on the Muller bus, just ordered a set, great deal on eBay. It'll be a while before I'm into the transmission on the bike, so one thing I will do is set the ramps with the ball bearings on a rock at work, and measure the low point to the highest point of travel with an indicator. I'll also measure 21° and 18° that I have. I'll have to see how repeatable I can find the maximum travel without running the bearings outside the ramps. This will be only one aspect to their travel. As the actual limit to travel is when the clutch lever hits the grip.

[kd]

And that includes the free play at both ends.

[Ohio HD]

True, but testing travel on the bike I'll take the free play out. That way you see the actual travel capability as closely compared as possible. Harder to accurately recreate the actual free play every time the clutch is adjusted. Even at that, different grips, levers, etc. changes what one bike sees compared to another. 

[FSG]

  Gary...are you thinking you will gain anything over the Mueller ramps you have in there?
I can't tell you how impressed I was after I put the Mueller ramps in my bike. It made a night and days difference in the clutch lever pull.

NO, the Mueller is the best. 

HD changed the ramps and said nothing about it, the dealer/parts ppl here gave me the blank stare when I asked about them, I asked others that had new Softys but found out nothing.  I wanted to know what the difference(s) were if any so  bought a set, which by the way had to come from the US as there were no spares/extras in Oz.

I figure with the reduced spring pressure of the A&S clutch HD decided to increase the ramps from 18 to 19 just so they could get back a little of the plate separation that had been lost when they released the ramps/spring/cable combination in 06.

This set of 19 deg ramps may be a much cheaper option for the guy that is thinking of a Mueller but doesn't have the $$$$.

[No Cents]

  ok...I gotcha.
Your a good man for pulling out a perfectly good set of Mueller ramps to do some testing to see if these new HD ramps can save a person some money. 
  It would be hard for me to pull mine out after experiencing the difference the Mueller ramps actually made.

[klammer76]

I have the Mueller ramps in my SE 6 speed now. Just curious, do you guys have any slight gear clash when shifting after warmed up? I have just a hint. Clutch does not drag at all and neutral is a breeze to find hot or cold. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this. I do have Avon grips but have thought about going back to the stock HD grip to see if I get more travel disengagement.

[kd]

Try holding it for a few seconds before you put it into gear. Also check to be sure you don't have too much oil in the primary and are contaminating the fibers. Just under the clutch hub seems to work for me.

I found the adjustment is best when close to contact (very little free play) on the pushrod.  When it warms up the clearance increases. Too much clearance can be a problem after it warms up. Also, using a return spring between the cable end and the Mueller device inside the transmission ensures a full return on the cable. It is however a little tricky to get that adjustment and takes some patience.

[locker55]

Maybe a stupid question, but after installing the Mueller do you still adjust the clutch as stock?
Or is it set with more, or less turns on the lock nut?
I noted after a handlebar change my cable is not has relaxed as it was with stock bars.
It is a sharp turn into the fairing and the pull is not as smooth as before.
I was going to replace with a longer cable but the sharp turn will still be there.
So same adjustment?
Thanks.

[No Cents]

  the Mueller ramp should have come with instructions.
Mine is backed off 1/8 turn (per instructions) after clutch rod contact is made...and locked down right there.
   klammer76...my tranny is quiet and shifts smooth. No unusual noises.
I do let my bike sit and warm up for a few minutes when I first start it when it's cold. I will pull the clutch lever in 4- 5 times while it's sitting there idling and warming up. When I drop it into 1st gear it slides in gear with no clunks or harsh banging noises.

[locker55]

Thanks No Cents, I run the energy one with the BDL lock up plate.
I also let my bike warm up and pump the clutch so the plates can get wet.
I belive I will go with the Mueller. Or op for the carpal tunnel surgury...lol
Thanks again.

[klammer76]

KD & No Cents,

I don't really have an issue going into 1st from neutral it more up or down shifting if I recall correctly 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th (had to put the bike up in Late Oct here in the NE) so can't recall exactly. 2002 FLH so 1 qt in primary (Formula +).

Ray, do you know how much throw out you have measured off the adjustment set screw on your clutch? I made a new fixture to anchor my magnetic dial base to so I have to check again. I was around .050/.055 last year but didn't have a good base. Will have to wait for it to warm up down the road to check. My clutch is adjusted the same as yours, contact and back off 1/8. Minimal at the cable ferrel also, probably 1/16". Gets more as clutch warms up. Baker heavy duty throw out bearing also. Tranny is very quiet and smooth just feels like very, very  slight clash at times felt through toes when shifting. I also run Mobil 1 75/90 in trans. Has always worked well in 5 speed and didn't have an issue with the SE 6 speed. I may try Mobil 1 75/140 next year in the 6 speed.

What grips do you run on your bike?

[Ohio HD]

Just out of curiosity, do you shift lightly, or do you click the lever upward with some speed? On occasion both of my bikes will have a slight catching feeling if I shift too easy and slow. I don't use a heel shifter, I don't like them. So I up shift with a quick click, and I get clean shifts.

[No Cents]

 I never took the time to measure mine. Once I got it adjusted I pulled the clutch lever in and my pressure plate looked to have plenty of movement. So I just ran with it. Next time I get in there I will measure it now...just out of curiosity.
  I'm the opposite of Brian. Once I'm in 1st gear...I push down on the rear shifter peg with my heel to upshift. I've actually gotten into the habit of shifting down on it all the time. I'll use the front peg and push down on it with the ball of my foot to downshift.
  How Brian and my shifting techniques are similar is I shift with a lot of aggression applied to the shifter peg. I never shift nonchalantly. I've been known to stomp pretty hard on mine. I actually broke the weld on the shifter mechanism inside the tranny housing. I would contribute it breaking to me stomping so hard on it over the years.
  The best stuff I personally have found to work the best in my tranny is the Lucas Oil "synthetic" 75w140 gear lube...I dump the whole bottle in the tranny.  I run one quart of Spectro 85W Gear Saver in my primary. This combo of lubes has worked great for me.

[locker55]

No Cents, what set up are you running, Clutch? spring? lock up? I recall you run a power house of a motor.
I think a 124....right?   Thanks.

[No Cents]

 I run a Bandit clutch with their medium silver springs with 2 shims under each of them in my 124".

[klammer76]

Just out of curiosity, do you shift lightly, or do you click the lever upward with some speed? On occasion both of my bikes will have a slight catching feeling if I shift too easy and slow. I don't use a heel shifter, I don't like them. So I up shift with a quick click, and I get clean shifts.

Bingo. I have thought about that for a while. I will say I probably do shift on the "light" side. I don't like or use a heel shifter either and have it removed. I have tried to force myself to change and use more direct upward force when shifting up. If I recall, it did make a difference when I have done that (I have trouble remembering what I had for lunch yesterday so I will have to see next riding season).

[Ohio HD]

Just out of curiosity, do you shift lightly, or do you click the lever upward with some speed? On occasion both of my bikes will have a slight catching feeling if I shift too easy and slow. I don't use a heel shifter, I don't like them. So I up shift with a quick click, and I get clean shifts.

Bingo. I have thought about that for a while. I will say I probably do shift on the "light" side. I don't like or use a heel shifter either and have it removed. I have tried to force myself to change and use more direct upward force when shifting up. If I recall, it did make a difference when I have done that (I have trouble remembering what I had for lunch yesterday so I will have to see next riding season).

Try adjusting the shift lever down to your foot a little too. That helps make the shift a little more authoritative.

[locker55]

My feeling here about how many riders shift is not hard enough and most riders shift at a low rpm.
I see a lot of riders go through the gears to fast. The Harley likes to be wined out through the gears.
I believe most hot rod'ers has a smoother shift do to winding out and faster shift speed.
The heel shifter makes for a heavier shift with the weight of the leg. I have striped many shift arms and rods.
I bang the hell out of my shifter, but that's me.
But hey everyone rides different....as long as we all get there....right?

[Jim Bronson]

I'm a recent Muller convert, and I'm pleased with the shifting effort and friction zone. I had the dealer install it, and they got it adjusted right where I want it. There's about 1/16" freeplay in the cable, and the engage point starts about an inch from the grip.

[harley_cruiser]

So I have a easy pull like this .
Look at this on eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152337580264
That I put in at least fifteen years ago, is there any advantage in the Muller set up?

[klammer76]

So I have a easy pull like this .
Look at this on eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/152337580264
That I put in at least fifteen years ago, is there any advantage in the Muller set up?

I ran that kit for years (White Bro's Easy Boy) in my 5 speed with 21* ramps. Worked perfect. The reason I switched to the Muller was the Easy Boy won't fit into the SE cover. If it did I would still use it due to the 21* ramp. The Muller works well also.

[locker55]

Cruiser Rocker Lockers, did that make for easy pull? I wonder if it could be used with the Mueller?
pulling a clutch like cutting butter at room temp......lol
All I know is I need to lighten my pull up.

[Hossamania]

Cruiser Rocker Lockers, did that make for easy pull? I wonder if it could be used with the Mueller?
pulling a clutch like cutting butter at room temp......lol
All I know is I need to lighten my pull up.

I have a feeling it would not work well with the Mueller set up, it would require too much clutch handle travel. I didn't like it on my standard set up, as I found it difficult to get it adjusted the way I like my clutch to engage, too much travel on the handle, and hard to get it to completely disengage, and yet not completely engage without the handle being all the way out at the end of travel. Felt like a big "slip" zone on the clutch. I like a tight engagement slip zone, almost "on -off", rather than a large engagement zone.